For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Belay Carabiners.

Reviews - The Best Climbing Carabiners

Wild Country Helium

Specs

• Gate: Wiregate
• Weight: 82 grams
• Locking: No

Features

• Hook-Free Clean Nose Makes Unclipping a Breeze
• Wide Gate Opening for Easy Clipping
• I-Beam Construction Reduces Weight

BEST FOR: ALL-AROUND

The Wild Country Helium is a non-locking wiregate carabiner that handles as well on a trad rack as it does as part of a quickdraw when you’re clipping bolts. The I-beam construction of the Helium keeps it fairly lightweight even though it is a full-size carabiner. This gives it a wide gate opening which makes it easy to clip the rope. A unique feature on the Wild Country Helium is a clean hook-free nose which makes it exceptionally easy to unclip.

The Helium is also rated extremely strong for a lightweight carabiner which will put you at ease when you’re taking whips. However, the great features of the Helium put it a bit on the pricey side for a non-locking carabiner.

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Black Diamond RockLock

Specs

• Gate: Screw Gate
• Weight: 89 grams
• Locking: Yes

Features

• Rounded Edges Allow the Rope to Feed Smoothly
• Stays in Place on Belay Loop with Square Hinge End
• Curved Spine Creates Wide Gate Opening

BEST FOR: BELAYING & RAPPELLING

A large, locking carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate is well-designed for belaying and rappelling. A slight curve in the spine gives it a wide gate opening so you can quickly set up your rope and belay device. The rounded edges of the RockLock mean the rope feeds super smoothly, which you’ll definitely appreciate when you’re rappelling or lead belaying, especially with a tube-style belay device such as an ATC.

The RockLock is fairly heavy, due to its large size and construction, so it is not your best choice when weight is a factor, such as for multi-pitch trad climbing. But it is an excellent option for single-pitch cragging or the gym.

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C.A.M.P. USA Nano 22

Specs

• Gate: Wiregate
• Weight: 22 grams
• Locking: No

Features

• Extremely Lightweight
• Color-Coded to Correspond with Cams
• Deep Basket to Allow Rope to Move Smoothly

BEST FOR: LIGHTWEIGHT

The C.A.M.P. USA Nano 22 will let you rack up without weighing you down on long trad multi-pitch and alpine climbs. Though it could almost fool you with its extremely small and thin design, the Nano 22 is a full-strength climbing carabiner, and it is great for racking cams and other trad gear. In fact, you can get a whole color-coded set to correspond to the colors of your cams, which will make it easy to find the right gear on your harness while you’re climbing.

In order to make it so light, the Nano 22 is quite small, and it can sometimes be a struggle to handle. But if weight is important for your objectives, you can’t find a better carabiner.

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Petzl Spirit

Specs

• Gate: Bent Gate
• Weight: 39 grams
• Locking: No

Features

• Thumb Grooves on the Gate Make Clipping Easy
• Keylock Nose to Keep from Snagging
• Thicker Metal on the Bottom to Reduce Wear from Rope

BEST FOR: SPORT CLIMBING

The Petzl Spirit has great gate action that makes it super satisfying to clip on your sport project. The bent gate version is ideal for the rope side end of a quickdraw, and it is designed to keep the webbing of a dogbone in place. Plus, it is thicker on the bottom side, which makes it extra durable to handle wear from the rope running through.

Although the keylock nose is now common on carabiners, the Petzl Spirit was the first carabiner to feature this non-snag nose, and the design stands the test of time. Although the Spirit might not be the cheapest or lightest carabiner, it is impeccably constructed, and you’ll be happy to clip it at the crag.

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Trango Phase

Specs

• Gate: Wiregate
• Weight: 30 grams
• Locking: No

Features

• Large rope-bearing surface
• Lightweight

BEST FOR: CLIMBERS ON A BUDGET

The Phase is terrific all-around carabiner for trad, sport, or to serve as a handy back-up for those times you’re forced to bail from routes.

This lightweight carabiner is offered in 8 different colors, making it a desirable low cost option — even for racking cams. The Phase comes in both a straight or bent gate design. Both are easy to clip — despite a slightly smaller gate clearance. The combined slim design and lightweight nature make the Phase a quality option for using in quickdraws or alpine slings, allowing for plenty of extra space on your harness for larger carabiners — such as those needed for belaying or rappelling. Despite the smaller gate design, the Phase does feature a large rope bearing area, which allows for plenty of space to clove in to anchors on multi-pitch routes.

