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Author Derek Cheng

Derek Cheng

Climbing Junkie

Derek Cheng is a journalist and photographer whose work has appeared in publications in several countries, including the US, New Zealand, Australia, Canada, and the UK. Since he discovered climbing about ten years ago, he has worked as little as possible so he can travel widely, chasing rock faces in all corners of the world - from stalactite-blessed limestone in China, to the alpine granite of the Bugaboos and the Sierra Nevada, to quartzite giants in Morocco. His work can be viewed at dirtbagdispatches.com.

Best Rock Climbing Pulleys of 2022

Derek Cheng
Climbing Gear
Ready to venture into big wall adventures, but not sure which is the best rock climbing pulley? Are you figuring out if you want an auto-locking pulley to self-belay or to use for simul-climbing, so that a fall... Read More...
best exercises for rock climbing

The Best Exercises For Rock Climbing

Derek Cheng
Climbing Training
So you've discovered that rock climbing is not only awesome fun, but also a great way to get in shape, and stay in shape. But what are the best exercises for rock climbing, that will not only improve your climb... Read More...
rock climbing knots

A Beginners Guide To Rock Climbing Knots

Derek Cheng
Climbing Fundamentals
There is little in climbing as important as rock climbing knots. They are, after all, what keeps you tied to the rope, which ensures you stay alive if you fall, and gives you the confidence to venture off into ... Read More...
hangboard workout

A Beginners Guide To Hangboard Workouts

Derek Cheng
Climbing Training
So you're trying to progress in your climbing and you've hit a wall and want to get stronger. Training is one of the great progressions for the new generation of climbers who frequent climbing gyms. Instead of ... Read More...
how to crack climb

How To Crack Climb: A Practical Guide

Derek Cheng
Climbing Skills & Techniques
Have you ever looked at an aesthetic crack climb, but had no idea how to crack climb? Where are the holds? Where can you put your feet? But crack climbing is one of the most rewarding and beautiful ways to clim... Read More...
when to replace your climbing rope

When To Replace Your Climbing Rope

Derek Cheng
Climbing Gear
A climber's rope is a lifeline, a vital door that opens the way to many vertical adventures. It is so important that knowing when to replace your climbing rope is a question that every climber eventually encoun... Read More...
sport climbing anchors

A Beginners Guide To Sport Climbing Anchors

Derek Cheng
Climbing Fundamentals
So you're hooked on sport climbing and love the feeling of flying up bolted faces on immaculate rock. But the top of sport climbing routes can be confusing, and making a mistake can be fatal. How do you set up ... Read More...
how to stay safe while climbing

How To Stay Safe While Climbing

Derek Cheng
Climbing Safety
It is known as an extreme sport, so knowing how to stay safe while climbing is essential. Poor communication, distraction while getting ready, and biting off more than you can chew have all led to accidents tha... Read More...
how to conquer the fear of falling

How To Conquer The Fear Of Falling

Derek Cheng
Climbing Training
How to conquer the fear of falling is an important question that confronts all climbers eventually. Being scared of heights is natural, but in the sport of climbing, fear can be paralyzing. It can freeze you, i... Read More...
how to belay

How To Belay: A Practical Guide

Derek Cheng
Climbing Skills & Techniques
How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, beca... Read More...
how to increase finger strength

How To Increase Finger Strength For Climbing

Derek Cheng
Climbing Training
How to increase finger strength is one of the most common questions when it comes to improving your rock climbing. You may have forearms like tree trunks, biceps like mountains, and colossal shoulders, but with... Read More...
how to lead climb

How To Lead Climb: A Practical Guide

Derek Cheng
Climbing Skills & Techniques
Learning how to lead climb is to engage in one of the most intense and rewarding forms of climbing. You are responsible for protecting yourself as you climb higher - a nerve-wracking yet exhilarating prospect. ... Read More...
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