Sailing shoes provide all sorts of protection and are a key part of your sailing equipment. Finding the right sailing shoes means taking into account lots of variables, including the kind of sailing you’re planning on doing. We don’t like cold feet or busted toes here at The Adventure Junkies, so read on to learn about the best sailing shoes for you.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailing Hats.

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILING SHOES

1. Sperry Authentic Original Boat Shoe
2. GILL Tall Yachting Boots
3. Gill Trapeze Sailing Boots
4. GILL Competition Sailing Boots
5. Rugged Shark Great White Deck Boots
6. Helly Hansen Midsund 2 Rain Boots
7. Sperry Sojourn Duck Chukka Boots
8. Body Glove Seek Watershoe
9. Dubarry Ultima Stretch Boots
10. RONSTAN Superflex Boots

SAILING SHOES REVIEWS

SPERRY AUTHENTIC ORIGINAL BOAT SHOE

 

 

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DUBARRY ULTIMA STRETCH BOOTS

GILL TALL YACHTING BOOTS

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GILL TRAPEZE SAILING BOOTS

GILL COMPETITION SAILING BOOTS

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RUGGED SHARK GREAT WHITE DECK BOOTS

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HELLY HANSEN MIDSUND 2 RAIN BOOTS

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SPERRY SOJOURN DUCK CHUKKA BOOTS

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BODY GLOVE SEEK WATERSHOE

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RONSTAN SUPERFLEX BOOTS

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILING SHOES

PICTURE	SAILING SHOES	MATERIAL	BREATHABLE	PRICE	RATING
	Sperry Authentic Original Boat Shoe	Full-Grain Leather	Yes	$$	5.0
	GILL Tall Yachting Boots	Rubber	No	$$	5.0
	Gill Trapeze Sailing Boots	Neoprene	No	$$	5.0
	GILL Competition Sailing Boots	Rubber	No	$$	4.8
	Rugged Shark Great White Deck Boots	Rubber	No	$$	4.8
	Helly Hansen Midsund 2 Rain Boots	Rubber	No	$$	4.5
	Sperry Sojourn Duck Chukka Boots	Leather/Rubber	No	$$	4.4
	Body Glove Seek Watershoe	Neoprene/Mesh	Yes	$	4.3
	Dubarry Ultima Stretch Boots	Cordura	Yes	$$$	4.7
	RONSTAN Superflex Boots	Neoprene	No	$	4.7
PICTURE	SAILING SHOES	MATERIAL	BREATHABLE	PRICE	RATING

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST SAILING SHOES

TYPE OF SAILING

Equipment and clothing that you require for sailing very much depend on what type of sailing you’ll be doing. Whether it’s dinghy racing or classic cruising, your footwear needs to be right.

DINGHY SAILING

Dinghy sailing is probably the wettest kind of sailing (unless you’re into extreme performance yachts!) and so your dinghy sailing shoes need to cope. Dinghy sailing also involves shifting your body and weight quickly so clumpy shoes just aren’t going to cut it.

To keep your feet warm and easy to move in wet conditions, most dinghy sailors wear wetsuit booties. Made from neoprene, these types of boots come in different thicknesses depending on what temperatures you’ll be sailing in. Some dinghy sailing booties also have reinforced top sections so they don’t wear out when you’re feet are under the straps.

CRUISING

Cruising tends to be a much more laid back affair than dinghy sailing and shoe choice is much larger. From deck shoes to sailing wellies, your footwear choice will depend on your boat, the conditions and whether you need to go on deck or not.

The main consideration for cruising sailors is a non-marking sole. Black rubber marks are a big no-no on any boat! Cruising shoes should be reasonable waterproof in case waves come over, but also grippy, comfortable and easy to clean.

RACING

While many cruising yachts can also race, the act of racing is a more extreme form of sailing. What does that mean? It means that you’ll probably have a lot more water washing along the decks and into the cockpit.

Yachts may also be more heeled over when racing than other types of sailing so it’s easier to slip. If you want to do some racing or will be sailing a racing yacht, grippy soles are a must. Sailing shoes should also be waterproof and with a low-profile so you can move quickly should you need to.

LOCATION AND WEATHER

Will you be sailing on a lake? At sea? In big waves? In flat water? Will it be cold? Hot? Tropical? No one wants cold feet right?

If you’re sailing in a cold water area, you should plan your shoes for the water temperature, not the air temperature. Why? Because when the wind crosses water, it will often cool to the temperature of the water. Even on a hot, sunny day, sailing can get chilly if the water is cool.

In cold weather, numb toes can be a real problem. If you’re planning on cold water sailing then remember to leave room in sailing shoes for warm, thick socks.

On the flip side, if you’ll be sailing in warm seas and hot sun, you’ll need breathable sailing shoes that won’t leave your feet sweaty. Shows made from leather, mesh or GORE-TEX are usually very breathable.

MATERIAL

Sailing shoes come in all sorts of materials, mainly suited to conditions and environment. Dinghy sailing shoes need to allow you to swim in them should you capsize, hence being made out of neoprene. The thicker the neoprene, the warmer they’ll keep your feet.

Other sailing shoes can be made out of rubber or plastic. These materials are waterproof, making them good for cold water sailing. Rubber isn’t breathable though, so for warmer weather, leather or breathable synthetics are a good choice.

SOLE TYPE

Non-marking soles are crucial for any type of boat. A passenger or crew member with a marking sole is liable to be made to walk the plank. Luckily, it’s hard to find marking soles in the sailing shoe industry. All the sailing shoes featured in our reviews have non-marking soles.

Grippy soles are important as decks and cockpits can get very slippery. However, deep tread isn’t necessarily good and can pick up stones and gravel ashore which then scratch the gelcoat and wood on a boat.

Neoprene booties usually have reinforced soles for longevity and extra comfort when walking up dinghy ramps. Cheaper booties might lack this feature and could wear out much faster but are great for beginners.

COMFORT

Uncomfortable shoes are terrible so it seems like a no-brainer to buy comfortable sailing shoes. But there’s often more to it than ordinary shoes.

For instance, will you always be wearing socks? Sometimes, you might need to get out on deck quickly when you have to reef a sail. You may not have time to put socks on, so can you still wear and walk in your shoes without them?

Do you find shoes often rub? If so, finding shoes with a softer opening might be a good idea. Blisters can get infected in saltwater environments, especially if you’re sailing in the sub-tropics and tropics.

The post Best Sailing Shoes of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

While tacking and jibing themselves are simple concepts, there are some important things you need to think about. A good tack means knowing why, when and how you’ll be tacking. Read our simple steps and learn how to tack and jibe.

WHAT IS TACKING AND JIBING?

Tacking means turning the boat through the eye of the wind (the direction the wind is coming from) and catching it on the other side. Since the sails catch the wind from the head, tacking offers a lot of control and can be performed with ease.

