We have written this guide to help you understand what to look out for and decide which kind of rack you need for your vehicle. We have also made some suggestions of the best racks available to help you make a decision.

For more of our top mountain biking gear recommendations, check out the Best MTB Hydration Packs.

Reviews - The Best Racks for Mountain Bikes

Thule Insta-Gater Pro

Specs

• Bike Capacity: 1

PROS: Quick installation and mounting, wheels do not need to be removed and the frame is not clamped, stable even on uneven roads

CONS: Only holds one bike (up to three can be used alongside each other), not compatible with short beds

View at Backcountry

Fox Tailgate Cover

Specs

• Bike Capacity: 6

PROS: Easy installation, small and large sizes available

CONS: None

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Thule ProRide

Specs

• Bike Capacity: 1

PROS: Fast and easy mounting, automatic positioning, clamp spreads loads to avoid damage

CONS: Only holds one bike (more can be used alongside each other), unclear installation instructions

View at Amazon

Kuat Transfer 2

Specs

• Bike Capacity: 2

PROS: Sturdy, will not damage frames, almost any bike will fit, can be pivoted away to allow access to vehicle

CONS: Can be tricky to align wide handlebars

View at Amazon

Sea Sucker Talon

Specs

• Bike Capacity: 1

PROS: Innovative design uses sucker pads to stick to the roof, can be easily installed on almost any vehicle

CONS: No peace of mind that it is actually attached properly

View at Amazon

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE RACK

MOUNTING TYPE

ROOF MOUNT

Roof mounts are secure and have the advantage of not getting in the way of the trunk. You do have to be careful when driving under bridges because you have extra height on your vehicle.

It is easy to forget this and it is critical that you do not just drive straight into your garage when you get home as the door will almost certainly not be tall enough. The consequences are a seriously damaged or destroyed bike and car. Fortunately, there are some solutions to help remind you.

TOW BAR

If you have a tow bar, there are racks that will fit it. They are sturdy but often come with a higher price tag.

STRAP MOUNT

If you do not have a tow bar and cannot fit a roof mount to your vehicle, then a strap mount will almost certainly fit on your trunk. Although very compatible, strap mounts are less stable when going over bumps and the stored bikes are easy targets for thieves.

TRUCK BED / TAILGATE MOUNTS

Pickup trucks can transport bikes in the bed with more elegant solutions than just throwing them in. There are mounts that fit in the bed itself and mats that lay over the tailgate to which bikes can be attached.

STABILITY

Your chosen type of bike rack should have a stable connection to your vehicle and hold the bikes securely in place. You do not want your bikes to be wobbling around as you drive around bends.

It is important that you focus on driving safely rather than thinking about whether your bike is going to stay on the rack or not. Consider additional methods of securing your bike.

SECURITY

How easy would it be for a thief to remove a bike and steal it? Some racks have additional security features like locking bars. Regardless, it is a good idea to always keep your vehicle in sight when bikes are mounted on it.

EASE OF USE

If you will be loading bikes onto your rack every day, then you are very lucky to be able to ride so often! Regular use means you will enjoy having a rack that is easy to load bikes on to. If you will only use your rack occasionally, then you will probably not mind a longer mounting process.

THE VALUE OF YOUR BIKE

If you have spent a lot of money on your bike, then you should think twice about buying a cheap rack. The more you spend, the lower the chances of your pride and joy falling off.

Remember that your bike will be battered by a fair bit of dust and debris while on the rack. It is, therefore, important to clean it once you get home.

The post Best Mountain Bike Racks of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Here is the best part about it: it technically does not count as doing nothing. By watching movies featuring the best mountain bikers in the world, you will be inspired to ride faster, harder and longer. You will also pick up tips and tricks to help you do so. So next time it is pouring rain or your legs just cannot face any more pedaling, kick back on the couch with some of our favorite mountain bike movies.

MTB HISTORY MOVIES

KLUNKERZ

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NO WAY HANS REY

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CINEMATIC MTB MOVIES

UNREAL

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VICIOUS CYCLE – A REAL MOUNTAIN BIKE MOVIE

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INSTRUCTIONAL MTB MOVIES

FLUIDRIDE FLOW-TONIC

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FUNDAMENTALS MOUNTAIN BIKE TECHNIQUE

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INSPIRATIONAL MTB MOVIES

DEATHGRIP

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EARTHED 3

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RAD COMPANY

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ROAM

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The post 10 Of The Best Mountain Bike Movies Of All Time appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

At The Adventure Junkies we want you to be able to properly maintain your bikes and enjoy riding them. We have written this guide to the best chain lubes to help you keep your pride and joy running smooth and maximize the life of your drivetrain components.

For more of our top mountain biking gear recommendations, check out the Best MTB Chains. 

Reviews - The Best Chain Lubes for MTB

Finish Line Dry

Specs

• Best For: Dry

PROS: Mix of synthetic oils and teflon to create a wax like finish, long lasting for a dry lube

CONS: None

View at REI

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Boeshield T-9

Specs

• Best For: Dry

PROS: Long lasting

CONS: Needs two hours to dry

View at REI

View at Jenson USA

Muc-Off Dry

Specs

• Best For: Dry

PROS: Wax based, quiet and smooth shifting, biodegradable

CONS: None

View at Backcountry

View at Jenson USA

Finish Line Wet

Specs

• Best For: Wet

PROS: Long lasting wet weather lubricant, repels water, resists salt

CONS: None

View at REI

View at Evo

Muc-Off Wet

Specs

• Best For: Wet

PROS: Long lasting in wet conditions

CONS: None

View at REI

Pedro’s ChainJ

Specs

• Best For: Wet

PROS: Made from renewable materials, biodegradeable

CONS: None

View at REI

View at Backcountry

Rock N Roll Gold

Specs

• Best For: Wet

PROS: Cleans the chain when applied, long lasting, chains last longer

CONS: None

View at Backcountry

View at Jenson USA

Muc-Off Team Sky Hydrodynamic

Specs

• Best For: Dry and Wet

PROS: The ultimate lube for all conditions, very impressive performance

CONS: Price

View at Amazon

ProGold Xtreme

Specs

• Best For: Dry and Wet

PROS: Removes water, sticks strongly to the chain, will not attract dirt even in wet conditions

CONS: None

View at Backcountry

View at Jenson USA

Park Tool CL-1 Synthetic Blend

Specs

• Best For: Dry and Wet

PROS: Removes water, sticks strongly to the chain, will not attract dirt even in wet conditions

CONS: None

View at Jenson USA

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE CHAIN LUBES

WET OR DRY LUBE

The choice between a wet or a dry lube comes down to the conditions that you will be riding in. A wet lube can be used in all conditions but is absolutely necessary for wet weather or winter riding.