What I like most about this carabiner — other than its outstanding value for the price — is that it offers above-average fall protection, providing for peace of mind when you’re on the sharp end.

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Black Diamond Neutrino

Specs

• Gate: Wiregate
• Weight: 36 grams
• Locking: No

Features

• Color-Coded to Match Black Diamond Cams
• Large Gate Opening for Easy Clipping
• Freeze-Proof Gate for Use in Alpine Conditions

BEST FOR: RACKING CAMS

The Black Diamond Neutrino carabiners are a classic on a trad rack. They are color-coded to match Black Diamond cams, so it’s very easy to identify the piece of protection you’re looking for when you’re pumped out and need to place some gear quickly. You can buy them individually or in a “rack pack” which contains one of each color to go with all of your cams.

The Neutrino has a large gate opening, making it easy to clip, and a wide contact surface for the rope, so it slides smoothly through. The Neutrino is also extremely durable and the gate will not freeze in alpine conditions. However, the Neutrino is on the heavy side for a racking carabiner.

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Edelrid HMS Bulletproof

Specs

• Gate: Screw Gate
• Weight: 82 grams
• Locking: Yes

Features

• Stainless Steel Insert to Prevent Wear
• Keylock Nose for Easy Clipping & Unclipping
• Made of Lightweight Aluminum

BEST FOR: DURABILITY

The Edelrid HMS Bulleptroof Screw carabiner is designed for ultimate durability, thanks to a special stainless steel insert which prevents wear from both rope friction and bolt hangers. These carabiners are excellent for constructing anchors, especially when you’ll be lowering or setting up top-ropes where the rope friction would cause wear.

Since stainless steel is heavy, the rest of the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw carabiner is adapted to keep the weight down with a proprietary H-profile design and aluminum construction. A keylock nose design also makes this carabiner quick to clip and unclip. The price of the Bulletproof carabiner is made up for with its long lifespan.

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EDELRID Pure Slider

Specs

• Gate: Straight Gate
• Weight: 42 grams
• Locking: Yes

Features

• Easy to Unlock When Clipping
• Spring-Loaded Gate Closes Instantly
• Lightweight Aluminum Construction

BEST FOR: EXTRA SAFETY ON LEAD

The Edelrid Pure Slider is a unique auto-locking carabiner that is designed to serve a very specific purpose  – providing peace of mind on lead routes with falls that could lead to the rope unclipping from a standard non-locking carabiner. Using the Pure Slider on the rope side end of a quickdraw will add extra security in these situations. The locking mechanism is a slide gate, which makes it easy to open when you’re leading a climb, but prevents it from opening if the rope runs over it in a fall.

This locking mechanism is less secure than a screw gate, so the Pure Slider is not the best choice for other situations where you need a locker, such as building anchors or belaying. But having one or two on your harness will make you feel safe when you really need it.

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Petzl Attache 3D

Specs

• Gate: Screw Gate
• Weight: 56 grams
• Locking: Yes

Features

• Small Size and I-Beam Construction Makes It Extremely Lightweight for a Locker
• Security Stripe to Easily See When It is Unlocked
• Rope Feeds Smoothly on Wide Contact Surface

BEST FOR: VERSATILITY

The Petzl Attache 3D Screw-Lock is a very useful carabiner that you’ll be glad to have at least a couple of on your rack for belaying, anchor building, and pretty much any situation you need a locking carabiner. The Attache is small for a locker and extremely lightweight thanks to its aluminum I-Beam construction, making it an excellent choice for multi-pitch applications.

One of the most useful features of the Attache is a red security stripe which is visible when the carabiner is unlocked, but covered up when it is locked, which makes it simple to visually check and provide peace of mind. One annoyance about the Attache is that the screwgate can get stuck closed if you overtwist it when you lock it.

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DMM Phantom

Specs

• Gate: Screw Gate
• Weight: 42 grams
• Locking: Yes

Features

• Extremely Lightweight for a Locking Carabiner
• Smooth Screw Gate Action to Lock & Unlock
• Keylock Nose for Snag-Free Clipping

BEST FOR: ANCHOR BUILDING

The DMM Phantom is a small, lightweight locking carabiner that is ideal for building anchors or using to clip in with your personal anchor system. The screw gate action of the Phantom is super smooth, making it quick to lock and unlock whenever you need to, and the keylock nose makes clipping and unclipping snag-free.

