Here at The Adventure Junkies, one of our big goals is to break down sports into easy-to-understand guides. In this article, you’ll learn about the many different types of paddle boards and whether or not these boards would be a perfect fit for you.

1. ALL-AROUND PADDLE BOARD

The all-around paddle board is a great paddle board for beginners and people who are unsure of what specific type of paddle board is best for them. These boards are very stable and are built to handle most conditions — like choppy flat water or very small waves. They tend to be less agile than surf paddle boards and much slower than touring paddle boards.

If you are just learning how to stand up paddle board and looking for a basic but great paddle board, you won’t go wrong with the all-around paddle board. You’ll never know what type of paddling you’ll like the most until you try it.

Many paddlers who thought they’d love surfing, others love racing. Several love racing and some love surfing. An all-around paddle board lets you dabble in each discipline and perfect your paddling strategy without any real downsides.

2. FLATWATER PADDLE BOARD

A flatwater paddle board is somewhat self-explanatory and is best for those who will mostly be paddling in flatwater and wanting to go very long distances. These boards tend to be longer and narrower than an all around board, while not quite as long or narrow as a touring board.

If you’re interested in going on a paddle boarding trip where you camp along the shoreline, flatwater paddle boards could be a great option. They are typically faster than all-around or surf paddle boards and stable enough to accommodate extra gear.

Many flatwater paddle boards have a storage section where you can put a tent, sleeping bag, and other amenities. Or, simply pack your lunch for the day. If you pick a route downwind, you’ll be surprised at how quickly you can cover great distances with a flatwater paddle board.

3. TOURING PADDLE BOARD

Similar to a flatwater paddle board, the touring paddle board is primarily used for long distances or racing and has a long, narrow shape. A touring paddle board cuts through chop with ease and tracks in a fast, straight line.

These boards require a skilled paddler to maneuver due to their length and are much less stable than nearly every other type of board. Touring boards are not recommended for beginners.

With touring paddle boards, beginners tend to adopt a terrible stance and waste time focusing on staying balanced. It’s much better to get another type of paddle board that will help you perfect your stroke and tune in your balancing skills.

4. FISHING PADDLE BOARD

Fishing from a stand up paddle board is a great way to exercise and cast a line. Fishing paddle boards are extremely stable and have plenty of space to store tackle gear.

They often offer more range of movement than a fishing kayak — but beginner paddlers have to make sure they stay balanced. Some fishing stand up paddle boards come with rod holders, a built-in storage area, and even side extenders that increase stability, similar to a catamaran.

The only downside to fishing paddle boards is that they aren’t as agile and tend to paddle much more slowly than other types of paddle boards. Overall, they are a great choice for beginner paddlers who need a board that’s extremely stable.

5. SURF/PERFORMANCE PADDLE BOARD

If you live near the beach or are already an avid surfer, you should look into buying a surf (performance) paddle board. These come in a range of sizes and tend to be slow to paddle, but very easy to maneuver. They are typically more egg shaped — while other paddle boards are longer and narrower.

Surf paddle boards come in a variety of lengths. Beginner paddlers should choose a surf paddle board on the longer end, and take time in perfecting their stroke and balance before paddling into waves. Surf paddle boards are nearly impossible to duck-dive, so you’ll have to learn about the different parts of a wave and how to maneuver around them.

6. YOGA PADDLE BOARD

Many yogis are obsessed with practicing on paddle boards — for good reason! Doing yoga on a paddle board is a great way to improve your balance and stability with each pose. Plus, it adds an extra element of novelty and fun.

Though there are only a few yoga-specific paddle boards on the market, any all-around board or surf board that is very wide and long will work. You’ll want to add a traction pad on top of the board, or else it will be too slippery to grip.

While most paddlers use surf wax as paddle board grip, it won’t be the right fit for yogis. Surf wax will ruin your hair and tends to melt and move when exposed to the sun.

Remember that stability is the most important factor when choosing the right stand up paddle board for yoga, so when in doubt, size up. If this sounds exciting, check out Yoga Journal’s 10 poses for beginners.

7. INFLATABLE STAND UP PADDLE BOARDS

Inflatable stand up paddle boards are a great choice for beginner paddlers and those limited on space. To use these boards, you simply inflate them with a pump like you would an air mattress.

Now, instead of needing stand up paddle board roof racks, a massive vehicle, or a trailer, you can usually fit an inflatable stand up paddle board in any sized vehicle. They can also be taken on trips or flights much more easily.

Inflatable stand up paddle boards typically cater to beginner paddlers or those wanting an all-around shape and style paddle board. They are great for people living in apartments, families, those with small cars, and are typically much less expensive than a standard epoxy/hard paddle board.

The post A Beginners Guide To Types of Paddle Boards appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Whether you have a fishing-specific kayak or simple sit-on-top, there are tons of modifications available to make your day on the water more productive. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we strive to point you in the right direction as you shop for outdoor gear. In this guide, we aim to tell you everything you need to know about how to rig a kayak for fishing.

CHOOSE YOUR KAYAK

While there are many types of kayaks available, let’s pretend there are only two for the purpose of this guide, namely, fishing specific kayaks and other (general) kayaks.

A fishing-specific kayak is built to incorporate the storage of fishing gear. It is equipped with rod holders and meets additional stability requirements. If you don’t have or don’t intend to buy a fishing kayak, we can help you add fishing modifications to another kayak.

We must stress the importance of using a sit-on-top kayak though. Kayak fishing introduces external forces and a higher risk of capsizing. Should that happen, sit-in kayaks are bound to fill with water and sink. Meanwhile, sit-on-top kayaks will not sink and are easy to re-enter.

KAYAK FISHING RIGGING

We’ll run you through the items you’ll need to rig your kayak for fishing. In most cases, you’ll have the option to purchase a solution or create your own with a DIY guide

GET A FISHING CRATE

The Inuit, Aleut and Yupik are the native Arctic people thought to be the first to use kayaks. They stretched animal skins over handmade frames of wood or whale bones and used their boats for travel and hunting as far back as 4,000 years ago.

If we fast forward to modern times, we see that recreational kayaks became popular worldwide long before the innovation of fishing kayaks.

To accommodate for insufficient design features, the fishermen got creative and the kayak fishing crate was born. The basic idea is to take a milk crate and attach it securely in the tank well of your kayak, which is the triangular/trapezoidal storage area directly behind the seat in a sit-on-top kayak.

PVC pipes are attached on the back of the crate to be used as rod holders. You can make your own kayak crate or simply purchase a kit. The YakGear Kayak Angler Kit will come with everything you need including installation directions and some accessories.

Many sit-on-top kayaks today are made with slide tracks in the tank well to hold fishing crates, as seen in the Perception Pescador.

CHOOSE YOUR FISH FINDER

Don’t leave shore without a kayak fish finder. Otherwise, you may end up spending half of your day in the wrong spot, just… hoping.

A great fish finder, such as the Garmin Striker 4, will save you from wasting time and can read up to 1600 ft below your kayak. Some fish finders are smartphone enabled, allowing you to place the device in the water and read the results on your phone.

For onboard systems, you’ll also need a fish finder mount. Some opt for a transducer deployment system that allows you to move the fish finder out of your main working space on a swing-arm.

BRING AN ANCHOR TROLLEY

When your fish finder reads a large school below your kayak, you might want to park it. Unfortunately, staying put in a kayak is more complicated than it may seem.

First, check out your options for the best kayak anchors. Next, you should have an anchor trolley which is an adjustable line that acts as an extension of the anchor. This allows you to change the angle the kayak is sitting in relation to the anchor.

Wind and waves can push your kayak into sub-prime positions, inhibiting your ability to cast where needed and putting your kayak at risk of capsizing. Anchor trolleys can be purchased or easily made at home with a short list of inexpensive materials.

Lucky for you, YakGear made an informative video that shows how to install an anchor trolley. The video below shows how to use an anchor trolley while fishing.

VIDEO: HOW TO ANCHOR YOUR KAYAK USING A TROLLEY SYSTEM

START FISHING

LURES

Nothing great, except perhaps the cosmos, ever came from chaos. We know from experience that things can get messy quickly without the proper means to organize lures.