Jibing (or gybing) means you are turning the boat downwind from one side of dead downwind (the direction the wind is going) to the other.

The wind is coming from behind the sails and boom, so it can catch the mainsail and hurl it from one side of the boat to the other. This means it must be performed carefully and is fundamentally less controlled than tacking.

Unlike going into the wind, you can actually sail dead downwind but only with a specific sail plan. Often, your sails will require you to jibe downwind. Knowing your points of sail and what they mean is a great way to start learning how to sail.

WHY DO YOU NEED TO TACK?

Since you can’t sail directly into the wind, you must tack up into it if that’s your destination.

Sailing requires catching the wind in the sails to power them up and move forward. That means that the sails must be at an angle to the wind. The angle depends on the direction you want to travel in, relative to the wind.

WHY DO YOU NEED TO JIBE?

You can only sail directly downwind with a spinnaker or twin headsails. Other sails like cruising chutes allow you to sail almost dead downwind. However, many sailors don’t want to buy or change extra sails. So, they stick with a jib/genoa and a mainsail for all wind directions.

Jibing is usually performed when you want to sail dead downwind or near enough. You can jibe downwind so that you are zigzagging down along the wind’s path just like when you tack you’ll be zigzagging up towards the wind.

WHEN TO TACK

Knowing exactly when to tack will depend on where you’re going and the type of sailing you’re doing. In a race, tacking too early or too late could lose you the medals!

Generally speaking, you want to stay as close to the direct path to your destination as possible. This means that you’d tack fairly regularly.

However, you also need to remember that tacking makes you lose speed for a minute or two. So, you don’t want to tack all the time. In a narrow channel when you must go upwind, you’ll be short-tacking. This is where you tack very regularly. Possibly even every couple of minutes!

WHEN TO JIBE

As jibing is less controlled, some sailors avoid it as much as possible. If you’re not in a rush, you can technically tack instead and turn the boat in an almost full circle. If you’re in very strong winds, it can be preferable to tack. However, a controlled jibe is always possible.

Similar with tacking, you’ll need to jibe when you’ve gone as far as you want off your direct line and plan to take another zigzag back over it.

HOW TO TACK

Tacking is simple although the technicalities will vary from boat to boat. For a cruising yacht, the helmsman will pull in the mainsheet in as tight as it can be without causing the boat speed to drop off.

The helmsman will then shout, “ready about!” or a previously agreed upon phrase. This alerts the crew that the boat is going to tack.

Note that many modern yachts have a self-tacking foresail. This means that nothing needs to be done with it as it will simply tack itself when the boat tacks.

The crew member controlling the foresail will wait until the helmsman has turned the boat into the wind and out the other side before easing the foresail that will already be trying to tack itself. The same crew member or another one will pull in on the foresail’s opposite line as the first line is completely released.

Once the boat is pointing in its new direction, the helmsman will ease out the mainsheet and the crew will winch in the foresail. The faster you tack, the less speed you will lose!

HOW TO JIBE

Jibing is less forgiving than tacking. While tacking does not require the mainsheet to be in tight, jibing does. The first step is for the helmsman to pull in the mainsheet so it is as tight as possible. This prevents the wind from whipping it from one side to the other.

The second step is for the crew on the foresail to sheet in. This stops the wind from pushing the foresail around the front of the forestay.

When these steps are complete, the helmsman can steer the boat to its new position. The boom will be pushed over by the wind as far as the mainsheet allows and can be then let out as far as needed.

This needs to happen fairly speedily to prevent the wind catching it and slamming it the other way especially in swells. The foresail can also be let out to its appropriate level.

VIDEO: TACKING AND GYBING

CRASH JIBING

Crash jibing is the reason why some sailors dislike jibing. It occurs when the wind, coming from behind, catches the boom on the wrong side and slams it from one side of the boat to the other.

Not only can this send the boat lurching over and breaking the boom, it can also catch crew members unaware, knocking or even killing them.

Crash jibing usually doesn’t occur while jibing. Rather, it occurs when the boat jibes itself. This can happen when sailing very close to the jibing point if the wind changes while using auto-pilot or when waves unbalance the sails and boom.

Crash jibing can be avoided by using a rope to tie the boom to a cleat or using several other safety methods.

KEEPING YOUR SPEED UP

While jibing can (and should) be done slowly and with you in control, tacking too slowly won’t work. Since sailing directly into the wind kills your speed, the helmsman should complete the turn through the wind fairly quickly and let out the main straight away.

It’s also crucial to have enough boat speed going into the tack. Otherwise, you may not make it through at all!

If you require extra boat speed, the helmsman can change course away from the wind slightly before the tack, increasing the power of the sails. When the speed is enough, they can then tack successfully. A tack with minimum lost speed is a racing tack and quite a skill to hone.

EMERGENCY TACKING

Occasionally, you may need to suddenly alter course in a way that results in a tack. This might happen if you see something in the water or discover yourself on an immediate collision course. The main consideration in an emergency tack is that nobody is in the way of the boom.

While far more controlled than a jibe, if you must tack before you can pull the mainsheet in, then shouting a boom warning to crew is the first step. The sails come second to the safety of the boat and crew.

SAFETY TIPS

The most dangerous things in either sailing maneuver are the boom, the changing angle of the boat and lazy sheets whipping as the sails lose power and flap. Many have gone overboard due to a flicking line!

For a successful maneuver, the crew must be informed of what if going to happen. This will likely take the risk out of these dangers and make for a fast tack or a safe jibe.

The post How To Tack and Jibe A Sailboat – A Beginners Guide appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Sailboats are made for the ocean and its weather. That’s why all it takes is learning how to sail to be safe. When yachts get into trouble, it’s often the crew at fault rather than a flaw in the boat! Understanding how wind strength and sail plan affects your sailboat will give you the tools to fearlessly go on an adventure.

WHAT IS REEFING?

Reefing is simply making a sail smaller. This is usually done in response to the increasing wind. Reefing down a sail allows you to continue sailing without being overpowered. This keeps the boat under control and often makes the journey more comfortable.

A sail that is too large for the wind conditions could be dangerous as it provides too much resistance for the boat. Putting off reefing, especially for a squall or very strong winds, is a bad idea. It can result in the sail ripping, the boat heeling over dangerously or even the mast breaking.

Reefing can seem overwhelming but in reality, it’s a fairly simple action. Once you’ve reefed, even strong winds will seem considerably more manageable and the conditions will be far less daunting.

DO YOU NEED TO REEF?

When you need to reef will depend on the boat you’re sailing. Some boats will need to be reefed considerably earlier than others. Lightweight yachts often need reefing much earlier than heavy, more traditional yachts.

If your sailboat has a heavy, full keel, chances are you’ll be able to hold full sail for longer than a fin-keeled lightweight cruiser. In increasing winds and relatively safe waters or conditions – small waves, daylight – you can wait until the boat feels like she’s starting to strain before reefing.