Because the Phantom is so small, it does not have a large gate clearance, so it can’t handle clipping multiple ropes. It is also not designed for belaying or rappelling, but is an excellent choice for just about anything else you need a locker for.

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THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A CARABINER

Carabiners have so many applications in climbing, and it’s important to choose the right carabiner for each situation. You’ll want a different carabiner for belaying and rappelling (larger locker) than you will for racking your trad gear (small and lightweight non-locker). REI offers some in-depth info on different kinds of carabiners, and Climbing provides more knowledge about the history and safety standards of carabiners.

LOCKING VS NON-LOCKING

The two major categories of carabiners are locking and non-locking, and both have their intended purpose. You need a locking carabiner for belaying, rappelling, building anchors, and any other situation where it is imperative that the carabiner gate not open. Non-locking carabiners are primarily used for protection when leading, whether as part of a quickdraw on sport, or clipping gear on trad.

SIZE & WEIGHT

Depending on your style of climbing, size and weight may be more or less important. Larger carabiners usually are easier to handle and have larger gate openings for the rope, but they take up more room on your harness. Larger carabiners are best for belaying and rappelling.

If you’re trad climbing, particularly on multi-pitch, weight can make a difference because you’ll have a lot of carabiners on your rack. In that case, you’ll want to prioritize lightweight carabiners over others.

DURABILITY

Although carabiners tend to be cheaper than most of your other investments in climbing gear, you still want them to last as long as possible. Friction from ropes can wear lightweight aluminum carabiners quickly, so you should always check your carabiners to make sure they are still in good condition. The Edelrid Bulletproof carabiners have a stainless steel insert that makes them much more durable than most.

FEATURES EXPLAINED

AUTO-LOCKING

A type of locking mechanism that doesn’t require manual locking.

SCREW GATE

A mechanism on a locking carabiner that screws closed.

WIRE GATE

The gate is made of a loop of wire which reduces weight.

BENT GATE

The shape of the gate is bent to make clipping rope easy.

STRAIGHT GATE

The gate is constructed from a straight piece of metal which is durable and versatile.

KEYLOCK NOSE

The nose of the carabiner is at the top of the gate opening, and a keylock nose is smooth without a notch.

I-BEAM CONSTRUCTION

The outer edges of the carabiner are broader than the interior. This reduces weight while maintaining strength.

The post Best Carabiners of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Carabiners.

Reviews - The Best Carabiners for Belaying

Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate

Specs

• Gate: Screw Lock
• Gate Opening: Screw Lock
• Weight: 85g

Features

• Large Gate Opening
• Keylock Nose (to prevent catching)
• Rounded Edges (for smooth feeding of rope)

BEST FOR: THE BASICS

The Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate is a large carabiner designed to be used for belaying, as well as rappelling. As with most belay carabiners, it is HMS (or pear) shaped, which offers a wide gate opening to easily set up your belay device and rope.

The RockLock has rounded edges to provide smooth feeding of the rope, especially when you’re using an ATC or tube-style belay device. Because of its large size, the RockLock might not be the best for multi-pitch, when you want to keep things small and light, but it as an excellent choice for gym climbing or single-pitch cragging.

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Petzl Attache 3D Screw-Lock

Specs

• Gate: Screw Lock
• Weight: 56g

Features

• Compact & Lightweight
• Security Stripe (for easy visual check of locking)
• Keylock Nose (to avoid snagging)

BEST FOR: VERSATILITY

Significantly smaller than many belay carabiners, the Petzl Attache 3D Screw-Lock is an extremely versatile carabiner that you’ll spot on many climber’s racks. Due to the I-Beam construction, the Attache is very lightweight for a belay carabiner, so it’s great to use on multi-pitch climbs where weight matters.

The Attache also features a red security stripe that is only visible when it is unlocked, which provides extra safety and peace of mind because you can visually check if the carabiner is locked. One drawback of the Attache is that the screwgate is prone to getting stuck if you twist it too far to lock it.

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Black Diamond Magnetron RockLock

Specs

• Gate: Auto Lock
• Weight: 87g

Features

• Magnetic Closure
• Curved Spine (for maximum gate opening)
• Keylock Nose (to prevent snagging)

BEST FOR: INDOOR CLIMBING

The Black Diamond Magnetron RockLock is similar to the standard RockLock Carabiner with the addition of a specialized auto-locking magnetic closure. Two magnets in the gate and a steel insert in the nose provide a secure locking mechanism that can easily be opened and closed, even with one hand.