A good tackle box or tackle bag is a must-have on the water. Some allow you to organize lures by sets in individual plastic cases like you would in a filing cabinet. Be sure to arrange the cases so the most used lures are immediately accessible on top or front part of the box or bag.

BAIT

If you intend to use live bait, look for a fishing kayak that has an onboard live well. If your kayak does not include a live well, you can make your own or purchase one online.

If DIY projects aren’t your thing, we recommend the Hobie Kayak Live Well. Bait buckets can be used as well, but your bait will not stay alive as long without aerated water. Hang the bucket overboard when you can.

If you intend to purchase dead bait and cut it into pieces, you’ll need a bait board which is essentially a mountable cutting board platform with some extra bells and whistles.

HANG ON TIGHT

Once you catch a fish, we recommend using a fish grip to gently clasp its mouth while you remove the hook with a dehooker. Look for a grip that doubles as a scale. That way, you can simultaneously hold and weigh the fish while you snap a photo to show your friends. Remember, social media now demands pictures or it didn’t happen.

NOISE-DEADENING FOAM

Fish can feel minute vibrations through their skin. If you’ve ever been fishing with a friend that unintentionally scares away any fish within 50 feet with their lunchtime cooler-slam, you know why staying quiet is key.

A number of manufacturers, such as SeaDek, sell foam pads to fit a variety of kayak brands. These stick-on pads reduce unwanted noise and add traction to your kayak deck.

PROPULSION

MOTOR

Let’s face it. You only have two hands.

Wouldn’t it be nice to use those hands for fishing instead of paddling? Typically, kayaks are not designed to accommodate trolling motors but luckily, innovation never fails to come through.

The 12-V battery-powered Skimmer Kayak Motor provides 17 lbs of thrust for kayaks 12 ft and under. The Skimmer II provides 24 lbs of thrust for kayaks over 12 ft. Quietly cruise at up to 2-6 mph without missing a beat.

PEDAL

Another great option is an onboard pedal system like the MirageDrive 180 by Hobie. This revolutionary design weighs only 8 lbs and allows full-power forward and reverse movement.

It is driven by two under-kayak fins attached to foot pedals in your kayak. The after-market system is removable, but Hobie also sells pedal kayaks with the drive built-in.

SECURE YOUR BELONGINGS

As long as gravity is still in effect, we highly recommend tethering anything remotely important to your kayak with a gear leash. This includes fishing poles, electronics, tools and gear bags. You can buy gear leashes online or make your own for much less.

Your trusty paddle can also be secured with a gear leash if you like, but know that they do float on water. What’s more important is a paddle clip, also known as a paddle holder or paddle park. It’s useful for securing your paddle to the side of your kayak, instead of resting it on your lap while you fish.

SAFETY

PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICE

As always, the most important piece of safety equipment is your personal flotation device (PFD). Check out our guide on the best kayak fishing PFDs. A vest that not only keeps you afloat but provides extra storage or some lash tabs will go a long way to keep your kayak free of clutter.

LIGHTS

Many states require stern lights on all vessels. As a kayaker, you will sit very low in the water compared to boats so this is an especially important point.

West Marine offers a great selection but if you are looking for a quick weekend DIY project, you can build a stern light for under $2. For added visibility and peace of mind, feel free to attach a few battery-powered LEDs to the bow and both sides of your kayak.

FOR GOOD MEASURE

Remember to pack all the fishing tools you may need (pliers, pocket knife, nail clippers, etc.), a marine VHF radio, air horn, sunscreen, bug spray, a wide-brimmed hat and polarized sunglasses. Make a list and double check it.

The post How To Rig A Fishing Kayak – A Beginners Guide appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, we want to inspire you to try new activities or simply pursue the sports you already love to do. This article will cover exactly why paddle boarding is healthy for your overall well-being.

1. BALANCE

The more you practice paddle boarding, the better your balance will be both on and off the water. Paddle boarding develops your sense of stability, which helps in daily life as well as in other sports that require you to stay balanced like yoga or surfing.

As you paddle board more often and become more stable, you’ll be able to use your paddle board to surf waves or paddle long distances.

2. CORE STRENGTH

Did you know that with the right paddle technique, your core is doing most of the work — instead of your arms? Every time you complete a stroke, your abdominal muscles contract like a mini-crunch.

Because of this, paddle boarding develops your core in a way that few other sports can. Stronger core muscles will help you in all activities, increasing your endurance and changing the way your body looks.

3. ARM STRENGTH

Though most of your paddling is done through your core, your upper arms and shoulders also play a major role in paddle boarding. Each session will build your upper body strength overall, and soon you’ll be able to paddle for hours at a time without feeling fatigue.

Best of all, the strength you gain through paddle boarding will also help with sports like swimming, kayaking, and surfing. This makes paddle boarding a great supplemental workout for other activities that rely heavily on arm strength.

While carrying the paddle board is often seen as a major con of the sport, just think of the biceps you’re building as you lug it down to the shoreline.

4. LEG STRENGTH

Your legs are constantly adjusting to the rocking of your board as you paddle — bending and straightening constantly like counterweights to an unstable board. Even paddling through flat water requires your legs to stabilize as you glide through the water. These movements not only improve your balance but also strengthen your legs.

5. MENTAL CLARITY

When you’re paddling over the lake or the sea, you might find that your daily stress and worries are left ashore. While paddle boarding, your brain is focuses on the physical movements and environment of paddle boarding, leading to mental clarity and a chance to disconnect from the world of social media, work, and other everyday details.

If you’re mulling over an important decision, you might find it helpful to go for a paddle and see if the disconnect from land helps you arrive at the right choice.

6. STRESS REDUCTION

Physical activity in general does wonders for reducing stress, which is one of the most damaging contributors to our health. According to Healthline, stress can have negative effects ranging from mental health issues to triggering disease to premature aging. Exercise, especially when done in nature, is proven to reduce stress.

7. COMMUNITY

Paddle boarding is one of the fastest growing sports in the world, with thousands of people heading out to the water with their boards in tow. There are tons of websites, clubs, and communities where you can make friends and go out on paddle boarding excursions with like-minded people.

Who knows? You might even meet your future best friend or life partner through the sport!

Paddle boarders also love to swap gear and try out new rigs — so within this community, you’ll also be able to develop a sense of what type of paddle boards and paddles are right for you.

8. HEART HEALTH

Low impact exercises like paddle boarding do wonders for heart health. Paddling even just fifteen minutes per day will improve your cardiovascular system. You can cater your paddle boarding sessions to be as easy or challenging as you want. The faster you paddle, the harder your heart pumps to get moving.

9. VITAMIN D INTAKE

If you don’t get enough exposure to the sun, you might become deficient in vitamin D. Those who don’t have a healthy amount of vitamin D in their system might suffer from fatigue, depression, bone weakness, chronic pain and more, according to Prevention Magazine.

When you’re paddle boarding in the sunshine, you’ll be getting your daily dose of vitamin D which also happens to be one of the hardest vitamins to get from food alone.

10. NAVIGATION

The more you paddle board, the better you’ll get at navigating through water conditions of all types. Experienced stand up paddlers often go on tours where they explore rivers and coastlines that are only accessible with a vessel like paddle boards, kayaks or other boats.

Paddle boarding will help you become a skilled explorer and navigator who can venture to places that few have gone before. If you’re wanting some inspiration on where to paddle, why not check out our top paddling destinations around the world?

11. FLEXIBILITY

Every movement in paddle boarding increases your flexibility throughout the body, especially in challenging conditions. Paddle boarders are forced to adapt to different scenarios, and their bodies along with it.

Actions like going from your belly to your feet condition your body to be flexible — as do all the shoulder rotations when you paddle.

12. VERSATILITY

If you get bored easily or love to try new things, stand up paddle boarding is the perfect sport for you. Once you master the basics of paddle boarding, you’ll be able to try out everything from surfing massive waves to racing through flat water with a paddle board.

You can hop from one type of paddle board to the next, from a pond to the ocean or from a 9’0″-long board to a whopping 12’0″-long touring board. There is so many variations within the sport, so it’s unlikely that you’ll ever tire of doing it.