In more difficult conditions – large waves, twilight or dark – you will want to reef in anticipation.

Unless you are continuing a particular course, you may not need to reef at all. If you need to turn downwind, for instance, you can turn sooner and keep a full sail.

Often, you can reef just the foresail to reduce pressure while keeping the center of effort further aft for better performance (unless you’re a catamaran).

TYPES OF REEFING

REEFING THE MAIN

Mainsails have reefing points sewn into them when they are made. Yachts expecting strong winds may well have a three-reefed mainsail. This gives them more opportunity to reef in different winds. Day sailing yachts might only have one or two reefing points as they wouldn’t be out in exceptionally strong winds.

To reef the mainsail, the boat must be turned up into the wind to take the pressure off. You don’t want to turn it so much that the boat tacks itself or that the foresail starts flogging madly. Easing the mainsheet will also help take off the force.

After the pressure has been taken off the sail, you’ll need to release the kicking strap/vang (the rope or arm holding the boom down) and tighten the topping lift. The weight of the boom will now be taken on the topping lift and not the sail.

After you’ve reefed and tightened up the main halyard again, you can loosen the topping lift and tighten the kicking strap/vang.

SLAB REEFING

Slab reefing is the preferred method for serious offshore sailors including the famous Skip Novak. This is the act of folding the bottom of the sail down until you reach your desired reefing point. In slab reefing, the mainsail is lowered down onto the boom and then secured at it’s new smaller size.

Many modern yachts use a lazyjack system which creates a pocket for the mainsail to reef down into. If your lines lead back to the cockpit and you have a single-line reefing system, the process is straightforward.

Simply lower the main halyard down until the reefing point reaches the boom. Then, cleat it off. Pull the reefing line until it tightens the luff and leech of the sail.

With lazyjacks, the excess material will be safely contained. Without lazyjacks, you’ll have folds of material flopping around the boom. You’ll need to tie these using the metal eyes sewn into the sail along the reefing point.

If you don’t have lines leading back to the cockpit, you’ll need to reef the sail while standing at the mast. After lowering the halyard to the reefing point, you can hook the reefing point and pull the reefing line to tighten the new foot.

IN MAST REEFING

In mast reefing is popular with modern yachts and charter yachts. This type of reefing rolls the mainsail into the mast as opposed to dropping it down onto the boom. In mast reefing is usually very straightforward and extremely quick. This is performed by pulling on the furling line.

Long-distance sailors or sailors likely to encounter unpleasant conditions may steer away from in mast reefing. This is due to the risk of the furling system causing a mast jamming. In a jam, it may become impossible to reef the main or take it down at all. This situation can quickly become extremely dangerous.

BOOM REEFING

Boom reefing is where the mainsail is rolled around or furled inside the boom. Possibly the least popular type of furling, boom reefing can be difficult and has a few downsides to it such as the boom becoming larger than it would be otherwise and the shape of the sail getting lost.

Boom reefing is performed simply by releasing the main halyard down and pulling the furling line until the sail reaches the desired size. Boom reefing technicalities depend on the make of the furler but are usually very easy to operate.

FORESAIL REEFING

Foresail reefing is quick and easy. It is a great way to reduce overall sail area fast. Many yachts perform best with the power in the center of the boat, i.e. the mainsail. So, reefing the foresail before the main can be ideal to maintain the forward drive.

Most sailboats have a roller furling system for the foresail and reduce the size of the sail to however small they like. Reefing a foresail requires easing out the sheet so that the sail loses the wind and the pressure is taken off.

Then, you can pull in on the foresail reefing line until the sail is the desired size before cleating off. Winch in the sheet until the sail is set and you’re reefed down!

REEFING OTHER BOATS

While we’ve only talked about reefing a sloop, you can reef almost all sailboats. The only boats that you often cannot reef are those with hanked-on sails. When the wind gets too strong in this case, the sails must be swapped out for small ones.

Reefing catamarans is a good example of needing to reef the main and not the foresail. The foresail of a catamaran creates an upward lift, which is important to prevent the cat from burying its bows.

WHAT HAPPENS AFTER REEFING

Reefing either sail will slightly change the way the boat is handled. Depending on which sail is reefed or reefed the most may cause the boat to come up into the wind or bear away from it. The helmsman will feel the change and should adjust the steering accordingly.

If the reefing caused the boat to drop a large amount of momentum and is suddenly slopping about in the water, you have reefed too much. In gusty or squally conditions, it can be difficult to know how much to reef or exactly when to reef.

If you see a squall approaching, you may have to put up with wallowing a little under a deep reef before the squall hits you. When it does though, you’ll be glad you reefed!

GO SAILING!

Reefing is an essential skill for sailing. However, the fundamentals are so simple that you’ll soon easily get to know the reefing systems on your boat or the boats you sail. Having the knowledge to reef will give you the confidence to go out sailing in some great conditions.

A great tip for setting out into strong winds is to reef before you even leave the harbor! It’s often easier to put out more sail than to reef it in. So, start smaller if you think the wind strength might call for it.

The post How To Reef A Sail – A Beginners Guide appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

From dinghy and lake sailing to tropical island hopping and offshore cruising, the basics are the same. Using the wind and current to get from one place to another is a liberating experience. After this article, you’ll be able to get a head start on sailing!

LEARNING TO SAIL

1. DECIDE WHICH TYPE OF BOAT

Sailboats are just boats — with sails. Simple, right? But, sailboats can be anything from dinghies to super yachts. So, deciding the kind of sailboat you want to sail is important.

Dinghy sailing is a great way to start. Renting a dinghy or taking lessons is cheap. It also gives you a great understanding of the fickle nature of the wind. If you want to sail across an ocean one day, then learning how to sail cruising yachts is the thing for you.

2. GET THE RIGHT LICENSES & KNOW THE REGULATIONS

Boat licenses depend on your state as well as where and what you’ll be sailing. Lake sailing may have different licenses and regulations from coastal sailing. If you own your boat or are looking to buy one, then check what license you need (if any). Chances are, you’ll also need a VHF radio license.

3. TAKE A SAILING COURSE

Sailing schools are a great way to learn in a safe environment. You’ll get hands-on training plus all the equipment. You can learn in dinghies right the way up to sail training ships offshore! Many sailing schools will also provide routes to qualifications, essential if you ever want to work on sailboats.

4. JOIN A LOCAL CLUB

Local club membership lets you mingle with the sailing crowd. Your fellow club members can offer help, advice and experience. They can also be good drinking companions at the yacht club bar. Clubs often have casual racing nights too, where you can crew aboard club sailboats or on your own boat.

5. GET YOUR OWN PERSONAL EQUIPMENT

If you’re committed to learning how to sail, owning your own life jacket is a real bonus. Buy a modern, comfortable life jacket and take care of it. Owning your own means you always know its condition and will make it easier to crew on other people’s boats.