A wet lube is water resistant so won’t be blasted off by rain or when you smash through puddles and streams. The lube remains wet on the chain and as a result dirt will stick to it.

Consequently, you will need to regularly clean the chain and drivetrain, otherwise the dirt will build up and wear the parts out faster. You should be able to get at least 100 miles of riding from one application of wet lube.

A dry lube should only be used when riding on dry trails. The lubricant in a dry lube is mixed with a solvent that dries on the chain, leaving only the lubricant behind. Dirt will not stick to it once it has dried. You will not have to clean the drivetrain as regularly but you will need to reapply the lube more often. You will be lucky to ride 80 miles before it has been completely removed.

WAX OR CERAMIC LUBE

Wax lubes are good at not attracting dirt but need reapplying for frequently. 50 miles of use is standard for a wax lube. Ceramic lube will last longer, even in wet conditions but tends to be more expensive.

ONLY LUBE A CLEAN AND DRY CHAIN

It does not help to dump a load of lube on top of old lube mixed with dirt. All you will get is even more dirty lube mixed with grit to wear away at your drivetrain. The minimum you should do to clean your bike after a ride is wipe off the chain with a cloth and degreaser before allowing it to dry and applying fresh lube.

After every several rides in summer and after every ride in winter it is recommended to thoroughly degrease the chain with a chain cleaning tool.

You can also use chain lube on other parts of your bike, as this article on bicycling.com explains.

The post Best MTB Chain Lubes of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, we do not want you to be confused when it comes to choosing your equipment. We have written this article for you so you can learn what makes a good saddle bag and what you need to look out for. We have also included a list of what we think are the best saddle bags so you don’t have to do all the research yourself.

For more of our top mountain biking gear recommendations, check out the Best Mountain Bike Racks. 

 

Quick Answer - The Best Mountain Bike Saddle Bags

1. Evoc Saddle Bag

   View at Backcountry
2. Topeak Aero Expanding Wedge

   View at REI
3. Topeak Wedge DryBag Large

   View at REI
4. Ortlieb Micro

   View at Backcountry
5. Ortlieb Seat-Pack

   View at REI
6. Defiance Pak Ratt 2

   View at Amazon
7. Topeak Back Loader

   View at Amazon

 

Comparison Table - Best MTB Saddle Bags

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Name	Capacity	Waterproof?	Price	Rating	Review
Evoc Saddle Bag	1L	No	$	5.0	Read Review
Topeak Aero Expanding Wedge	1.31 L	No	$	4.0	Read Review
Topeak Wedge DryBag Large	1.5L	Yes	$	5.0	Read Review
Ortlieb Micro	0.6L	Yes	$$	4.5	Read Review
Ortlieb Seat-Pack	16.5L	Yes	$$	3.8	Read Review
Defiance Pak Ratt 2	15L	No	$$	4.0	Read Review
Topeak Back Loader	6L	Yes	$$	4.0	Read Review
Name	Capacity	Waterproof?	Price	Rating	Review

Reviews - The Best Saddle Bags for Mountain Biking

Evoc Saddle Bag

Specs

• Capacity: 1L
• Waterproof?: No

BEST FOR: OVERALL

PROS: Stylish, durable rip stop nylon, light

CONS: None

View at Backcountry

View at Jenson USA

Topeak Aero Expanding Wedge

Specs

• Capacity: 1.31 L
• Waterproof?: No

BEST FOR: TOOLS

PROS: Expanding compartment to carry more gear, internal elastic secures contents

CONS: Attachment can be tricky

View at REI

View at Jenson USA

Topeak Wedge DryBag Large

Specs

• Capacity: 1.5L
• Waterproof?: Yes

BEST FOR: BUDGET

PROS: Waterproof material and roll closure to keep contents dry, 3 sizes available

CONS: Rigid material makes noise if items inside are loose

View at REI

Ortlieb Micro

Specs

• Capacity: 0.6L
• Waterproof?: Yes

BEST FOR: TOOLS

PROS: Roll closure to remove extra space, reflective logo

CONS: Opening is small

View at Backcountry

Ortlieb Seat-Pack

Specs

• Capacity: 16.5L
• Waterproof?: Yes

BEST FOR: BIKEPACKING

PROS: Large capacity, roll closure, waterproof

CONS: Heavy items need to be packed close to the saddle otherwise it will sway

View at REI

Defiance Pak Ratt 2

Specs

• Capacity: 15L
• Waterproof?: No

BEST FOR: BUDGET

PROS: Roll closure, robust material

CONS: Not waterproof, buckles are prone to breaking

View at Amazon

Topeak Back Loader

Specs

• Capacity: 6L
• Waterproof?: Yes

BEST FOR: BACKPACKING

PROS: Mount and compression straps prevent swaying, included waterproof liner keeps contents dry

CONS: Dry bag is not the same shape as external bag

View at Amazon

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE SADDLE BAGS

SIZE AND USE

The first thing you need to think about is how much gear you need to transport. Do you just want somewhere to stash your tools on your regular rides so you can leave the rucksack at home? If this is the case then you will only need a small bag to fit a spare tube, multitool and maybe a CO2 inflator. A pump is unlikely to fit but can be attached to your frame.

If you want to go on longer rides without your rucksack, then you might need a slightly larger bag to hold a jacket or snacks. Remember that if the bag is only half full, then the contents will rattle around. The consequences of this are not dire, but you may have to put up with the sound of tools jingling around. If your bag is not full, consider wrapping your multitool in a cloth or wrap your spare tube around it to reduce noise.