The post Top 12 Benefits of Paddle Boarding appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, we’re obsessed with knowing the best strategies for stand up paddle boarding, and we would love to share these tips with you. In this guide, you’ll not only learn how to paddle with the right SUP technique but we’ll also share some guidelines on how to correct a few common mistakes you might already be making.

SELECT THE RIGHT SETUP

If you select a stand up paddle board and paddle that doesn’t match your ability, such as when a board is too short or too narrow or when a paddle that is too long, you won’t be able to focus on perfecting your SUP technique. Once you’ve mastered the SUP technique and gained balance, you’ll be able to advance into a more specialty board like a surf SUP or a touring SUP.

In general, beginners should choose a stand up paddle board that is over 10 feet long and 30 inches wide. Your paddle should be about eight to 10″ longer than your height.

POSTURE AND STANCE

The stance for paddle boarding is very different from traditional surfing. When you stand on the board, you need to place your feet parallel with one another and the long edge of the board. Your feet should be firmly placed in the middle of the board, a little further than hip distance apart.

Distribute your weight evenly onto your feet. Beginners often make the mistake of standing too far back or placing their feet perpendicular to the board, like a surfer.

Your legs should have a slight bend in the knee to help stabilize yourself and absorb the shock of any chop coming through.

Keep your back straight and head looking forward, onto the horizon. Hunching forward will destabilize you and can lead to paddling bad habits.

If you feel unsteady, try bending your knees more, inching towards the middle of the board, or spreading your feet apart a little more. It’s normal for your knees to bend and straighten as you move through the water — think of them as your counterweights for stabilization. Your core should be engaged and strong the entire time.

PADDLE STROKE

There are four basic steps to a proper paddle stroke. Mastering each step is the best thing you can do to increase your SUP technique and ability drastically, though the correct stroke might feel unnatural at first. Many beginner stand up paddle boarders tend to paddle their board without the full range of arm motion.

STEP 1: CATCH PHASE

The first thing you want to do is bring your paddle forward and bury the entire blade into the water. You want the most efficient stroke possible, and having the full surface of the paddle blade in the water helps make that happen. Though it might feel intuitive to extend your paddle as far forward as possible, short and quick strokes are more effective.

STEP 2: POWER PHASE

This paddle stroke phase is where great SUP technique makes a massive difference in how well you are paddle boarding. The most common mistake that beginners make is that they paddle using their arms, not their core. In the power phase, you’ll have one arm on the handle of the board, and your other arm about midway down the paddle.

Pull through the water with your core. Both arms should be straight, with almost no bend in the elbow as you complete the stroke. Your bottom arm should stay straight.

Imagine that you are pulling the board towards the paddle, not the paddle to the board. The shoulders and core are rotating to bring you forward, utilizing your back and core (which have more strength) than solely your arms.

STEP 3: EXIT PHASE

Once the paddle reaches your feet and your chest is facing the front of the board, lift the paddle out of the water. Again, it might seem that long, gliding strokes are most effective for going straight and fast on the paddle board but they’re not.

When you lift the paddle out of the water, pull your bottom hand out to the side while keeping your top hand in place. Think of the paddle as a pendulum with the top of the paddle stationary (it will move down slightly) with the bottom of the paddle doing most of the movement as it exits out of the water.

STEP 4: RECOVERY PHASE

On your recovery phase, rotate the paddle back to the front of your body to complete the stroke. You’ll still want your core engaged and legs bent slightly while in this phase as a solid base.

3 COMMON BEGINNER MISTAKES

1. PADDLING DOWNWIND AT FIRST

Stand up paddling is easy when you have the wind at your back. You could go for miles without even noticing in strong winds. However, when it’s time to turn back, you’ll suddenly be faced with a massive challenge and less strength than you’d started with.

If there is any wind while you’re paddling, paddle into the wind first and let the wind take you back on your return. Stand up paddlers have died from making this beginner’s mistake.

You can read more about these accidents in a safety advisory against offshore winds in the Standup Journal. If you get fatigued or an accident happens, you’ll be blown back to shore safely.

2. LOOKING AT YOUR FEET

We often tend to stare at our feet or the tip of the board when we feel unbalanced in an attempt to find a fixed point on the water. However, this actually causes us to lose balance or puts our body in a strange position where it can’t complete a proper paddle stroke.

Instead, look out towards the horizon. Our board tends to follow wherever our eyes look.

3. HOLDING THE PADDLE INCORRECTLY

Most stand up paddles are shaped like a slight scoop, and it might seem to make sense to paddle with the scoop facing us — like bringing a spoon forward. However, the paddle is meant to be held with the bend pointing towards us, a more hydrodynamic shape.

According to Paddling.com, holding a paddle incorrectly can cause it to flutter and is “extremely fatiguing to the arms and shoulders, even to the point of injury or tendinitis.”

The post SUP Techniques – A Beginners Guide appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Stand up paddle boarding is a great way to build muscle, improve your balance, and see things that are only accessible to swimmers or paddlers. One of our goals here at The Adventure Junkies is to share our favorite activities with our readers.

Our guide to stand up paddle boarding will include how to find the right board, how to stand and hold the paddle, proper paddling technique and more.

SUP GEAR QUESTIONS

WHAT TYPE OF STAND UP PADDLE BOARD SHOULD I GET?

The type of stand up paddle board that you choose is dependent on the conditions you’ll usually be in, your skill level, your budget and storage space. The great news is that there is a paddle board out there sure to be perfect for you.

CONSIDER THE SIZE

The best stand up paddle board for beginners tends to be wide and long. Though wider and longer boards tend to be slower to paddle, they are extremely stable and can handle choppy water quite easily.

When in doubt, opt for a longer and wider stand up paddle board that is at least 10 feet long and 30 inches wide. Larger people might want to choose a paddle board that’s even bigger.

If you’re limited on space (both at home and transporting your board), consider getting an inflatable stand up paddle board.

These work just as well as traditional paddle boards but can roll up into the size of a sleeping bag when deflated. They also tend to be lighter and more durable than paddle boards made from epoxy and fiberglass.

Isle Surf and SUP has a helpful resource chart that can narrow down the board size to match your height, weight, and skill.

THINK ABOUT THE SHAPE

Not all paddle boards are shaped the same way, despite being similar lengths. Typically, all-around stand up paddle boards are the best boards for beginners. This will let you progress from beginner to advanced on a single board.

Boards created for yoga and fishing are also more stable than touring or race boards of a similar length because yoga and fishing boards tend to be wider.

A narrow board is more unstable, and harder for beginners to balance on. This is why it’s essential to consider the shape and width before buying your stand up paddle board.

COMPARE MATERIALS

When you’re learning how to stand up paddle board, it’s common to bump into things and fall overboard. It takes some time to figure out how to navigate and paddle without hitting the paddle against your board.

Due to this, you might want to buy a soft-top foam paddle board or durable inflatable paddle board before moving onto a paddle board made from fragile epoxy.

For a more in-depth look at the different paddle boards on the market, check out our guide on how to choose the best stand up paddle board.

WHAT’S THE BEST PADDLE FOR ME?

Beginners should choose a paddle that is lightweight and comfortable to grip. You’ll need to invest in a paddle that is roughly 6 to 10 inches longer than your height. Beginners should buy an adjustable paddle rather than a fixed one to find the length that works best for them.

If your paddle doesn’t float, it’s worth attaching a foam floatie so that you don’t lose it when you fall.

Want to learn more about how to choose a SUP paddles and see the best models of the year? Check out our guide, SUP Paddles 101. 

SUP TECHNIQUE QUESTIONS

HOW SHOULD I GET ON MY PADDLE BOARD?

You’ll first want to walk your paddle board into knee-deep water and place your paddle near the nose (front) of the board so that it is perpendicular to the long side of the board. Then, place one knee onto the board near the handle hold.

Once that’s there, you can place the other knee so that you’re now kneeling on the board in a wide, stable position. Place your hands onto the board with the paddle underneath the palms.

Slowly move into a crouch while bringing your paddle up with you. For more stability, keep your knees slightly bent while straightening your back.

WHAT SHOULD MY STANCE LOOK LIKE?