Waterproof sailing boots are also very useful. Check out waterproof sailing salopettes and a reliable jacket as well. If you want to learn to dinghy sail, a good quality wetsuit will be your best friend.

UNDERSTANDING THE WEATHER

6. LOOK UP THE BEAUFORT SCALE

Look up the Beaufort Scale and memorize it. This international scale gives the wind and water conditions in a Force of 1 to 12.

This means that not only will you be able to look out across the water and tell if the wind is increasing, but you’ll also sound like you know what you’re talking about.

7. CHECK LOCAL WEATHER

Local weather idiosyncrasies are beneficial to know. Is there a sea breeze that kicks in at 2 pm every day? Do strong gusts of wind whip down from your local mountain and across the water without warning? Asking your local sailing club can often furnish you with priceless knowledge.

8. STUDY FORECASTING

Sailing forecasting is a little different from land forecasting. Study sailing-specific forecasts and start following some well-known marine forecasters to get to grips with it. When you’re planning a sailing trip, you’ll often be looking at weather that’s happening thousands of miles away!

9. WATCH THE CLOUDS

There are lots of mariner rhymes about clouds and for good reason. Understanding what the clouds are telling you will transform your sailing ability. Certain clouds indicate strong winds, while some may either signal consistent good weather or nasty squalls approaching.

10. UNDERSTAND WEATHER PHENOMENA

Waterspouts, derechos and squalls can all come out of nowhere. Understanding what these are and how to deal with them will make your sailing a lot safer. Often, it’s just a case of taking down the sails and waiting it out!

UNDERSTANDING THE WATER

11. KNOW THE DIFFERENCE – SALTWATER OR FRESHWATER?

It sounds simple, but this is important to note. Saltwater will corrode and seize equipment, clothes and anything else in its way. Saltwater boats need considerable maintenance while freshwater can be more forgiving.

12. UNDERSTAND TIDES

From a staggering 30 feet tidal range to just one inch, tides are tricky creatures. If you’re learning to sail in a place with a discernible tidal range, this is one of the first things you need to understand. No one wants to be left high and dry!

13. LEARN YOUR LOCAL CURRENTS

Currents travel around lakes, seas and oceans. They can be very localized or seen on an oceanic scale like the Gulf Stream in the Atlantic. Generally speaking, you don’t want to be sailing against the current. Learn your local currents. Remember, they might switch direction at certain points in the day.

14. AVOID WIND-OVER-TIDE

Wind-over-tide is a potentially dangerous situation in which the wind is traveling in one direction and the tide is traveling in the other. This is worst when there is strong wind and strong opposing tide. It can cause nasty chops or even large standing waves. Since tides are predictable, always keep updated tide timetables on you to avoid wind-over-tide.

15. READ THE WATER

If you have dreams of sailing the Caribbean islands, reading the water is a skill that could save your life. Subtle changes in the water’s color will alert you to shallow reefs, wrecks and submerged rocks. This is especially important in narrow reef entrances and poorly charted areas.

SAFETY ABOARD

16. WATCH OUT FOR THE BOOM

That big metal pole that sticks out of the mast and holds the mainsail out? It swings. Booms can easily catch you unaware if the wind swings around or the boat turns and gybes.

They can easily knock you overboard and can even kill. Injury is easily avoided. Just don’t stand on it’s way and always gybe in a controlled manner. Look out for other on board hazards too. No one wants a finger trapped between a sheet and a winch!

17. KNOW WHERE THE SEACOCKS ARE LOCATED

Seacocks (gate valves) are located where there are openings in the hull below the waterline. Sink and toilet outflows as well the engine intake and outflow will all have seacocks. Usually, seacocks will be open and all it takes to close/seal them is a turn of the handle.

However, if a seacock fails, you’re suddenly looking at an unsealable hole in the boat. This is rare, but you should always know the location of every seacock onboard as these are the first culprits to check if you have a leak.

18. KNOW HOW TO HANDLE A FIRE ONBOARD

Fires are one of the most catastrophic occurrences on a boat. Many seasoned sailors would never even have candles lit on board. Boats are both flammable and meltable, so be very careful.

Also, have one or more fire extinguishers onboard. Make sure to position them in quick-grab places. Most importantly, ensure everyone onboard knows how to use them.

19. KNOW MAYDAY PROTOCOL

Knowing the Mayday protocol can save your life. Learn how to issue a Panpan and a Mayday. Know in what situations to use them. It’s a great idea to have a laminated Mayday card next to your VHF radio so you can read straight off it in an emergency.

20. HAVE A BILGE PUMP

Bilge pumps take any water from your bilge and pump it into the sea. If you have a leak or start taking on water for any reason, the bilge pumps could help prevent a sinking.

Many yachts have automatic bilge pumps, but you should always have a manual one just in case. If you’re dinghy sailing, you’ll need a plastic scoop and a quick arm!

SAFETY ON THE WATER

21. KNOW THE RIGHT OF WAY RULES

Knowing who has right of way will not only lower the risk of collision, it’ll also always mean you’re on the right side of the law. Read the international collision regulations and be aware that individual harbors and ports may have extra rules for right of way.

22. USE NAVIGATION LIGHTS

Being out of the water in the dark is a bad idea without lights. Lights not only show others where you are, their different colors also indicate which direction you are traveling. It’s good to check these are working, which might sometimes mean walking to the other end of the marina when they’re turned on.

23. LEARN HOW TO READ PAPER CHARTS

Lots of people rely solely on electronic charts these days, but what if your electrics fail? Owning and understanding paper charts will not only help you in sticky situations but it’ll also impress your fellow sailors.

24. LEARN HOW TO HANDLE GROUNDINGS

Grounding can happen to the best of us especially in tidal areas or places with roving sandbanks. Learning what to do in a grounding is a good idea and can save you from a lot of embarrassment.

25. LOOKOUT FOR FLOATING OBJECTS

The sea and lakes are filled with debris and it’s only getting worse. From logs and fishing floats to trawl nets and containers, hitting something on the water can be dangerous. Always look out for floating objects and check your propeller if you think you’ve caught a net.

EXTRA TIPS AND TRICKS

26. KNOW WHO’S IN CHARGE

You might find yourself sailing with buddies of equal experience but if the situation turns dangerous, too many voices will hamper your efforts. Before setting off, always agree on a captain. In serious situations, that’s the person who has the final word.

27. LEARN HOW TO DEAL WITH SEASICKNESS

Seasickness is many people’s biggest worry when it comes to sailing. It’s understandable. Various tactics work for different people. These could range from ginger biscuits to prescription tablets. Seasick people should be looked after, kept hydrated and be taken seriously.

28. STOCK UP ON FOOD AND WATER

Sailing is hungry work, so take a ready supply of food. Motion while sailing can make cooking or even reheating challenging so take easy to eat, high energy food. Plenty of drinking water is essential and should always be kept in at least two different storage containers in case of contamination.