Large saddle bags are generally used for bikepacking when you need to transport extra layers, camping equipment and food. On a bikepacking trip, you are unlikely to be able to fit everything you need into one saddle bag, even if it the biggest available. For this reason you should also take a rucksack and consider using other frame bags or handlebar bags. Check out this article to learn more about how to set up your bike for bikepacking and www.cyclingabout.com have a great overview of some recent tech that has entered the bikepacking market.

MATERIAL

Due to its position on the bike, a saddle bag will be constantly bombarded with dirt, stones, mud and water that get kicked up by the rear wheel. You want your bag to be made out a material that can put up with this abuse. Unless you are OK with the contents of the bag getting wet, you should also look for a bag that is at least water resistant or waterproof. This is especially important when bikepacking because you do not want your warm camp clothes to be soaking wet when you need them to keep you warm. The same goes for your sleeping bag.

SADDLE ATTACHMENT

How securely the bag attaches to the saddle or seatpost is important for two reasons. The first is that you do not want your bag to fall off while you are riding. This shouldn’t be a problem with any good quality bag however. A problem that bigger bags encounter is that the more they extend rearwards, the more they sway from side to side while you are riding. This can be very annoying. If you are looking for a bikepacking saddle bag, choose one that has been specifically designed not to sway. Some have additional braces to prevent it, but you can play your part too by packing the heaviest items nearest to the saddle.

DROPPER POST COMPATIBILITY

Some bags are designed to work with dropper posts. Others may work with them but it is not guaranteed and some manufacturers with discourage using their bags with dropper posts. The reason for this is the extra weight and forces that big bags can exert on the seat post.

BIKE FIT

If you ride a hardtail, you can just strap a bag on and get riding. If you are on a full suspension bike, then you will need to think about if a bag will fit before you purchase. As the shock compresses, the distance between the rear wheel and saddle decreases. Depending on how much travel you have and how high your saddle is (especially if you have a dropper post), there may not be enough space for a saddle bag when the shock is fully compressed. You can check how much space you have by releasing all the air from your shock and letting it compress. Measure the distance between the saddle and tire.

The post Best Mountain Bike Saddle Bags of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, we want you to be able to carry out minor maintenance tasks on your bike so we have written this guide to help you adjust your gears the next time they need some attention.

Fortunately, once you have gotten your head around what each of the screws on a derailleur does, adjusting your gears is not as hard as it might sound. If you are unfamiliar with the different components, have a look at the explanation below of each of the parts that make up your bike’s gears.

CHAINRING: The cog or cogs attached to the cranks.

CASSETTE: The nest of cogs on your back wheel.

DERAILLEUR: This is the moving part that pushes the chain from one cog or chainring to another.

LIMIT SCREWS: These screws decide how far the derailleur can move. There is an upper and a lower screw. They need to be properly set, otherwise, the derailleur will push the chain too far or not far enough. If a chain falls between the cassette and spokes, the chain or wheel can get damaged.

B LIMIT SCREW: This adjusts how far below the cassette the derailleur hangs.

SHIFTER: Attached to the handlebar, a shifter pulls or releases a cable attached to the derailleur, making it move the chain between cogs.

INNER CABLE: A metal wire connected to the shifter and derailleur

OUTER CABLE: The inner cable runs through an outer cable to help keep it tight.

Now you know what each of the parts are and what they do, you can follow the instructions to adjust your gears. You will need hex keys and possibly a screwdriver.

Putting your bike in a workstand will make your life much easier. Thoroughly clean your bike before getting started as this will make working on it much more pleasant. Furthermore, dirty components can be the cause of poor shifting.

HOW TO ADJUST THE REAR DERAILLEUR – 7 STEPS

STEP 1: MOVE THE CHAIN TO SMALLEST COG

Use your shifter and turn the pedals to move the chain onto the smallest cog. If it won’t move that far, then leave it as far as it will go.

STEP 2: ADJUST THE BARREL ADJUSTER

On the shifter, where the cable goes into the body, you will find a barrel adjuster. This is a screw that can be tightened or loosened to adjust cable tension. Screw it all the way in and then unscrew it a couple of turns.

STEP 3: UNSCREW THE BOLD HOLDING THE CABLE IN PLACE ON THE DERAILLEUR

Unscrew the bolt holding the cable in place on the derailleur. Turn the pedals and use your hand to push the derailleur towards the spokes. It should not be possible to push the chain further than the biggest cog. If this is possible, then you need to adjust the limit screw.

If you are lucky, the screw will be marked with an L. If not, you may need to look up your derailleur online to find out. Adjust the screw so that the chain cannot be pushed too far.

STEP 4: MOVE CHAIN BACK ONTO THE SMALLEST COG

Gently allow the derailleur to move the chain back onto the smallest cog. Check the alignment and adjust the other limit screw as needed.

STEP 5: REMOVE ANY INNER CABLE SLACK

Make sure the cable is under the retaining bolt and tighten it to hold the cable in place. Cycle through the gears a couple of times before shifting down to the biggest cog. Release the retaining screw, pull the cable tight and do up the screw again. This will remove any inner cable slack.

STEP 6: SHIFT THROUGH THE GEARS

Shift through the gears one by one. The shifting should be smooth going onto each cog. If shifting onto bigger cogs is slow, unscrew the barrel adjuster half a turn and try again. If shifting onto smaller cogs is slow, tighten the barrel adjuster half a turn.

STEP 7: ADJUST THE FRONT DERAILLEUR

If you have a 1X transmission (one chainring at the front and 10, 11 or 12 cogs at the back), then you are now done. If you have more than one chainring, you will now need to adjust the front derailleur.

HOW TO ADJUST THE FRONT DERAILLEUR – 7 STEPS

STEP 1: MOVE CHAIN ONTO BIGGEST COG

Use the shifters and turn the pedals to put the chain onto the smallest chainring and biggest cog on the cassette. Screw the barrel adjuster all the way in and then unscrew it a couple of turns. Release the cable retaining bolt.