Unlike surfing, you’ll want to stand on your board facing straight ahead rather than to the side. Your feet should be about shoulder-width apart. To adjust, slowly inch your toes forward and backward or do a tiny hop. Try not to take steps as this act will make the board unstable.

Always keep your knees slightly bent for more stability and use them to absorb any chop that comes through.

WHAT’S THE BEST STROKE?

Stand up paddles are typically bent slightly at the blade, looking like a flat scoop. It can be counter-intuitive, but the proper way to hold a stand up paddle is to have the bend facing the rear of the board. It should not look like you are scooping the water. You might find the paddle easier to grip with a sturdy pair of paddling gloves.

A stand up paddle stroke relies on your core muscles — not your arms — to maneuver. Place one arm on the handle and one on the shaft so that you form a near-perfect triangle with equal sides. Bring the paddle ahead and twist so that your paddle is buried in the water.

Move the paddle back towards your feet and repeat the stroke. While stroking, keep your arms straight until the stroke is complete. You should feel your core working, not your arms.

To turn, paddle solely on one side, paddle backward, or dig the paddle into the water to use it as a pivot point. The more you practice, the better you’ll get.

If you feel unbalanced, try paddling faster to gain momentum and stability.

SUP SAFETY QUESTIONS 

IS STAND UP PADDLING A SAFE SPORT?

Stand up paddling is a relatively safe sport as long as you paddle within your limits. Never paddle when there’s strong offshore winds, currents, or waves beyond your ability level. 

DO I NEED A LEASH?

Always have a leash so that you can return to your board and prevent it from hitting others.

According to an article on stand up paddle boarding safety and leashes, “If you fall in and there is wind, current or even a breeze on a lake, river or in the ocean, your board will catch the wind and literally sail away from you. Chasing your board, especially with a paddle in your hand, is a recipe for exhaustion.”

WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I FALL?

When you fall, jump away from your board. Emerge from the water slowly with your arms shielding your head just in case the board has drifted above you.

Everybody falls, so it’s important to practice falling safely. Always paddle in deep water away from rocks or hard surfaces. If you’re coming into shallow water, it’s best to paddle on your knees. Keep a vast distance between you and other paddlers. Remember, everyone needs room to fall and move.

WHAT SHOULD I DO IF THE WEATHER TURNS BAD?

Sometimes, wind and chop can pick up without warning. Though it might seem more efficient to hold your standing stance and paddle against the wind, it’s actually better to lay down with the paddle underneath your chest and paddle it like a surfboard.

SHOULD I WEAR A LIFE JACKET?

Of course, it’s always best to paddle with a personal flotation device (PFD) as a backup — just in case you lose your board.

The post How To Stand Up Paddle Board – FAQ appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Here at the Adventure Junkies, we want to keep you safe on the slopes so you can get the most out of your day. While skiing and snowboarding are great ways to get some fresh air and adrenaline, these are extreme sports and should only be tackled by those who understand the risks. Read on for tips on how to prevent some of the most common skiing and snowboarding injuries.

TIPS TO AVOID SNOW SPORTS INJURIES

DEVELOP GOOD HABITS

There are many ways to protect yourself from injury out on the slopes. An easy one is to wear a helmet, which drastically reduces your chance of a head injury. Wrist and elbow guards, knee pads, ankle and knee braces can also help protect these body parts especially in terrain parks.

It is equally important to keep the rest of your equipment in good condition. Skis and snowboards should be well-maintained and properly waxed with sharp edges. Boots, helmet and ski bindings should be correctly fitted and checked as suitable for the terrain. Be informed about how to use your equipment appropriately to reduce risk.

Take care of yourself. Stay hydrated and well-fed and wear weather-appropriate clothing, whether that means sunglasses and sunscreen for sunny days or waterproof layers and goggles for cold days. Skiers and snowboarders can be at risk of sunburns, heat stroke, dehydration, hypothermia, frostbite and sometimes even altitude sickness. Take breaks every few hours and keep in mind that most injuries occur after lunch or near the end of the day, when fatigue affects your form and your decision-making.

If you are just starting to ski or snowboard, it’s a great idea to start out with lessons. Instructors can teach you safe skiing techniques and gradually move you onto more difficult terrain when appropriate. Additionally, with lessons you will learn good habits that will benefit you for the rest of your skiing or snowboarding career.

Be aware of skiing etiquette and responsibility, such as outlined in the Alpine Responsibility Code. Stay in control and be able to stop if needed, and exercise extra caution in terrain parks, glades, deep powder and the backcountry. Substance abuse, including alcohol, can impair your judgment and cause accidents.

GET FIT

Like all extreme sports, skiing and snowboarding require a high level of fitness. You can put yourself in a better position if you keep up your strength and stamina during the offseason. Some good ways to increase your cardio are cycling, swimming, stair training or running.

Strengthen the muscles you use most in skiing and snowboarding such as your quads, glutes, hip muscles, back, neck and core. Maintain your flexibility with regular stretches of all these muscles.

In the morning, stretch your major muscle areas and warm up however works best for you. It may be with a five-minute walk or light jog in the parking lot. Take it easy in the first few runs.

By the end of the day, you should cool down by doing a few easy runs or walking around for 10 minutes. Drink lots of water and stretch while they are still warm to reduce stiff muscles through lactic acid buildup.

LEARN HOW TO FALL

It’s pretty much a sure bet that everyone will fall at some point. If you feel yourself spinning out of control, sometimes it’s smarter to fall on purpose before you get yourself into even bigger trouble.

We tend to fling our arms out to break a fall, but the best you can actually do is to try to roll with the fall and minimize the impact on your body.

COMMON SKI AND SNOWBOARDING INJURIES

Know the risks. Extreme sports are notorious for causing broken bones all over the body. However, skiers are especially prone to knee and thumb injuries. Meanwhile, snowboarders are more vulnerable to ankle and upper-body injuries in the wrist, elbow and shoulder.

Everybody can get a head injury if they’re not wearing a helmet. Below are some of the typical injuries and how to avoid them.

HEAD

Head injuries are both the scariest and easiest to prevent. Snowboarders are more likely to suffer injuries to the head because of their stance on the board and the fixed bindings.

It’s important to consider that even if you believe you are skilled enough not to fall on your head, it’s always possible that someone else can collide with you on the slope. A head injury can take the form of anything from a bruise to a concussion and even death. The best way to protect your head is to wear a helmet.

WRIST, ELBOW AND SHOULDER

Upper-body injuries happen especially often to snowboarders. Their feet are fixed to their bindings, meaning any contortion in a fall will mostly take their toll on the upper body.

Beginners in particular often try to break a fall by flinging their arms out. The harsh landing can reverberate through the arm and cause a sprained or fractured wrist, a bruised or dislocated elbow and a host of shoulder injuries.

Wrist injuries are one of the most typical snowboarding injuries, but they can happen to skiers as well. A harsh landing after a fall can also cause a pulled shoulder ligament, a dislocated shoulder, a cartilage tear, a fracture, a shoulder separation, a rotator cuff injury or sometimes even a broken collarbone.

Wrist and elbow injuries can be avoided by wearing wrist and elbow guards or snowboard gloves with built-in wrist braces. When doing a big jump on your snowboard, try to keep your arms close to your body instead of flailing them around.

THUMB

A common skiing injury is skier’s thumb, which refers to a sprained or torn ulnar collateral ligament (UCL). Skier’s thumb accounts for about one out of 10 skiing injuries and is caused by landing on an outstretched hand while holding ski poles, forcing the thumb to bend sharply backward.

The risk of skier’s thumb can be greatly minimized by holding your poles properly. If you have straps, put your hand through a strap and let the pole dangle loosely from your wrist.

Then, grasp the ski pole with your thumb over, not through, the strap. This way, the pole will come off your hand more easily instead of trapping your thumb when you fall.

Some people prefer to ski with poles that have finger-groove grips instead of straps or a closed grip. Others swear by Leki trigger straps, which have a safety release allowing the straps to come out in case of impact, kind of like your ski boot bindings. Whatever system you use, it’s also good practice to try to let go of your poles if you can when you’re falling.