29. STAY WARM

Sailing is colder than on land and the wind will make things even chillier. Don’t underestimate how cold it can be once it clouds over. The air is over the water. So, you should check the water temperature rather than the air temperature forecast. It’s way more reliable!

30. PRACTICE MAN OVERBOARD SITUATIONS

Falling overboard is probably the single most dangerous accident on a boat. It’s also very preventable. With life jackets and safety lines clipped to each person, you can minimize the risk of falling overboard.

Practicing for cases of having a man overboard is not only useful for emergencies, but it will also give you and others an impression of just how difficult rescuing a person could get. You can use a bucket tied to a fender for practice.

31. HAVE FUN!

Learning how to sail will give you the freedom to use the natural world to get around. Once you learn how to sail and understand the weather, you can visit hundreds of countries and islands around the world!

Even without your own boat, there are tons of liveaboard opportunities out there. The most important lesson is to relax and enjoy your surroundings. Also, keep a look out for dolphins!

The post 31 Sailing Tips For Beginners appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Everything from dampness and mold to dryness and seasonal changes in the atmosphere can affect the health of your skis. The last thing anyone wants is to find their bases dry and cracked or their top coats delaminating after spending the summer in storage. Taking a few simple steps is all you need to ensure your skis stay at tip-top condition.

TIPS ON HOW TO STORE SKIS

When the rivers start rising with meltwater, it’s time to leave the slopes and put your skis to bed for the summer. You spent a lot of time choosing your skis and now that winter is over, it’s imperative that you store them properly. This prevents them from degrading while not in use and keeps them shiny for next year!

Preparation for storage is fairly simple. You can either do it yourself or take your skis to a ski shop for a spa day. To do it yourself, all you really need is warm water, a cloth, a bronze or steel brush, a waxing iron and some wax. If you’ve been taking care of your skis all season, then you’ll probably already have everything.

CLEAN

Skis lead tough lives. In fact, even fresh powder isn’t as clean as it looks and spring snow is notoriously slushy and often mixed with dirt. If you keep your skis on the roof of your car while you drive to the mountain, then chances are there’s even salt embedded in your bases.

Cleaning your skis is super easy. You can just use water, a cloth and a bronze base brush. Depending on how house-proud you are, you can either wash down your skis in the shower or outside using a garden hose. Give the skis a good clean with water and your cloth, but avoid power hosing the bindings. You don’t want to push water into the binding mechanism.

Once your skis are dry, give them a gentle brush with the grain of the bases. Do this from top to bottom and not side to side. You can use a normal bronze or steel ski brush for this step. Brushing gets rid of the remaining dirt. Then, wipe the bases using a cloth.

ONE LAST TUNE

Rust is the enemy of skis, and the burrs in the edges can be a haven for this stuff. Sharpen your edges one last time using a proper edge tool to ensure they’re rust-free and will stay that way. Not only is this good end-of-season practice, but it also means you’ll have sharp edges ready to go next season!

Taking your skis to a ski shop for a service is another easy way to get them ready for summer storage. This is particularly good if your bases have seen much better days and need to be refreshed. In late spring, we often get tempted by that one last valley run even when there’s more grass than piste. A ski shop can take out those nasty grooves and sharpen your edges for you.

WAX

After cleaning and tuning, waxing your skis is a crucial step for summer storage preparation. A good layer of hot wax over the bases and edges will keep dampness out and prevent rust from gnawing away while you’re at the beach.

The key here is to apply a nice thick layer of wax and keep it there. All you need to do next season is scrape it off and you’re ready to go!

VIDEO: HOW TO TUNE SKIS PART 7- HOW TO PREPARE SKIS FOR SUMMER STORAGE

PROTECT THE BINDINGS

Your bindings serve as the middle man between you and your skis. Clever and intuitive creatures, bindings need care as well. Different people store their bindings in various ways, but the most straightforward style is just fine.

Do this by dialing down the DIN settings with a screwdriver to release tension. Ensure that they’re completely dry after a light cleaning.

STORAGE

This is the area where some people struggle. Skis are pretty large when it comes down to it. The natural reaction is just to shove them in the garage or attic and be done with it. But, temperature changes greatly affect skis and these storage places aren’t really the best options for them.

Essentially, your skis don’t want to deal with extreme temperature change. They definitely don’t want to get hot or damp as well. Storing skis is like storing biscuits. You should always make sure to keep them in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.

Attics and garages can get hot in the summer. Garages especially can get damp. Ideally, skis should be stored in the house like the place under your bed. As living spaces, houses generally have good temperature control. Besides, what suits you will also probably suit your skis.

Because many skis now have cambers and rockers, you need to ensure that they aren’t compressed at all. The easiest solution is often just storing them on their sides and sliding them under the bed. You can also strap them lightly together by their tips and tails as long as you aren’t altering their natural camber, rocker shape.

HOW TO STORE SKI ACCESSORIES

Skis aren’t the only thing you need to store carefully. While they’re certainly the most temperamental (and probably the most expensive items in your snow repertoire), don’t just store your skis and forget the rest of your stuff! Let’s quickly look at your other snow hardware. Besides, you shouldn’t forget to look after your ski jacket and pants too!

SKI BOOTS

Clean these well and remove the liner. Ensure that the liner and shell are thoroughly dry. Check that the shell buckles up loosely. As with skis, boots and liners should be stored in a cool dry place and not compressed at all.

Heat molded liners can lose their shape if stored somewhere too hot or somewhere that suffers from extreme temperature changes like a shed or attic. A closet is generally your best bet.

SKI POLES

A good clean and thorough drying will be good enough for these guys. Keep them away from dampness over the summer to prevent the formation of rust. Tying them together and storing them with your skis will prevent this common December question: “Where did I put my poles?”

GOGGLES

Ski goggles should be cleaned with either warm water and mild soap or a plastic lens cleaning solution. You should be able to easily look up the recommended solution for your goggle brand. A microfiber cloth, which is often included with your goggles, is ideal for cleaning and buffing your lenses.

Storing goggles after they’re clean and dry is often simply a case of putting them in their goggle cloth bag, hard case or even just the box they came with. Hard cases are ideal as they protect your goggles from knocks or getting moved over the summer.

As you can see, storing your skis for the summer isn’t difficult at all. A good clean and wax can easily get them ready by your next skiing adventure. Meanwhile, an out-of-the-way spot in the house keeps them dry and protected. Following the simple steps given in this article will ensure that your skis will be in full health for next season. Now, did someone say beach?

The post How To Store Skis – A Practical Guide appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

But, how much power will you need? Will your panels be able to keep up even on cloudy days? Do you plan to sail in cold water or deep in the tropics? Do you need the panels to sit on a curved surface? There’s a surprising amount of factors to consider when purchasing sailboat solar panels.