STEP 2: CHECK THE POSITION OF THE DERAILLEUR

Look at the derailleur from above. Are the plates that push the chain parallel to the chainrings? If not, loosen the clamp that hold the derailleur on the frame and align it.

STEP 3: ADJUST THE LIMIT SCREW

Adjust the limit screw so that chain is in the middle between the derailleur plates.

STEP 4: MOVE CHAIN ONTO THE BIGGEST CHAINRING

Use your hand to move the derailleur and push the chain onto the biggest chainring by turning the pedals. If the derailleur can push the chain too far, adjust the limit screw.

STEP 5: MOVE CHAIN ONTO THE SMALLEST CHAINRING

Gently release the derailleur and move the chain back onto the smallest chainring. Tighten the cable retaining bolt. Shift between the smallest chainring and the next largest chainring. If the chain falls between the smallest chainring and frame when shifting down, adjust the limit screw.

STEP 6: ADJUST THE SLACK IN THE CABLE

Release the retaining bolt and pull out and slack in the cable before tightening it again. Shift into one of the middle cogs on the cassette. Shift between the chainrings. If the chain gets pushed too far off the big chainring, adjust the limit screw. Take up any cable slack again.

STEP 7: FINE TUNE THE GEARS

If shifting onto a bigger chainring is slow, unscrew the barrel adjuster half a turn. If shifting onto smaller chainrings is slow, tighten the barrel adjuster.

EXTRA TIPS FOR ADJUSTING GEARS

If you find that you just cannot get the indexing right or the chain will not shift smoothly onto certain cogs, there could be a couple of things getting in the way.

1. WORN OR DIRTY OUTER CABLE

If the inside of the outer cable is full of dirt, worn away or rusted, this will create friction, preventing the inner cable from moving freely. If shifting into smaller cogs is slow, this could be the cause.

2. BENT DERAILLEUR HANGER

This is a metal plate that holds the derailleur on the frame. It is designed to bend or even snap under pressure, so that the derailleur or frame does not have to. Although annoying when it does happen, it is cheaper to replace.

A bent hanger will not hold the derailleur in the right position to shift gears correctly. You may be able to bend it back yourself but it is best to get a shop to attempt this or just buy a new hanger.

VIDEO: HOW TO REPLACE A BENT DERAILLEUR HANGER

3. WORN CHAIN, CASSETTE OR CHAINRINGS (OR ALL THREE!)

If your chain is skipping and jumping, it is probably worn out. Ideally, you replace your chain before this happens as a worn chain will grind away at the teeth on the cassette and chainrings, preventing a new chain engaging properly.

If this happens, you will need to replace all three. You may also want to invest in a chain measuring tool so you will know in the future when to replace the chain and not have the extra costs of replacing the other parts too. Check out this article about bike chain wear on Bike Radar to learn more.

The post How To Adjust Mountain Bike Gears appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

A floor pump is the best tool to use to accomplish this. Should you get a flat tire while riding, you will want to have a mini pump with you to repair it instead of pushing or carrying your bike all the way home.

Figuring out what to look for in a mountain bike pump can be tricky, so we made this guide for you to let you know what you need to consider. We have also reviewed some of the best pumps available.

For more of our top mountain biking gear recommendations, check out the Best Mountain Bike Racks. 

Reviews - The Best Pumps for Mountain Bikes

Topeak Joeblow Booster

Specs

• Type: Floor Pump
• Weight: 6lb 4oz
• Pressure Gauge: Yes

PROS: Air chamber to inflate tubeless tires, normal pump mode for fine tuning, good construction, large dial is easy to read

CONS: Heavy

View at Jenson USA

Topeak Pocket Master Blaster

Specs

• Type: Mini Pump
• Weight: 4.05oz
• Pressure Gauge: No

PROS: Handle is easy to grip

CONS: Slow inflation

View at REI

View at Jenson USA

Blackburn Chamber HV

Specs

• Type: Floor pump
• Weight: 5lb 2oz
• Pressure Gauge: Yes

PROS: Dedicated mountain bike pump designed to work with high volume tires and low pressures, a gauge with a low pressure tolerance gives more accurate readings, very fast inflation

CONS: Uncomfortable handle

View at Amazon

Topeak Joeblow Mountain

Specs

• Type: Floor Pump
• Weight: 3lbs 12 oz
• Pressure Gauge: Yes

PROS: High volume pump designed for mountain bike tires, accurate gauge

CONS: Some plastic parts wear out quickly

View at Jenson USA

Lezyne CNC Digital Drive

Specs

• Type: Floor Pump
• Weight: 3lbs
• Pressure Gauge: Yes

PROS: Accurate digital gauge, solid construction

CONS:High pressure design is better for road bikes, battery will need replacing

View at Backcountry

Crankbrothers Sterling

Specs

• Type: Mini Pump
• Weight: 4.0oz
• Pressure Gauge: No

PROS: High and low pressure mode, fast inflation

CONS: No frame attachment included, no flexible valve hose

View at Jenson USA

Lezyne HP Drive

Specs

• Type: Mini Pump
• Weight: 4.8oz
• Pressure Gauge: No

PROS: Well designed and constructed, flexible valve hose

CONS: None

View at Backcountry

View at Jenson USA

Topeak Race Rocket MT

Specs

• Type: Mini Pump
• Weight: 4.44oz
• Pressure Gauge: No

PROS: Small, lightweight, flexible valve hose

CONS: None

View at Jenson USA

Park Tool PMP-4

Specs

• Type: Mini Pump
• Weight: 4.65oz
• Pressure Gauge: No

PROS: Comfortable to use, very affordable

CONS: Switching the between Schraeder and Presta valve attachments is fiddly and time consuming

View at Backcountry

View at Jenson USA

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE PUMPS

TYPE

Floor pumps have a large volume and are great for quickly inflating your tires. They are too big to transport easily on your bike so are best used at home or in the car park before your ride.

Mini pumps are smaller and designed to be transported in your jersey, bag or on your frame. You can use a floor pump to set your tire pressure before a ride and a mini pump on the trail if you get a flat tire.

If you only want to own one, then get a mini pump. However, you will never be able to set up tubeless tires with a mini pump and they take more time to use than a floor pump.