ANKLE

With their soft boots, snowboarders are vulnerable to sprained ankles and fractures to the talus bone, the latter often referred to as “snowboarder’s ankle.” Snowboarders with softer boots and snowboarders who do lots of tricks and jumps are more likely to get snowboarder’s ankle.

Snowboarder’s ankle can be difficult to spot on x-ray scans, so it’s important to be suspicious if your sprained ankle hurts for longer than a week, as it might indicate your ankle is actually fractured. The condition can lead to long-term damage so it’s crucial that you treat it properly.

It’s a trade-off when deciding whether to protect your knee or your ankle. If you go for harder boots, your ankles will sit more securely, but your knees will be more likely to incur injuries from twisting. Other ways to prevent ankle injuries include improving your balance and proprioception with a wobble board, or wearing an ankle brace, sports insoles or ankle tape while you ride.

KNEE

Knee injuries are very common in skiing. Ski boots lately have focused on protecting the ankle and shin, which increases the risk that the impact from a fall will transfer to the knee. When bindings don’t release in a fall, the top of the leg can bend while the bottom remains immobile.

This twists the knee and can cause a sprained knee or the infamous torn ACL (anterior cruciate ligament) or MCL (medial collateral ligament). Injuries are also possible to the medial meniscus.

While snowboarders less frequently experience knee injuries, these can still arise when getting on or off the chairlift, since only one foot is strapped into the board. Snowboarders with hard boots benefit from protected ankles, but they have a higher chance of twisting their knees.

To reduce your chance of suffering a knee injury, always make sure your ski bindings are properly adjusted according to your skill level. Expert skiers need tighter bindings to cope with their more aggressive skiing style, but beginner to intermediate skiers will benefit more from bindings that release upon impact.

If possible, try to fall to the side instead of backwards or forwards. This is less traumatic for your knees. Be cautious when making sharp turns. Strengthening your quad muscles (e.g. with wall sits, stair training, lunges or squats) and wearing a knee brace can also help defend against knee injuries.

SPINE

While not as common as some other skiing and snowboarding injuries, damage to the spine can cause paralysis or death, so it’s definitely worth avoiding. Spine injuries in skiing and snowboarding can occur as a result of jamming your spine, or having your neck suddenly bent too far backwards or forwards.

This happens in collisions with objects or other skiers and snowboarders, when you land hard on your backside or when you land badly off a jump. Attempting jumps or tricks that are beyond you or going super fast are both good ways to incur a spine injury, so always stay within your skill level and keep a safe speed.

A less serious injury is a bruised tailbone, a common complaint in snowboarding because of the way snowboarders naturally fall with both feet strapped in. Beginner snowboarders or people who want to attempt a lot of tricks can wear padding to protect their tailbones.

WHIPLASH

Whiplash occurs often in snowboarding falls. Strengthening your core and your neck muscles and stretching before a day on the hill are two of the best ways to minimize whiplash. It’s important to follow up on whiplash if it lasts longer than a few days, as it can cause chronic problems down the line.

BE SMART

Skiing and snowboarding are extreme sports practiced in the great outdoors. We can’t always anticipate what Mother Nature is going to throw at us. Know how to evaluate the terrain and conditions before setting out. Remember to always do an easy warm-up run to assess the snow.

Beware of variable conditions such as poor visibility or flat light, intermittent weather or poor snow quality. Ride with a partner and stick to runs suited to your ability level.

If you do experience an injury while skiing or snowboarding, be sure to follow up on it. Many injuries can be treated by a qualified healthcare practitioner, but it’s up to you to get it checked out before it develops into something more chronic.

The post How To Prevent Ski and Snowboarding Injuries appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Sailboats are made for the ocean and its weather. That’s why all it takes is learning how to sail to be safe. When yachts get into trouble, it’s often the crew at fault rather than a flaw in the boat! Understanding how wind strength and sail plan affects your sailboat will give you the tools to fearlessly go on an adventure.

WHAT IS REEFING?

Reefing is simply making a sail smaller. This is usually done in response to the increasing wind. Reefing down a sail allows you to continue sailing without being overpowered. This keeps the boat under control and often makes the journey more comfortable.

A sail that is too large for the wind conditions could be dangerous as it provides too much resistance for the boat. Putting off reefing, especially for a squall or very strong winds, is a bad idea. It can result in the sail ripping, the boat heeling over dangerously or even the mast breaking.

Reefing can seem overwhelming but in reality, it’s a fairly simple action. Once you’ve reefed, even strong winds will seem considerably more manageable and the conditions will be far less daunting.

DO YOU NEED TO REEF?

When you need to reef will depend on the boat you’re sailing. Some boats will need to be reefed considerably earlier than others. Lightweight yachts often need reefing much earlier than heavy, more traditional yachts.

If your sailboat has a heavy, full keel, chances are you’ll be able to hold full sail for longer than a fin-keeled lightweight cruiser. In increasing winds and relatively safe waters or conditions – small waves, daylight – you can wait until the boat feels like she’s starting to strain before reefing.

In more difficult conditions – large waves, twilight or dark – you will want to reef in anticipation.

Unless you are continuing a particular course, you may not need to reef at all. If you need to turn downwind, for instance, you can turn sooner and keep a full sail.

Often, you can reef just the foresail to reduce pressure while keeping the center of effort further aft for better performance (unless you’re a catamaran).

TYPES OF REEFING

REEFING THE MAIN

Mainsails have reefing points sewn into them when they are made. Yachts expecting strong winds may well have a three-reefed mainsail. This gives them more opportunity to reef in different winds. Day sailing yachts might only have one or two reefing points as they wouldn’t be out in exceptionally strong winds.

To reef the mainsail, the boat must be turned up into the wind to take the pressure off. You don’t want to turn it so much that the boat tacks itself or that the foresail starts flogging madly. Easing the mainsheet will also help take off the force.

After the pressure has been taken off the sail, you’ll need to release the kicking strap/vang (the rope or arm holding the boom down) and tighten the topping lift. The weight of the boom will now be taken on the topping lift and not the sail.

After you’ve reefed and tightened up the main halyard again, you can loosen the topping lift and tighten the kicking strap/vang.

SLAB REEFING

Slab reefing is the preferred method for serious offshore sailors including the famous Skip Novak. This is the act of folding the bottom of the sail down until you reach your desired reefing point. In slab reefing, the mainsail is lowered down onto the boom and then secured at it’s new smaller size.

Many modern yachts use a lazyjack system which creates a pocket for the mainsail to reef down into. If your lines lead back to the cockpit and you have a single-line reefing system, the process is straightforward.

Simply lower the main halyard down until the reefing point reaches the boom. Then, cleat it off. Pull the reefing line until it tightens the luff and leech of the sail.

With lazyjacks, the excess material will be safely contained. Without lazyjacks, you’ll have folds of material flopping around the boom. You’ll need to tie these using the metal eyes sewn into the sail along the reefing point.

If you don’t have lines leading back to the cockpit, you’ll need to reef the sail while standing at the mast. After lowering the halyard to the reefing point, you can hook the reefing point and pull the reefing line to tighten the new foot.

IN MAST REEFING

In mast reefing is popular with modern yachts and charter yachts. This type of reefing rolls the mainsail into the mast as opposed to dropping it down onto the boom. In mast reefing is usually very straightforward and extremely quick. This is performed by pulling on the furling line.

Long-distance sailors or sailors likely to encounter unpleasant conditions may steer away from in mast reefing. This is due to the risk of the furling system causing a mast jamming. In a jam, it may become impossible to reef the main or take it down at all. This situation can quickly become extremely dangerous.

BOOM REEFING

Boom reefing is where the mainsail is rolled around or furled inside the boom. Possibly the least popular type of furling, boom reefing can be difficult and has a few downsides to it such as the boom becoming larger than it would be otherwise and the shape of the sail getting lost.

Boom reefing is performed simply by releasing the main halyard down and pulling the furling line until the sail reaches the desired size. Boom reefing technicalities depend on the make of the furler but are usually very easy to operate.

FORESAIL REEFING

Foresail reefing is quick and easy. It is a great way to reduce overall sail area fast. Many yachts perform best with the power in the center of the boat, i.e. the mainsail. So, reefing the foresail before the main can be ideal to maintain the forward drive.