Whether you’re replacing old panels or buying for the first time, let us do the hard work of comparing the best solar panels for your boat.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Wind Generators for Sailboats. 

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SOLAR PANELS FOR SAILBOATS 

1. Nature Power Monocrystalline
2. Nature Power Rigid
3. Renogy Starter Kit (4 panels)
4. Newpowa Poly Solar Panel
5. Acopower Polycrystalline
6. Nature Power 90W Rigid
7. Newpowa 150W
8. Suaoki SunPower
9. Eco-Worthy Semi-Flexible

SAILBOAT SOLAR PANEL REVIEWS

NATURE POWER MONOCRYSTALLINE

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon | West Marine

NATURE POWER RIGID

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon | West Marine

RENOGY STARTER KIT (PACK OF 4 PANELS)

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

NEWPOWA POLY SOLAR PANEL

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

ACOPOWER POLYCRYSTALLINE

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

NATURE POWER 90W RIGID

NEWPOWA 150W

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

SUAOKI SUNPOWER

ECO-WORTHY SEMI-FLEXIBLE

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SOLAR PANELS FOR SAILBOATS 

PICTURE	SOLAR PANEL	BEST USE	WATTS/AMPS	SIZE (EACH PANEL)	PRICE	RATING
	Nature Power Monocrystalline	OVERALL	120W/6.6A	45.1” x 33.6” x 3”	$$$	4.6
	Nature Power Rigid	OVERALL	165W/9.4A	57.8” x 26.3” x 1.4”	$$$	4.7
	Renogy Starter Kit (4 panels)	OVERALL	400W/22A	4 x 47.0” x 21.3” x 2.0”	$$$	4.9
	Newpowa Poly Solar Panel	TRICKLE-CHARGING	30W/1.7A	27.0” x 14.3” x 1.9”	$	4.7
	Acopower Polycrystalline	TRICKLE-CHARGING	35W/2A	29.9” x 16.1” x 1.7”	$	4.5
	Nature Power 90W Rigid	MAIN PANEL	90W/4.9A	33.7” x 26.5” x 1.0”	$$	4.8
	Newpowa 150W	MAIN PANEL	150W/8.3A	58.4” x 26.6” x 1.2”	$$	4.6
	Suaoki SunPower	BUDGET	100W/5.6A	43.3” x 22.4” x 0.1”	$$	4.4
	Eco-Worthy Semi-Flexible	BUDGET	100W/5.5A	47.4” x 21.6” x 0.1”	$$	4.6
PICTURE	SOLAR PANEL	BEST USE	WATTS/AMPS	SIZE (EACH PANEL)	PRICE	RATING

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST SOLAR PANELS FOR SAILBOATS

1. REQUIRED ENERGY

Buying solar panels for your sailboat involves more than going over a few models at random. You need to know how much power you’ll need daily. Also, you need to determine whether you will rely solely on solar power or use the engine as well.

SOLAR AND ENGINE

Will you use solar power most of or all the time? If yes, then you will need higher power, larger or more solar panels. If you plan to use the engine more, then you won’t need as much solar power.

Your sailing goals come into play in this decision. If you want to cruise the intercoastal waterways, chances are you’ll be using your engine a lot. If you plan on cruising the Caribbean, you can often rely on good winds for sailing.

AMP DRAW

Once you’ve worked out how you plan on powering your sailboat – solar and engine, or just solar – you’ll need to work out your daily amp draw. If you’ll be running a fridge, freezer, water maker, VHF and SAT NAV all day long, you’re definitely going to need a lot of power!

It can be difficult to determine how many amps your sailboat will need, especially if you still don’t have all the electronics you plan to bring on board. Some products will give you an idea of their power draw in their technical specifications. For others that don’t provide that information, you may have to settle for an estimate.

Once you have an idea of your daily amp draw, then you can work out the solar output required to keep up with that power draw. But there are other considerations too, namely, actual output vs maximum output.

ACTUAL OUTPUT VS MAXIMUM OUTPUT

While a 90W solar panel might sound like it’ll give out 90W, remember that this is its maximum output. That is, it refers to a clean panel in full sunshine. It won’t be giving anywhere near that output on cloudy days. In the case of a fixed panel, ask yourself if the sail will be casting a shadow over it on one tack.

Unless you plan on running the engine to top up the batteries on cloudy days, you will find yourself needing enough solar panel output for these times. Make sure to also consider the times when your panels aren’t giving out their optimum performance.

TEMPERATURE CHANGES

If you’re starting in Nova Scotia, your fridge won’t take much power to keep it at a cool temperature. But, what happens when you sail south to go diving in Mexico? Suddenly, the water temperature is higher and the fridge would have to work twice as hard to stay cool. While good insulation is a bonus on a sailboat, it’s important to remember that atmospheric changes like temperature may mean an increase (or decrease) in your power requirement.

ARE WE TALKING AMPS OR WATTS?

While you need to know how many amps your sailboat will draw on a daily basis, solar panels are sold by watts. There’s no need for that to be confusing though, as we’ve also provided the amps in the chart. You can read more about watts and amps to get a better understanding.

2. HOW MANY SOLAR PANELS DO YOU NEED?

Many sailboats have more than one solar panel. This means you won’t need to move the panels to follow the sun or as the boat shifts at anchor. Having multiple solar panels also allows you to have smaller panels, which tend to get in the way less. Your required power output can be divided among them as well.

If you need 200W a day, then you could have three 90W solar panels on different parts of the boat and be covered power-wise, even on different tacks.

3. SIZE

How much space do you have on deck? Where you place your solar panels is very boat and sailor dependent. Day-sailing in hot places? Solar panels on the bimini rack are an easy solution. Long-distance cruising? You’ll need solar panels that are efficient yet out of the way to improve windward performance.

If you spend a large amount of time on board, your energy consumption will be higher. You’ll need your solar panels to be as efficient as possible. Many cruisers have panels on top of gantries on the stern to keep them in sunshine all the time. This is terrible for sailing performance, so you have to think about where you want to compromise. Don’t forget to consider the other on-deck items, such as your paddle board, as well.

4. TYPE

Solar panels generally come in two types: mono- and multicrystalline and amorphous thin film silicone. However, all solar panels listed in this article will be mono- or multicrystalline as they are the most effective.

MONO- AND MULTI-CRYSTALLINE

Efficient and sturdy, these panels will probably make up your core solar panel collection. For everything on board like lights, fridge, radio and navigation electrics, mono-and multicrystalline are your best bets. They aren’t forgiving on cloudy days though, and even a shadow over the corner of a panel will pull down the output by a lot.

AMORPHOUS THIN FILM SILICONE

Not as efficient as crystalline panels, amorphous panels are cheaper and flexible. They’re good for trickle-charging batteries while the boat is left unattended.