So, it would be ideal for you to own one of each to make your life easier. Have a look at this beginners guide to learn more about different types of pumps and how to correctly inflate a tire.

VOLUME

This refers to the amount of air that is transferred into the tire from each stroke. Obviously, this is much higher on floor pumps. But, do not assume that a larger pump will move more air.

Cheap pumps tend to push less air than well-made, more expensive models. This is particularly relevant when looking at mini pumps because a more efficient pump means less time fixing a flat tire on the trail. It is certainly no fun to be pumping like a maniac for ages in the rain, so a faster pump is worth the extra cost.

ERGONOMICS

A well-designed pump will be more enjoyable to use. If the valve attachment is fiddly, you will become frustrated each time you use it.

If the handle is not designed well, then it will be uncomfortable to use and can leave your hands in pain after inflating a tire. At the end of the day, you want to enjoy and not dread using your tools.

WEIGHT

Although this is not too important for a floor pump, you do not want to carry around a heavy mini pump on each ride. Granted, the weight of a mini pump is not much but cumulatively, all of your gear and tools can add up. So, why not get a light pump while you can?

PRESSURE GAUGE

A good floor pump will have a pressure gauge so you can see what pressure you have inflated the tires. Mini pumps rarely have a pressure gauge but you can take a small gauge with you on your rides if getting the exact pressure is important to you or if you are expecting differing trail conditions.

Enduro racers often carry a gauge with them to make sure their tire pressure is perfect before each run and to adjust according to the changing weather conditions.

VALVE CONNECTION

A good pump will be able to connect to the two common types of valve: Presta and Schraeder. The connection should be easy and not cause any leverage that could damage the valve or tube.

Accidentally ripping out a valve could leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere, so it definitely pays to get a good quality pump. Some pump heads push and lock directly onto the valve, which has a higher risk of damage.

The best pumps have a flexible hose that screws on. This isolates any movement from the pump, preventing the valve from getting pushed around.

The post Best Mountain Bike Pumps of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Getting airborne is a wonderful feeling and learning to jump will allow you to ride more difficult trails. However, using the correct technique is critical to your safety. Remember, there is more to jumping than just hurtling at a takeoff and hoping for the best.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, we want you to be safe as possible while having fun on your bike. So, we offer you this tutorial to guide you through the steps for you to start safely jumping your mountain bike.

 
Once you have learned the proper technique, jumping a mountain bike is actually easier than it looks. To jump properly and safely, you need to combine the techniques that you have already learned from pumping and bunny hopping.

If you are not confident doing these two techniques, then please learn to do them first. Once you’ve mastered these, then come back to this article to learn how to jump a mountain bike.

If you are confident with pumping and bunny hops, then it is time to find some jumps. The best kind of jump to learn on is a small tabletop with a gradual take off and landing.

A steeper take off and landing will throw you higher into the air and require more precision when landing. Both of which are dangerous when first learning to jump, so start with something small.

A tabletop jump is one pile of dirt with a flat area between the takeoff and landing. This is best for learning on because if you do not jump far enough, then you can still safely land on top of the jump. As you progress, you can move on to doubles, which are two separate piles of dirt with a gap in between.

Don’t forget to put your on helmet. Wearing your gloves and knee pads are also advisable. Also, make sure that everything on your bike is in working order before you start!

HOW TO JUMP

Jumping combines the pumping and bunny hop techniques, but you do not perform all the movements at once. They have to be done in a certain order to get you safely into the air.

Timing is critical and will be different for each jump. Follow the steps below and fine tune the timing until you are easily clearing the jump.

1. GET A FEEL FOR THE JUMP

To get used to the feel of the tabletop, roll over it a few times. You should already be familiar with how the bike will move from riding pump tracks. Gradually increase your speed.

2. PUMP INTO THE TAKEOFF

As you hit the takeoff, pump your bike into it. This will compress your suspension. The rebound from your fork (and shock) help get you into the air.

3. PULL ON THE HANDLEBARS

As the front wheel reaches the top of the takeoff, pull up on the handlebars like you would at the start of a bunny hop. The idea is to keep the wheel moving in the same direction in which the takeoff is leading it.

4. JUMP

As the back wheel reaches the top of the takeoff, jump with your legs. Again, this is similar as when performing a bunny hop. If you have rear suspension, concentrate on timing your jump with the rebound from the shock. Combining the energy from the two gets you into the air.

If you do not pump and jump, you will not have balance as you get airborne. Passively rolling into a jump and just pulling on the bars is never a good idea as you will be off balance, causing you and your bike to shoot off sideways or tip over in the air. Pumping helps keep everything balanced.

5. PUSH, TWIST, AND SCOOP

Even with bad timing, you will takeoff. Once you are in the air, push and twist forward with your wrists and scoop with your feet (again, just like a bunny hop).

This is necessary to the maximum height out of the jump. Your bike will go through a natural arc anyway. The push, twist and scoop will help it to do so, ensuring that your bike is angled down for the landing.

6. SPOT THE LANDING

Look at where you will land and aim for it. Your goal is to get the angle of your bike to match the angle of the landing and for your front wheel to land first.

PRACTICE TIMING

Repeat the steps and keep practicing until you can easily clear the jump. Get a feel for the role each of the steps has by tweaking the timing. Try experimenting by pumping more and less or jumping sooner.

BikeRadar has a great article that talks about the timing of weight transfer. Watching the video will also help you visualize the techniques.

SLOW DOWN

Going faster is an easy way to clear a jump. However, you will find that it is possible to clear the jump at a much slower speed by getting the timing and force from the pump just right.

Slow down your speed and really stress the movements to get maximum height from the techniques as opposed to focusing on speed.

TURN YOUR HANDLEBARS

When you are in the air, turn your handlebars to one side slightly before straightening up for the landing. Not only does this look stylish, but it also helps you stay in control.

By moving the bars, you keep your body loose, balanced and responsive to other movements. This becomes important later on with the bigger jumps as you can easily respond if something unexpected happens.

Staying motionless on the bike in the air is a recipe for disaster and is known as a “dead sailor” situation.