Most sailboats have a roller furling system for the foresail and reduce the size of the sail to however small they like. Reefing a foresail requires easing out the sheet so that the sail loses the wind and the pressure is taken off.

Then, you can pull in on the foresail reefing line until the sail is the desired size before cleating off. Winch in the sheet until the sail is set and you’re reefed down!

REEFING OTHER BOATS

While we’ve only talked about reefing a sloop, you can reef almost all sailboats. The only boats that you often cannot reef are those with hanked-on sails. When the wind gets too strong in this case, the sails must be swapped out for small ones.

Reefing catamarans is a good example of needing to reef the main and not the foresail. The foresail of a catamaran creates an upward lift, which is important to prevent the cat from burying its bows.

WHAT HAPPENS AFTER REEFING

Reefing either sail will slightly change the way the boat is handled. Depending on which sail is reefed or reefed the most may cause the boat to come up into the wind or bear away from it. The helmsman will feel the change and should adjust the steering accordingly.

If the reefing caused the boat to drop a large amount of momentum and is suddenly slopping about in the water, you have reefed too much. In gusty or squally conditions, it can be difficult to know how much to reef or exactly when to reef.

If you see a squall approaching, you may have to put up with wallowing a little under a deep reef before the squall hits you. When it does though, you’ll be glad you reefed!

GO SAILING!

Reefing is an essential skill for sailing. However, the fundamentals are so simple that you’ll soon easily get to know the reefing systems on your boat or the boats you sail. Having the knowledge to reef will give you the confidence to go out sailing in some great conditions.

A great tip for setting out into strong winds is to reef before you even leave the harbor! It’s often easier to put out more sail than to reef it in. So, start smaller if you think the wind strength might call for it.

The post How To Reef A Sail – A Beginners Guide appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Any ski trip has an element of risk. After all, gliding downhill at high rates of speed is definitely flirting with danger. But if you prepare to have a safe trip and make safe decisions on the slopes, you should come home exhilarated from your vacation rather than injured and miserable.

PREPARE IN ADVANCE FOR A SAFE SKI VACATION

GET IN SHAPE

Get in shape for your ski vacation. That way, you’ll enjoy it more. Being in shape for skiing allows you to ski longer instead of cutting slope time short to go soak sore muscles in the hot tub. You can also string together multiple days on the slopes without needing to take a day off to recover.

The best way to get in shape is to do a combination of aerobic and strengthening exercises. Check with your local gym to see if a ski conditioning class is offered. Ski conditioning classes usually target specific exercises to make the transition to the slope more successful.

BUY A HELMET

Head trauma is one of the worst injuries that a skier or snowboarder can incur. Head injuries usually occur from falls, when the head or neck slams into the snow, a person or an object like a tree. Helmets can reduce the severity of an injury to the head.

According to the National Ski Areas Association, studies have shown that helmets can reduce head injuries by 30 to 50 percent. Helmets can also convert what might be a major head injury with severe repercussions to a minor headache.

The Snell Memorial Foundation, Inc. tests helmets for safety. Although there are many different safety standards for helmets, Snell-certified helmets meet the highest standards in the world.

When shopping for ski or snowboard helmets meeting the highest safety standards, look for the Snell certification on the packaging.

You don’t need to travel with a helmet or even purchase your own. Many ski resorts rent helmets. Check ahead to be sure rental helmets are available.

GET SUN PROTECTION

The sun and snow can make you feel like you’re in a frying pan. Not only are skiers exposed to UV radiation, but the sun’s rays gain intensity by reflecting off snow surfaces. Before leaving home, you’ll need to stock up on sunscreen. Lack of skin protection can contribute to faster skin aging and cancers.

For maximum protection, cover your entire body with clothing or sunscreen. The sunscreen should be at least SPF 30. In addition, the National Ski Areas Association in the U.S. recommends sunscreens which are broad spectrum and contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

You’ll need to reapply sunscreen every couple hours on the slopes. To be able to do that, buy a small refillable bottle to keep in the pocket of your ski jacket. You’ll also want sunscreen lip protection handy.

Lack of eye protection can let sun radiation damage the eyes. Severe cases result in snow blindness. Before leaving home, check your goggles and sunglasses for UV protection. They should be rated at 100 percent UV.

STUDY THE TRAIL MAP

Before visiting a new ski area on vacation, study the trail map. Analyze it. Make a mental note of chairlifts or runs to avoid those that may be beyond your skill level. Also, make a plan of attack for where to start your explorations. It’s always safer to start on easier slopes and work up to more difficult terrain.

Remember, trail symbols are ski area specific. Although trail symbols are common across all resorts in North America, they vary at each resort. For example, green circles denoting easier runs may be steeper in the Rocky Mountains than at ski areas in the Midwest.

In fact, at some more challenging resorts, green runs may be comparable to the more difficult blue squares at smaller resorts. Launching on easier runs will help you gauge the caliber of the mountain.

SAFETY ON THE SLOPES

SKI WITHIN YOUR ABILITY

A surefire way to wreck your vacation is to ski out of control or go on runs far above your ability. We all love challenges. But on ski slopes, be sure you have the prerequisite skills to tackle the next level before diving down the slope.

Skiing under control can still be fun. It also offers the guarantee of lesser chances of muscle, ligament and bone injuries.

Knowing when to quit skiing is equally important. Be in tune with your body and energy level. Be sensitive to exhaustion that can lead to injury as well. Call it a day before fatigue sets in.

DON’T FOLLOW OTHERS INTO UNKNOWN AREAS

It’s always fun to find secret stashes of powder. Be wary of following in the tracks of locals into unknown zones. The tracks could go through terrain the locals know well, but might hold hazards for you: cliff bands, creek gullies, tree wells, or tight chutes. The zone may also have a necessary exit point to avoid dropping into a terrain trap.

If you want to explore unknown extreme terrain, be sure you have the skills. If you are unsure of what the area contains, consult with ski patrol. In many resorts, you can hire a guide to lead you in and out of the terrain.

CHOOSE SAFE PLACES TO STOP

Clogging the center of a trail, run or junction invites collisions. So does standing in the lift unload zone. To be safe when stopping, choose places that will avoid setting up an accident.

When stopping, avoid halting in the middle of runs, trails or junctions. Always pull off to the side.

On narrow cat tracks, ski in control enough that you can wait until the trail widens to steer aside. This is especially important when a group of people ski together. Four people in a bunch can cut off access in the middle of a narrow run.

BE AWARE OF OTHER SKIERS AROUND YOU

When skiing, we focus so much on ourselves: our turns, how we’ll navigate the route and what’s in front of us. We rarely pay attention to what else is around or behind us. You can increase your safety on a slope by paying attention to skiers and snowboarders around you. Be alert.

Learn to read those skiing in front of you. Look for a particular rhythm and range to their turns that can help you identify how to ski around them. But, remember to still steer wide around them in case they alter their course.

Get the in the habit of looking uphill. When you stop to rest, look uphill to see what may be coming your direction and stand in a place out of the way.

Likewise, before launching into more turns, look uphill to gauge when you can merge in a safe way. When approaching intersections of runs and blind spots, ease up on the speed to be able to assess oncoming skiers and make adjustments in your route.

STAY HYDRATED

Often when skiing, we discount the importance of hydration. After all, we are skiing on frozen water getting thirsty seems farfetched.

Unfortunately, by the time we get thirsty, we are already suffering from the effects of dehydration. In fact, too many skiers rely on a quick slurp of water at a fountain or a cold beer to shake the effects of dehydration.

Keeping hydrated is important for skiing. It aids in retaining energy, supporting muscle performance and enhancing cellular function.

Drinking water helps to cope with altitude especially for skiers going to high elevations where the air is more arid. This can prevent headaches and other ill effects from high elevation.

To help with hydration on the slopes, drink frequently. Some skiers carry water bladders in packs to rehydrate on the chairlifts. You can also take frequent breaks to drink water, hot tea or energy drinks.

Eating fruits and soup can also aid in replenishing lost fluid. Keep in mind that caffeine and alcohol are dehydrators and should not be used as substitutes for water.