5. COST

Solar panels are expensive, but their prices have been dropping over the years. If you only use your sailboat for summer weekends, chances are you won’t need pricey, hyper-efficient panels. You just need enough to keep up with your power consumption for two days a week and let the trickle-charge solar panel do the rest.

Take your solar panel budget and split it between the number of solar panels you think you’ll need. Keep in mind though that you’ll most likely need to buy a charge controller as well.

The post Best Solar Panels For Sailboats of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Just by closing your eyes it’s easy to feel the wind on your face as your sailboat begins to heel over. As the sails catch the wind and the boat accelerates forward, it’s time to ease the sheets a little. This is where the winch takes over. Weak, undersized or seized winches can spell disaster. If yours are getting old, it could well be time to replace them.

We’ll help you sort out what’s good, what’s not, and what the difference is. Keep reading to find your perfect sailboat winches.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailboat Anchors.

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILBOAT WINCHES

1. Lewmar Two-Speed
2. Harken Radial
3. Andersen Two-Speed
4. Harken Two-Speed
5. Lewmar Evolution Electric
6. Antal Two-Speed
7. Lewmar Two-Speed Non-Self-Tailing
8. Andersen One-Speed
9. Lewmar One-Speed
10. Harken Single Speed

SAILBOAT WINCH REVIEWS

LEWMAR TWO-SPEED

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

HARKEN RADIAL

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

ANDERSEN TWO-SPEED

HARKEN TWO-SPEED

LEWMAR EVOLUTION ELECTRIC

ANTAL TWO-SPEED

LEWMAR TWO-SPEED NON-SELF-TAILING

ANDERSEN ONE-SPEED

Check out the latest price on:
Amazon

LEWMAR ONE-SPEED

HARKEN SINGLE-SPEED

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILBOAT WINCHES

PICTURE	WINCH	BEST USE	SELF-TAILING	MATERIAL	PRICE	RATING
	Lewmar Two-Speed	Overall	Yes	Anodized aluminum	$$	4.7
	Harken Radial	Overall	Yes	Chromed bronze	$$$	4.9
	Andersen Two-Speed	Overall	Yes	Stainless Steel	$$	4.4
	Harken Two-Speed	Primary winch	Yes	Anodized aluminum	$$$	5.0
	Lewmar Evolution Electric	Primary winch	Yes	Anodized aluminum	$$$	4.5
	Antal Two-Speed	Primary winch	Yes	Chromed bronze	$$	4.3
	Lewmar Two-Speed Non-Self-Tailing	Mast	No	Chromed bronze	$	4.1
	Andersen One-Speed	Mast	No	Stainless Steel	$	4.0
	Lewmar One-Speed	Budget	No	Anodized aluminum	$	4.4
	Harken Single Speed	Budget	Yes	Anodized aluminum	$	4.6
PICTURE	WINCH	BEST USE	SELF-TAILING	MATERIAL	PRICE	RATING

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST SAILBOAT WINCHES

1. HOW MANY WINCHES DO YOU NEED?

Well made winches can last for many decades but can need replacing for several reasons. Winch technology has moved on and you may want to replace non-self-tailing winches for self-tailing ones. Or your winches may simply be corroding or weakening through age.

It’s often easy to find out how many winches you need by simply counting the existing ones on your sailboat. Rarely used winches may be in much better condition than the same age highly used winches. This allows you to retain rarely used old winches and put the saved money into buying better quality new winches. While that liveaboard boat you hung out on may have had ten winches, chances are, a small yacht will only have two to seven.

Knowing how many winches you need allows you to stick to your budget more closely. You probably won’t need every winch to be the same either. With self-tailing winches ideal for cockpit primary winches, winches on the mast often don’t need to be self-tailing. Further savings can be made from understanding what type of winches you need.

2. DO YOU WANT SELF-TAILING WINCHES?

For short-handed sailors, self-tailing winches are all but essential. In fact, having primary self-tailing winches regardless of your crew size will make the cruising sailboat an easy place to be. Of course, if you have a really big yacht, you can use two-way radios to give winchman instructions!

On sailboats where some lines are lead back to the mast and not to the cockpit (i.e. many older sailboats), you don’t need self-tailing winches on the mast. Often you can just get away with a non-self-tailing winch and a cleat nearby.

Sheet winches should ideally be self-tailing while halyard winches can be non-self-tailing.

3. GEARS

Winches give you leverage with which to pull in the sails but in particularly strong winds or racing conditions, extra leverage is required. Geared winches provide this extra leverage. With one to four gears, geared winches are also excellent for taking the load for hobby sailors, older sailors and even enthusiastic children!

For an ordinary cruising sailboat (even those who do a spot of club racing), you’ll be choosing between one-speed and two-speed geared and non-geared winches. Three- and four-speed winches are only used by powerful racing boats.

ONE-SPEED

One-speed winches that aren’t geared are the cheapest type of winch and only suitable for small sailboats or as on-mast winches.Each turn of the winch handle equals one turn of the drum, making these unsuitable for large loads.

Geared one-speed winches offer greater mechanical leverage and the handle is ratcheted when turning in the opposite direction. This gives you more power for less movement when cranking up that sail to windward.

TWO-SPEED

Two-speed winches allow the handle to travel in either direction at different speeds. This is great for fast winching with one speed and then switching winching direction for a lower speed as the sail comes in. Two-speed winches typically are geared in one direction and not in the other.

Geared two-speed winches are the same except they are geared in both directions. For the average cruising sailboat or daysailor, geared two-speed primary cockpit winches are the best option. This is especially true for single- or double-handed sailing.

4. MATERIAL

Winches come in different materials. The differences are primarily based on weight, quality, and price.

ANODIZED ALUMINUM

Super lightweight and affordable, anodized aluminum winches are a popular choice on sailboats.

CHROMED BRONZE

Bronze is extremely hardwearing, making it a good choice on sailboats. Bronze was the traditional material for winches but it looks outdated on modern yachts. Chromed bronze makes the most of the durable bronze but adds a modern look with a chrome outer layer. These are pricey but excellent winches.

STAINLESS STEEL

If you’re looking for the best and most durable winches, stainless steel is the way to go. It also looks great and it’s extremely strong. If you look after your stainless steel winches, you may never need to replace them.

COMPOSITE

Composite boat parts are increasing every year although many traditional sailors prefer metal. Composites are actually very strong, very durable and are impervious to corrosion. The main composite material used in winches (and seacocks) is Marelon. Expensive, but you’ll probably never need to replace them.

5. ELECTRIC WINCHES

Manual winches work by human strength combined with mechanical leverage. For small sailboats, the average sailor will be perfectly happy with manual winches. However, electric winches are becoming more popular and can certainly be of benefit.

Electric winches have a motor placed above-deck or below-deck. Using buttons, electric winches grind the rope for you and some will even release it for you as well.