PROGRESS

Once you are confident jumping your small tabletop, move onto bigger ones. When you are clearing bigger tabletops, move on to doubles. Don’t be scared!

If you get intimidated by the gap in the middle, it helps to stop and just take a look at it. Think about the size of tabletops that you have jumped in comparison and you will realize that you can clear it easily.

The bigger the jumps get, the more accurate you have to be with the timing. Be more aware of the speed coming into them as well.

Bigger jumps tend to have steeper landings. You do not want to overshoot by going too fast. For this reason, it can be helpful to follow someone else with experience on the same technique when you’re going for a new jump so you can match their speed.

Check out this video to help you get the confidence to move on to bigger jumps:

JUMPING ON THE TRAIL

One day, you will find that trail features start to look like jumps or at least, takeoffs. This is a good thing and you can have loads of fun jumping off lips and bumps on the trail. Think about using trail features to jump over technical sections or pre-jump a drop.

Progress to doubles, hip jumps. Get to the pump track and see what you can jump there. Trail features will start to look like jumps, too. You will find that you can use parts of the trail to jump over or down technical sections.

RESPECTING YOUR LOCAL DIRT JUMPS

If you are lucky, there will be a dirt jump spot in your local area. Depending on the local laws, they may be easy to find or hidden in the woods. A good place to start is by asking at your local bike shop. Hopefully, there will be beginner jumps there for you.

Remember that dirt jumps do not build or look after themselves. If you cause any damage by casing a jump (dislodging the dirt on the top of the landing by coming up short), then you should fix it.

Many jump spots will have an unwritten “No dig, no ride” rule. If you can, bring a spade and a rake along and tidy up the jumps a bit. No one will force you to do so but if the locals see you helping out, then they will be more open to helping you refine your technique.

The post How To Jump A Mountain Bike appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

This article is designed to let you know what you need to consider when buying new mtb wheels. We have also chosen the best mtb wheels available to help you make a decision and get back on your bike, riding faster than before.

For more of our top mountain biking gear recommendations, check out the Best Mountain Bike Tires. 

Reviews - The Best Wheels for MTB

Race Face Turbine 30

Specs

• Tubeless: Yes
• Wheel Size: 27.5”

Features

• RIM MATERIAL: Alloy
• INTERNAL RIM WIDTH: 30mm

BEST FOR: A GREAT VALUE WHEEL FOR ALL-ROUND MOUNTAIN BIKING

PROS: Wide, strong, stiff, fast engagement

CONS: None

 

View at Jenson USA

Mavic Crossmax Pro

Specs

• Tubeless: Yes
• Wheel Size: 27.5”

Features

• RIM MATERIAL: Alloy
• INTERNAL RIM WIDTH: 23mm

BEST FOR: HARD TRAIL RIDING

PROS: Strong, light

CONS: None

View at Amazon

Mavic XA Pro

Specs

• Tubeless: Yes
• Wheel Size: 27.5”, 29"

Features

• RIM MATERIAL: Carbon
• INTERNAL RIM WIDTH: 26mm

BEST FOR: A LIGHT AND STRONG CARBON WHEEL

PROS: Light, strong

CONS: Price, narrower rim than comparable wheels

View at Amazon

Shimano XTR

Specs

• Tubeless: Yes
• Wheel Size: 29”

Features

• RIM MATERIAL: Carbon/alloy
• INTERNAL RIM WIDTH: 24mm

BEST FOR: A GOOD LOOKING WHEELSET WITH THE ADVANTAGES OF BOTH CARBON AND ALLOY

PROS: Durable aluminum rim wrapped in carbon for rigidity

CONS: Get out of true faster than expected

View at Amazon

Shimano Deore/Sun Disc

Specs

• Tubeless: No
• Wheel Size: 29.0”

Features

• RIM MATERIAL: Alloy
• INTERNAL RIM WIDTH: 27.7mm

BEST FOR: RIDERS WHO ARE WILLING TO SACRIFICE WEIGHT FOR RELIABILITY

PROS: Strong, reliable

CONS: Heavy

View at REI

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST MTB WHEELS

RIDING STYLE

Different styles of mountain biking require wheels with different attributes. XC racers will want a lightweight wheelset, sacrificing strength in favor of speed.

Meanwhile, trail riders will need something stronger to cope with the stresses of being hammered through technical terrain. Enduro riders and downhill racers will need something even stronger and more durable.

WHEEL SIZE

Your frame and fork are almost most likely compatible with only one wheel size. The three wheel sizes for mountain bikes are 26″, 27.5″ (also known as 650b) and 29.” Some trials, dirt jump and children’s bikes will have 24″ wheels.

If you do not know what size wheel your bike takes, have a look at your tires. The wheel diameter followed by the tire width are printed on the side (e.g., 26×2.2).

RIM CONSIDERATIONS

WIDTH

Wider rims allow wider tires to be used. Wider rim and tire combinations have become popular in recent years for a couple of reasons.

First, the increased grip and bigger volume of wider tires allow riders to ride with more control through technical terrain and push harder in corners. On top of this, it has been proven that wider tires with lower pressure roll better over rough terrain, although they may be a bit slower to accelerate.

The internal rim width determines the maximum tire size you can use. For instance, 19mm allows up to 2.2-inch tires, 21mm up to 2.4 inches, and 23 mm for anything wider than 2.3 inches. There are also wider rims available for plus size tires and fat bikes.

Check what width tires your frame and fork is designed to take and purchase wheels designed for this size. You are unlikely to fit a wide downhill tire into a skinny XC frame and a plus size tire is not going in anything but a plus size bike. However, you can actually put slimmer tires in a plus size bike.

MATERIAL

You have a choice of either alloy or carbon when it comes to rims. Alloy rims can be just as light as carbon at a fraction of the cost, whereas carbon rims are stiffer. A stiffer rim will give you more power transfer and precision when cornering at the price of a harsher ride feel.

TUBELESS

Tubeless wheels have many advantages over traditional tire and tubes. Fewer punctures, lower rolling resistance, lighter weight and better grip are just a few of these benefits.