THINGS TO AVOID

CLOSED AREAS

Closed areas are to keep skiers away from hazards. Ski patrol closes slopes for snow, avalanche, rock, cliffs, creeks or melt-out hazards. Skiing into these areas is risky.

Plus, should something happen, ski patrol then must come into the hazardous area to perform a rescue. Staying out of closed areas ensures you will have a safer day on the slopes.

TREE WELLS

Fresh powder snow lures skiers into the trees for soft deep turns. But in some locations, those trees hold hidden dangers that can be fatal. Ski resorts with evergreen trees, such as hemlocks, spruce and firs, are places skiers should be cautious about.

Deep snow creates a well around the base of the tree, which may sometimes be hidden by the tree’s low branches. Some of these wells can be more than six feet deep.

These tree wells are filled with loose snow that can trap skiers who fall into them. It may sound innocuous, but skiers often fall in upside down.

So why are the tree wells dangerous? Due to the loose snow, skiers can’t get out. This is because snow consolidates around them, similar to what happens in an avalanche.

What can you do to protect yourself from falling into a tree well or suffocating when immersed in snow? If you are planning to ski in the trees, take a buddy. Ski near enough to each other that you can see if your buddy falls into a tree well and respond.

AVALANCHES

Avalanches can be deadly. To mitigate the risk, most resorts bomb or ski cut avalanche-prone slopes within the ski area boundaries. However, this does not usually go beyond the boundary or in side country.

Only go into avalanche terrain when the hazard is minimal. You can find the potential hazard level by checking the avalanche report.

Ski with at least one buddy in an avalanche terrain. Both of you must also carry the appropriate gear—a beacon, probe and shovel—and know how to use them. The gear cannot be shared if one person gets buried.

If you haven’t taken an avalanche course nor have the gear, steer clear of all potential avalanche terrains. If you plan to ski out of bounds, check in with ski patrol for an update on avalanche conditions or advice on routes.

SAFETY REMINDERS

FOLLOW SKIER RESPONSIBILITY CODES

In the U.S., the Skier Responsibility Code addresses common sense safety concerns. Although we’ve already mentioned several elements of the code, we find it wise to remind skiers of these again:

1. Always stay in control and be able to stop or avoid other people or objects.

2. People ahead of you have the right of way. It is your responsibility to avoid them.

3. You must not stop where you obstruct a trail, or are not visible from above.

4. Whenever starting downhill or merging into a trail, look uphill and yield to others.

5. Always use devices to help prevent runaway equipment.

6. Observe all posted signs and warnings. Keep off closed trails and out of closed areas.

7. Prior to using any lift, you must have the knowledge and ability to load, ride and unload safely.

In Canada, the Alpine Responsibility Code from the Canadian Ski Patrol is similar. It reiterates all of the same codes, but adds two others:

1. If you are involved in or witness a collision/accident, you must remain at the scene and identify yourself to the Ski Patrol.

2. You must not use lifts or terrain if your ability is impaired through the use of alcohol or drugs.

KNOW WHEN TO QUIT

Most ski patrollers concur that accidents happen at the end of the ski day. Why? That’s when fatigue sets in. Add the urge to ski for one more run and the adventure ends with torn ACLs, collisions or even worse injuries.

To avoid being hauled off the slope in a ski patrol toboggan, be conscious of your muscle strength and endurance. It’s better to call an end to your day to go celebrate in the bar or hot tub than end up in the hospital.

Make safe decisions to ensure that your ski vacation will be a success.

The post 14 Ski Safety Tips To Enjoy Your Next Snow Vacation appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

If you dream of being alone on the big blue ocean and catching mahi-mahi, wahoo and tuna, then kayak fishing might be for you. This offers unparalleled maneuverability through pristine fishing areas inaccessible to boaters and shore fisherman.

Let us help you make your outdoor adventures successful right from the start. We’ll teach you what dangers to look out for, what to take on your trip and how to move smoothly, quietly and effectively through waters where the fish are biting.

PRE TRIP TIPS & HAZARDS

1. CHECK LOCAL FISHING REPORTS

Understanding what’s biting, where and why is not only an integral part of developing your skills as a fisherman but also the environmentally responsible thing to do.

2. BE AWARE OF THE WEATHER

Check the weather reports before you go to be able to spot fast-forming systems.

FOG

While not inherently dangerous, fog can make it easy to lose track of your position on the water. This can cause you to get lost, exposing you to the elements for much longer than you anticipated.

WIND

Strong winds cause choppy waves. It’s easy to imagine why you’d want to avoid this while riding a small vessel.

RAIN

If you’re going to kayak in the rain, make sure to bring a rain jacket, shell or drysuit to ensure comfort. Although being wet while kayaking is usually just an annoyance, it can be very dangerous when combined with cold weather.

LIGHTNING

In the event of a thunderstorm, immediately head back to shore as soon as you spot trouble. If you get caught in a storm on the water, take your fishing rods down and lay them flat in your kayak before paddling back to shore so they don’t act as lightning rods.

3. BE AWARE OF OTHER VESSELS

Be realistic in your estimate on how long it will take you to cross large waterways before you begin to cross. Look for oncoming vessels moving at high speeds as they will approach very quickly. Most of time, these could pass you more quickly than you expect.

Be aware of tankers, also known as tanker ships. These massive ships transport oil, gas, chemicals and other goods as well as create very large waves. You will most likely encounter them on rivers used for transport and near ocean jetties as they cruise to port.

It’s best to paddle directly toward the waves, with as much momentum as possible to punch cleanly through. Traveling parallel to waves puts you at risk of capsizing.

KAYAK FISHING PACKING TIPS

4. BRING SAFETY GEAR

Safety is the most important item on your pack list as it’s going to be what saves your life in the event of an emergency. A personal flotation device (PFD) is essential.

Other items you should take include a whistle, flares, gloves, a headlamp (even if you do not plan to be out at night), first aid kit, paddle leash, fishing rod leash and an emergency kayak repair kit.

5. WEAR SKIN PROTECTION

Skin protection will keep you comfortable on your trip and healthy long-term. Pack bug spray, waterproof sunscreen, sun-protective clothing, a hat and sunglasses.

6. PACK PLENTY OF FOOD AND WATER

Food and water are not only necessary for survival, they could also be the only things that bring you happiness in the event the fish aren’t biting. To avoid dehydration, drink plenty of water the day before your trip. Pack water-rich foods like fruit and lean proteins to snack on while fishing.

7. CARRY AN ANCHOR

An anchor is often an overlooked piece of gear on many first-time kayak fishermen’s pack list. A popular and easy-to-use choice is the folding anchor. Weighing 1.5 to 4.0 lbs, folding anchors are small which makes for easy storage. These even typically come in a carry bag for convenience.

Another option is a stake-out pole which is quite literally a very large, sturdy pole designed to be stuck in the mud, either through a designated hole in the body of the kayak or simply tethered to the kayak. Stake-out poles are ideal for flats fishing.

Regardless of your choice, only tether your anchor to the bow or stern as a side tether could capsize your kayak. Read our article on the best kayak anchors.

8. BRING FISH HANDLING GEAR

Fish handling gear includes gloves, pliers, nets, line cutters, fish grips and stringers. If you’re new to fishing, consider crimping the barbs on your hooks as unhooking fish is a skill in itself. Gloves are useful when handling fish with sharp fins or teeth.

Unless you hooked a soft-lipped fish like a trout, which you can easily remove the hook with your fingers, a pair of pliers will come in handy. Look for a pair that tethers to your PFD or consider a survival multi-tool.

Nets are useful for scooping up the fish as you bring it close to the kayak. These allow you to leave the fish halfway in the water, which eases the strain on your catch.

9. BRING A CAMERA ON A MOUNT

The best way to document your kayak fishing adventures is with a camera on a mount. The GoPro Hero5 Black offers 4K capture, voice control, a 2-inch touch display and video stabilization in a waterproof and virtually indestructible build.

There are other competitors on the action camera market, all of which can be attached to a mount on either the bow or stern of your kayak. YakAttack offers a wide selection of kayak camera mounts.