The main downside of electric winches is their power consumption. As a sailor, you obviously don’t want to be forced to run your engine often just to charge the batteries for your winches! Always check your house battery capacity and work out how much power the winches will use on your typical sailing trips.

Electric winches also have the capacity to act as manual winches in combination with a standard winch handle. This is important because if your batteries or electrical system fails, it’s imperative that you are able to still operate your winches if you’re under sail.

CONVERSION OPTION

Some sailors want manual winches but would like to have the option to convert those winches to electric. Winches can last many decades and as sailors age, having the option of electric conversion can be reassuring.

6. SIZE

Size is another important consideration and is based on boat size and sail area. You can often determine your winch size merely by your existing winches but the main providers also provide charts. Lewmar winch size chart is an excellent resource as is the Harken winch size guide.

The post Best Sailboat Winches of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

When you’re starting out skiing, it’s a great idea to understand the different types and where you might end up in the sport. This means you can buy the right gear and practice the techniques that will get you further, faster. It’s an added bonus that when someone asks you if you ‘freestyle’, you won’t have to give them a blank stare.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, it’s our job to eliminate those I-have-no-idea moments. So read on to get a feel for the different types of skiing you could find yourself doing!

Fundamentally, all types of skiing are the same. You attach your feet to two sticks and move through snow. But that’s where the fundamentals end. Some skiing is downhill, some is flat terrain and some is even uphill. Some skiing suits adrenaline junkies while other types are great for some casual exercise on a Sunday afternoon. The great thing about this varied sport though is that there’s a type of skiing for everyone.

TYPES OF SKIING YOU SHOULD KNOW

ALPINE

Alpine, or downhill, is the most common type of skiing. Alpine skiers are almost always in resorts or pisted valleys. They use chairlifts, gondolas and button lifts to reach the tops of pistes. Every night the pistes are groomed and the first skiers up the lift in the morning benefit from fresh slopes.

Most skiers learn, to some extent, on piste. With graded runs, from easy to expert, learning to ski on piste means you can choose your gradient and have a clear run. All resorts have ski schools and ski hire shops, making it even easier to learn on piste.

Alpine skiers use boots that clip into alpine bindings and are fixed at the toe and the heel. In a fall, the bindings automatically help to eject the boot to prevent leg injuries.

BACKCOUNTRY

Backcountry is a pretty wide-ranging term that covers all skiing that is in the mountains but not on piste. Ski-touring also comes under the term backcountry as does long-distance ski-touring hut-to-hut.

Because backcountry skiing isn’t in a resort, it often involves hiking or ski-touring up mountains before skiing down lines that you choose yourself. Some off-piste skiers use resort chairlifts to get high up before ski-touring further outside of the resort to ski.

Backcountry is a very flexible type of skiing because the entire mountain range is a skier’s play area. In fact, once backcountry skiers have assessed the avalanche risks, the only limitation is their means of hiking to the top. Heli-skiing is another way to reach the heights of backcountry regions.

Backcountry skiers (or ski-tourers) mostly use alpine touring (AT) bindings or tech bindings. These bindings allow the heel to remain free while the toe stays attached to allow easy walking with skis. Ski-tourers ascend the mountain using their skis to walk with skins on the bases to grip the snow. Some backcountry skiers hike instead, carrying their alpine skis or go cat- or heli-skiing.

CROSS-COUNTRY

Cross-country skiing (also called XC or Nordic) is a form of skiing that takes place on much flatter terrain than alpine and backcountry. In fact, cross-country skiers tend not to go downhill at all. Developed as a practical form of transport, some people still use cross-country skis to get from A to B today.

There are two typical styles of cross-country skiing, a striding motion, and a skating motion. Cross-country skiing takes place in landscapes covered in snow and doesn’t need mountains, making it a great sport for those who don’t live near mountain ranges but have snowy winters.

Cross-country skiers use long, elbow-height poles to propel themselves along and while it can be a leisurely sport, it can also be extremely tough. With specific cross-country bindings and boots that allow the heel to be freely lifted, the equipment for this type of skiing cannot be used for any other type of skiing.

FREESTYLE

A relatively new type of skiing, freestyle is a much more playful sport. Using features on pistes, park and half pipes, freestyle skiers see the whole resort as their playground. With jibs, jumps, and rotations, freestyle skiers make everything look cooler.

Freestyle is a natural evolution of alpine and park skiing and freestyle skiers have combined the two. Taking park skills onto the piste and even into the backcountry arena, this is a constantly evolving style that is growing in popularity.

Freestyle skiers use alpine bindings and alpine skis, often with twin tips. This is where the tips and tails of the skis are turned up to allow skiers to go backward as well as forwards.

French freestyle skier Candide Thovex has really helped put freestyle skiing on the map in recent years, both in resort and in the backcountry.

VIDEO: ONE OF THOSE DAYS – CANDIDE THOVEX

RACE

Slalom and mogul ski racing is a common sport in Europe especially. Usually short race courses, plenty of ski towns have their own local teams and children start from a young age.

Really a type of alpine skiing, race skiing is a fun weekend hobby and will certainly improve your turns and control. Slalom skiers use race poles without powder baskets and are seen sporting lycra and shin pads.

TELEMARK

With many similarities to ski-touring, telemark skiers also have a free heel, making ski-touring possible. The difference is in the downhill. Telemark skiers retain the free heel while going downhill whereas ski-tourers can clip their heel into their bindings, effectively turning them into downhill bindings.

Not only do tele-skiers have a free heel, they also ski with one ski forward of the other with the back knee dropped and the back heel up. This technique is also how ski jumpers land.

Tele-skiing is a different technique to alpine skiing as your heels can lift even when going downhill. Because it involves dropping a knee continuously, you’ll soon develop thighs of steel. While the technique can be tricky to learn, once you’ve got it down it’s akin to nothing you’ve ever experienced. You’ll feel like you’re flying.

While telemark skiing is on the rise, it’s still a fairly close-knit community and if you start tele-skiing, every other tele-skier on the slope will be your new friend.

CHOOSING YOUR SKIING TYPE

The great thing about there being multiple types of skiing is that they are all complimentary. If you’re taking a holiday in a ski resort or ski town then, chances are, you can give most of them a go in the same week!

Plenty of resorts have easy off-piste areas that are marked and ski patrolled. This gives alpine beginners a great opportunity to try a little off-piste or backcountry. Ski towns will often have ski-touring guides who will hire you all the gear and take you out ski-touring to areas within your ability.

It doesn’t stop there either, with the rise of artificial snow domes, you can learn to alpine ski even if you have no snow within hundreds of miles. If you’re lucky enough to live in a snowy region then joining a local ski club is a great way to try different types of skiing and meet other skiers.

Almost all skiers will either start alpine skiing or cross-country skiing as all other types of skiing branch out from these. The most important thing is to get clipped in and get started. Soon the whole spectrum of skiing will be your playground!

The post A Beginner’s Guide To Types Of Skiing appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.