Keep in mind that tubeless rims will only work with tubeless tires. Tubeless-ready rims can be sealed with special rim tape and mounted with tubeless tires or used with an inner tube. Non-tubeless rims can only be used with inner tubes.

HUB CONSIDERATIONS

MANUFACTURE

Hubs are manufactured in two ways. Either they are forged and then machined or machined only. Forged hubs are generally stronger so a better decision.

BEARINGS

Whether you choose loose or cartridge bearings do not make too much difference to the performance of the wheel. The sealing of the bearings is what counts, as this keeps out dirt, water and grime that wear out the bearings.

POINTS OF ENGAGEMENT

This refers to the number of pawls in the rear hub that engages with the freewheel when you pedal. The pawls are responsible for the clicking or buzzing noise that a rear wheel makes when you are not pedaling.

More pawls mean more points of engagement and faster pick up when you start pedaling. It would be wise to look for hubs with at least three or more.

CASSETTE TYPE

If you want a super wide ratio 11- or 12-speed drivetrain, you need to make sure that the hub is compatible. Eleven- and 12-speed SRAM cassettes need to be mounted on a SRAM XD driver, whereas some Shimano cassettes can be mounted on regular hubs. Check their compatibility before you buy.

AXLES

There are currently many axle widths in use. Rear hubs have gotten wider, going from 135mm to 142mm and even reaching the 148mm “Boost” size.

Downhill hubs are either 150mm or 157mm wide. There is also the standard quick release, or the 12mm or 15mm through axle size to think about.

Thankfully, many new wheels include interchangeable adapters. But, you will need to check what size your frame takes and what sizes your intended wheels are compatible with.

Front hubs come in 100mm or the 110mm “Boost” size, with the same variety of quick release and through axles. Make sure your new wheel is compatible with your fork.

BRAKE TYPE

If you use rim brakes, then you need to get wheels with compatible rims. Nearly all modern mountain bikes use disk brakes. The rotors will also mount onto the hubs. Check whether you need hubs with 6 bolt ISO standard or centerlock to match your current brakes.

The post Best MTB Wheels of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

A good pair of grips can be the difference between painful hands and many hours of happy riding. But, there are many different types of grip on the market. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we want you to enjoy mountain biking as much as possible. So, we offer this guide to help you decide which grips are best for you. We also show you our selection of the best MTB grips available.

For more of our top mountain biking gear recommendations, check out the Best Mountain Bike Handlebars.

Reviews - The Best Grips for MTB

Ergon GA2

Specs

• Length: 136 mm
• Style: Single Clamp

BEST FOR: OVERALL

PROS: Ergonomic fit prevents hand fatigue on natural trails, shape promotes good riding technique, flatter than the GE1

CONS: Without gloves, the grips feel too smooth so it can be slippery when wet

View at REI

View at Backcountry

ODI Ruffian

Specs

• Length: 130 mm
• Style: Double Clamp

BEST FOR: OVERALL

PROS: The original lock-on grips, light, slim

CONS: Locking bolt is thin

View at Backcountry

ESI Chunky

Specs

• Length: 130 mm
• Style: Slide On

BEST FOR: BUDGET

PROS: Light, grippy especially when wet

CONS: Easily damaged

View at Backcountry

Ergon GE1

Specs

• Length: 135 mm
• Style: Single Clamp

BEST FOR: TRAIL

PROS: Ergonomic fit prevents numbness on natural trails, ridge for index finger grip, promote good riding technique, thicker than GA2, slim version available

CONS: Can be tricky to get set up in right position, lots of vibration on fast trails or at trail centers

View at Backcountry

Lizard Skins Moab

Specs

• Length: 130 mm
• Style: Double Clamp

BEST FOR: TRAIL

PROS: Grippy with or without gloves even when wet, sales benefit the Moab Trails Alliance

CONS: Not much vibration damping

View at Backcountry

Race Face Half Nelson

Specs

• Length: 133 mm
• Style: Single Clamp

BEST FOR: TRAIL

PROS: Firm but tacky, ridges where fingers grip on underside, good grip when wet

CONS: Plugs do not keep dirt out, can move under lots of force

View at Backcountry

Chromag Palmskin

Specs

• Length: 142 mm
• Style: Double Clamp

BEST FOR: TRAIL

PROS: Perfect for gloveless riding

CONS: Sweat makes grip slippery on warm days

View at Jenson USA

Lizard Skins Peaty

Specs

• Length: 130 mm
• Style: Double Clamp

BEST FOR: DOWNHILL

PROS: Good grip with or without gloves, durable

CONS: None that we could find

View at Backcountry

DMR Brendog Death Grip

Specs

• Length: 130 mm
• Style: Single Clamp

BEST FOR: DOWNHILL

PROS: Very tacky, three different profiles create perfect grip and cushioning, thin and thick versions available as well as hard and soft compounds

CONS: None that we could find

View at Jenson USA

Schwinn Tri-Layer Gel Comfort

Specs

• Length: 150 mm
• Style: Slide On

BEST FOR: BUDGET

PROS: Multiple layers ensure grip and comfort, ergonomic shape

CONS: Not particularly durable

View at Amazon

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST MTB GRIPS

FIXING METHOD

There are two types of grip. Slide on grips stay in place with friction alone or are wired on. Lock-on grips have one (single clamp) or two (double clamp) locking rings and plastic sleeves under the grip to hold them securely in place.

Slide on grips have a tendency to rotate if rain or dirt gets under them. Lock-on grips are very unlikely to rotate unexpectedly but weigh more due to the extra material. The bolts can get blocked up with mud and dirt, making it hard to insert a hex key to remove them, although this is only a problem if you need to remove your grips regularly and is no less hassle than the standard removal of slide on grips.

Bike Radar has a very informative video if you need instructions on how to install grips. Due to the extra security it can offer, lock-on grips are by far the most popular choice among riders.

MATERIAL OR COMPOUND

Silicon grips are light. However, these are not particularly durable and are prone to get damaged in crashes. Just like tires, softer compounds will be tackier. Although these may give you more control, they will wear out faster.

Harder compounds have less vibration damping and may cause hand fatigue. Lock-on grips have a hard plastic sleeve under the grip.