SKILLS TO BECOME A MASTER FISHERMAN

10. LEARN SIGHT FISHING

Sight fishing is the act of looking into the water to find fish first with your eyes. Polarized glasses are a must-have since they cut the glare from the water and allow you to see through as far as water visibility will allow.

If your kayak is extra wide or built for stand-up fishing, practice standing and paddling along a bank or marsh. Have your rod ready to cast.

Read our article on best fishing kayaks for recommendations on all types of fishing kayaks including those suitable for stand-up fishing.

11. MOVE QUIETLY

Any vibrations made inside your boat or on top of the water will be felt and heard by fish swimming nearby. Try not to knock your paddle or rod against the kayak or the water’s surface.

12. LEARN EFFICIENT LURE CHANGING

Efficient lure changing could mean the difference between catching a fish and not. Many times, you will eye a group of schooling or feeding fish only to lose them because your line held an inappropriate lure. Practice changing lures quickly before your trip.

13. LEARN HOW TO DRIFT

Drifting is a skill that will come in handy even more than utilizing an anchor. Paddle a bit in the direction you want to go and then drift with the current through your targets. A single stroke on the left or right side of your kayak here or there will keep you on track.

Some anglers deploy a drift chute which is essentially an underwater parachute. This catches enough water to slow your kayak’s momentum without fully stopping it.

14. KNOW HOW TO SET THE DRAG

Fighting fish are the biggest thrill you’ll get from kayak fishing. Whether you’re reeling in a big redfish, one of the best fighting fish out there, or a small bass, it’s always exhilarating.

Read up on how to correctly set the drag based on the strength of your fishing line and weight of the hooked fish at World Fishing Network.

15. POINT YOUR ROD TIP SIDEWAYS

Fishing up wind can be very difficult especially to new fisherman. One trick is to point your rod tip sideways instead of straight up. By keeping your rod and lure low and close to the water, you avoid the higher speed winds above you.

Wind tends to blow in gusts, so try to cast your lure in between the strongest gusts. After making a cast, keep your rod tip low so the wind doesn’t push on your line and drag your lure from its target.

TIPS FOR INSHORE, LAKE AND RIVER KAYAK FISHING

16. UNDERSTAND THE POSITIONING

Understanding the positioning of your kayak relative to the shore is a key factor in determining your ability to hit your targets. PackPaddle offers detailed infographics on optimal positioning.

17. BUY A KAYAK CART

To the seasoned fisherman, kayak fishing may be a breeze, but getting to the launch site can prove difficult for anyone. Sometimes there’s a a long trek from the parking lot down a bumpy trail to the waterfront.

Carrying a kayak a half a mile, even with two people, is exhausting. But, it would be nearly impossible if each person has their own kayak.

A kayak cart allows you to support one end of a kayak on a lightweight, padded frame and terrain wheels while you guide the rig via the handle on the other end of the kayak. Some are even towable by bicycle.

TIPS FOR OFFSHORE KAYAK FISHING

18. PACK A MARINE VHF RADIO

Very high frequency radios are the only means of communication in offshore areas out of cell tower range.

19. KNOW HOW TO RE-ENTER THE KAYAK

Know how to re-enter you kayak should you fall out. This is an invaluable skill in all arenas of kayaking, but absolutely essential or offshore fishing, where land is out of swimming distance and predators are large enough to inflict lethal injury on humans.

The post 19 Awesome Kayak Fishing Tips For Beginners appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Either way, making a fishing spear isn’t as difficult as you might think. All it takes is just a little bit of hard work. Using it to catch fish, though, is another story. In this article, you’re not only going to learn how to make a fishing spear but also how to use it.

CRAFT YOUR SPEAR – 4 STEP GUIDE

STEP 1: FIND WOOD

 The first step in making a fishing spear the old-fashioned way is to find a piece of wood. You’re going to need a long, skinny and straight piece of wood. It’s also best if it’s a live tree as dead wood will crack more easily.

The length of your spear should be about as tall as you are, a little longer if you can handle it. The diameter should be similar to the size of a broomstick.

Find a sapling with the desired dimensions and as few branches as possible. Fewer branches mean fewer knots. This will make your spear sturdier, according to survival experts.

You also want to make sure you choose a hardwood. Some examples of hardwood are maple, oak and teak, but there are a lot more out there. If you’re not privy to all the different species of wood, you can tell if it’s a hardwood or softwood by doing the fingernail test.

Just run your fingernail over the surface of the wood. If it leaves a mark, then what you have is a softwood.

STEP 2: DECIDE ON PRONGED OR STRAIGHT

Once you’ve found your sapling, it’s time to decide what type of spear you’ll be making. Think about the size of fish you’ll be hunting. If they’re less than 10 inches, chances are a pronged spear will work well. You’ll have a bigger margin of error, but less penetration.

Anything larger than 10 inches and a pronged spear won’t give you the penetration necessary to stop the fish. It’ll wriggle off and you’ll be left hungry.

PRONGED SPEAR

Making a pronged spear is a bit more complicated than making a straight spear. It may be worth the extra work though. Fishing with a handmade spear is difficult. You’re not just sitting there with a pole waiting for the fish to bite down. It takes precision.

Having a couple of prongs to increase your chances of hitting the fish may be worth sacrificing penetration.

The first thing to do when making a pronged spear is to secure the shaft of your spear with lashing. You should use a strong cord or rope. You’re going to be splitting the wood but you don’t want the rest of your spear to split, too.

Figure out how long you want your prongs to be and then tie the cord about an inch away from where your prong will stop. Make sure it is very tight.

Frank Sherwood at Wildwood Survival recommends six-inch prongs for a handmade spear.

Once you’ve decided on the length, find a rock or use a knife to serve as a wedge. Drive the wedge right down the center of your spear by hammering it lightly. Once the wedge is in place, secure it with some more rope or cordage.

You could also place a twig between the newly made prongs. Secure that using the twig as your wedge.

You have the option to create another set of prongs by repeating the process perpendicular to the wedge you just made. Either way, once you’ve created the prongs, you’ll want to sharpen them with a knife and then dry them out over a fire.

STEP 3: SHARPEN THE SPEAR

The easiest way to shape a spear tip would be with a knife. If you don’t have one, you can simply rub either side of the tip on a rock.

If you do have a knife, the best way to shape a sharp tip is to place the stick on a flat surface and use downward strokes. Be sure to cut away from yourself in case you slip.

STEP 4: DRY THE SPEAR TIP

Since you’re using a sapling, the wood is going to be moist. Dry wood is stronger and lighter, so the best thing to do is to dry out the tip of your spear.

Don’t dry out the whole thing. Extra weight in the shaft of your spear is a good thing. It’ll provide extra stopping power when you’re fishing.

The resident survival expert at Outdoor Life recommends pretending like you’re roasting a marshmallow when you dry out your spear. You don’t want to burn it. What you should aim for is to get a nice golden brown.

VIDEO: HOW TO MAKE A SPEAR

FISHING WITH THE SPEAR

Now that you’ve got a handmade spear, it’s time to put it to use. This is when the real battle starts. You’re not likely going to use this spear underwater, so your biggest obstacle is going to be light refraction.

Combining the art of ice spearfishing and the spearfishing done by free divers, you just might be able to catch something. A freediver uses stealth to catch his prey. He moves slowly, stays hidden and is very selective. All these still hold true.

But, a free diver doesn’t have to deal with as much light refraction since he is underwater with the fish. Light refraction essentially means that when you’re looking at a fish from outside the water, it is not where it appears to be.

This is where taking a page out of the ice Spearos book is helpful. Ice spear fishermen, like traditional ice fishers, sit in an ice house and wait with a heavy spear for a fish to swim by. They don’t “throw” their spear though.

Since they have a heavy spear, they wait with it in the water and drop it onto the fish. This tactic provides plenty of penetration. So, you’re going to want to copy their method of putting the tip of the spear in the water.

This means you’ll have to get very close to the fish, like any spear fishermen. But, there’s another degree of difficulty since you won’t be able to get as much speed on your throw from such close quarters. That’s why it’s better to think of your spear as a tool to pin the fish.

Get up close, thrust as hard as you can and pin the fish to a rock until you have time to reach up and grab it.

The post How To Make A Fishing Spear appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.