Some riders prefer the feeling of slide on grips with no material between the grip and handlebars. Not having a plastic sleeve also allows slide on grips to have lots of grip material for vibration damping while maintaining a slim overall diameter.

Do not assume that a very thick grip, which can absorb all vibrations, is the best choice. You still want to be able to “feel” what is happening under your tires and get feedback from the trail through your hands.

PROFILE

There is a wide selection available in the market. Some work with gloves, while others are designed to be used with bare hands. You can find thin waffle, ridges or blocks of various thicknesses. Each gives a different feel and absorbs more or less vibration based on the compound.

The classic waffle profile is generally the best performer in wet weather. Some use different profiles on various parts of the grip for optimum performance. Everyone has different sized hands and preferences, so it is worth trying out various types before purchasing.

SHAPE & LENGTH

Some grips are straight. Others have an ergonomic shape to fit your hand. It is also possible to find long and short grips.

If you have small hands, do not get long grips as these may push your brake and gear levers too far away from your hands. Using grips that are too short will force the end of your hand over the end of the bars or onto the outside lock-ring. Again, it pays to try different types to find what suits you best.

BAR PLUGS

The best grips will come with bar plugs. Their design will cover the ends of your handlebars. This prevents serious injury in a crash and protects carbon bars. If none are supplied or they get damaged in a crash, you can use a wine cork until you can get some replacements.

The post Best MTB Grips of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Pumping as a technique is the act of driving your bike into the ground to gain traction and speed. Learning how to pump will allow you to stop passively rolling over trail features and instead use them to gain speed. By forcing the tires into the ground, you will have greater traction in corners. Obstacles that previously slowed you down will become opportunities to speed up. Soon you will be pumping off all sorts of trail features and blasting through the woods.

WHAT IS PUMPING?

Pumping is a technique to increase or maintain speed as well as increase traction by driving the bike into the ground. It is a bit like free speed as it allows you to speed up without pedaling.

Imagine throwing a basketball at a plank of wood angled at 45 degrees. The ball will bounce up and forwards. The harder you throw the ball, the faster it will bounce off the wood.

Now imagine the plank of wood is a small rise on a trail and the basketball is your bike. By pushing your bike into the face of the rise, the rebound energy from your tires and suspension will push you up and forwards, helping you to maintain speed rather than the rise slowing you down. Pushing your bike into the down-slope on the other side of the rise will speed you up. This is called pumping.

If you come across a dip on the trail, you can pump into it to speed up. Pumping through flat corners will push the tires into the ground, increasing their footprint and the depth that the profile digs in, both of which will give you more grip. On a bermed or raised corner you can lean over and do not need as much traction, but a berm is just a dip on it’s side, and can be pumped through in the same way.

There is more to the technique than just pushing down. See the instructions below to get you pump on. Get confident on each step before progressing to the next one. Soon you will be flying down the trail, leaving your mates wondering how you got so fast.

HOW TO PUMP

1. THE BASICS

To get started, find an empty parking lot or patch of grass. Don’t forget to bring your helmet along. Roll along at a steady pace with your pedals level with each other (one forward and one back). Squat down by bending your arms and legs, before using your hips and arms to drive your weight into the pedals and handlebars. As you do this, keep your heels down so your feet point slightly upwards, and rotate your wrists down. This ensures that the energy you are pushing into the bike propels it forwards and not just down.

You should hear your tires buzz as you accelerate.

2. PUMP OVER RISES AND DOWN INTO DIPS

Once you have got used to how this feels, find a local pumptrack (see below) or section of trail with some small rises and dips. Roll into the section at the same speed as you practiced earlier and think about the basketball. Pump into the face and down-slope of each rise and pump down into dips. Your goal here is to maintain a constant speed without slowing down.

Timing is crucial. Experiment with starting the pump earlier or later to see what effect this has on your speed.

As you perfect the technique and timing, you will find that you can actually speed up through the section without pedalling. Free speed!

Have a look at this video from 1:02 for some more tips:

3. PUMP THROUGH CORNERS

Find a wide turn, or ideally a long winding section of singletrack without roots or rocks. Use the same pump technique as you roll through each turn to drive the tires into the ground. The downward force will give you more traction, allowing you to corner faster and the harder you push with your legs, the more you will accelerate out of the turn.

4. PUMP THROUGH BERMS

Find a wide and flat berm and turn your head to the side (to the left for a left-hand corner and vice versa). Notice how the berm now just looks like a dip in the trail? You have already mastered how to pump down into a dip, so do exactly the same as you roll through the berm.

5. PUMPING THROUGH AND OVER TECHNICAL FEATURES

Pumping can also be used to help you get through rock gardens or piles of tree roots. Once you are comfortable with the technique, look out for features on the trail that you can pump off. If there is a suitable rock at the start of a rock garden, pump off it and unweight your bike to make the wheels track over the rocks without throwing you around. You can do the same with a series of roots.

6. PUMP TO JUMP

When you are feeling confident pumping over bumps on the trail, try pulling up on the handlebars as the front wheel reaches the top of the bump. As the back wheel reaches the top, push hard with your legs. With the correct timing you will send the bike into the air.

Pumping combined with the bunny hop technique is the basis for learning how to jump a mountain bike.

VISIT A PUMPTRACK

A pumptrack is series of rollers (or bumps/rises) and bermed corners that goes round in a loop. As the name suggests, a pumptrack is the perfect place to learn how to pump. You can often find a pumptrack at your local dirt jumps or trail center. Try searching online to find one or ask your local bike shop.

Spending time at a pumptrack is highly beneficial for a number or reasons. Not only is it a great place to practice pumping, you can also get a full body work out from pumping through as many circuits as possible. Pumptracks can be very sociable places where mountain bikers and BMX riders hang out. You can make new riding friends and watch them on the track as well as ask their advice on how to refine your technique. Finally, the features on most pumptracks can be rolled over by riders of all levels, so don’t be afraid of giving it a go. You can even take your kids with you!

Have a look singletracks.com to learn more about pump tracks and how to ride them.

If there is no pump track in your area then why not build one?

The post How To Pump A Mountain Bike For More Speed appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.