This magnetic closure is great from a safety and ease of use perspective, however, one big drawback is that the opening of the gate can be affected by cold (especially when wearing gloves) or by dirt that can affect the magnet. For that reason, the Magnetron is a great choice for indoor climbing, but not an ideal choice for winter climbing. However, it can be used outside in warmer weather if you’re careful to avoid placing it in dirt.

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EDELRID HMS Bulletproof

Specs

• Gate: Autolock
• Weight: 91g

Features

• Spring Bar (to hold in place)
• Steel Insert (to prevent wear)
• Triple-Action Lock (for security)

BEST FOR: EXTRA FEATURES

The Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Twist has an abundance of extra features that make it an excellent belay carabiner. The metal spring bar is made to hold your belay loop inside it to prevent the carabiner from rotating and potentially cross-loading, which can be dangerous (carabiners are not as strong when the load is oriented across the side).

The Bulletproof piece of this carabiner is the stainless steel insert, which stands up to the wear of rope running over it and provides extreme durability, which is key for belay carabiners which see a lot of use. This carabiner is auto-locking, with a triple action closure for extra safety and security.

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Trango Regulock HMS Screwlock

Specs

• Gate: Screw Lock
• Weight: 87g

Features

• Keylock Nose (to prevent snagging)
• Large Gate Opening
• Also Available in Auto-Locking Version

BEST FOR: VALUE

The Trango Regulock HMS Screwlock might not have a lot of bells and whistles, but it is a simple belay carabiner that gets the job done for a great value. The lack of extra belay-specific features also make it a useful carabiner for other purposes, including building anchors and rappelling.

The Regulock is a large carabiner with an equally large gate opening, making it simple to attach your belay device and feed the rope. The screw lock is quite smooth to open and close, and this carabiner also comes in an auto-locking version if you prefer that for extra security.

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THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A BELAY CARABINER

Your belay carabiner is a crucial piece of safety gear that you should always have on your harness, so you want it to be simple to use and made to last. REI provides a good primer on the different types of carabiners to choose from, and Climbing shares some interesting data on carabiners, including why cross-loading reduces strength.

SHAPE

The best shape for a belay carabiner is HMS or pear-shaped. These tend to have a wide gate opening and are easy to attach to belay devices and ropes. HMS carabiners can also be used to belay with a Munter Hitch, which does not require a belay device (if you happen to drop your belay device on a multi-pitch climb).

LOCKING CLOSURE

While there are a number of features that make a carabiner more suitable for belaying, the number one consideration is that a belay carabiner should always be a locking carabiner, which can either be a screw gate or auto-locking closure. Both are equally safe when locked, but some people prefer auto-locking carabiners as an extra measure of safety since you can’t forget to lock them.

DURABILITY

The belay carabiner will be one of your most-used pieces of equipment, so you want it to last. Many belay carabiners are beefy and large, which helps them stand up to constant wear. The Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner in particular features a stainless steel plate that is extra durable.

FEATURES EXPLAINED

SCREWGATE VS AUTO-LOCKING

With a screwgate, you manually screw the carabiner closed, while an auto-locking carabiner closes on it’s own.

HMS SHAPE

This is a pear shaped carabiner which makes for an extra wide gate opening to accommodate the rope and belay device.

KEYLOCK NOSE

The nose is the top of the opening for the gate, and a keylock nose is smooth and not notched.

SPRING BAR

A small metal bar at the bottom of the carabiner to keep the belay loop in place.

I-BEAM CONSTRUCTION

The outer edges are wider than the inner part of the carabiner, which retains strength while reducing weight.

The post Best Belay Carabiners of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

There are many climbing pulleys on the market that could satisfy your pulley-related needs. It could range from simple to auto-locking or from lightweight to heavy duty. All these may seem a bit overwhelming, but we’re ready to help.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, we try to make gear-buying as simple possible. In the following article, we will outline the uses of a pulley and review which are the best rock climbing pulleys for different adventures.

For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Belay Devices. 

Reviews - The Best Pulleys for Rock Climbing

Petzl Micro Traxion

Specs

• Autolock: Yes
• Breaking Strength: 15kN
• Weight: 85g
• Rope Diameter: 8-11mm

BEST FOR: EVERYTHING, FROM HAULING TO SELF-BELAYING TO SIMUL-CLIMBING

PROS: Light-weight and versatile. Works well with dirty or icy ropes. Auto-locking feature means it has a myriad of climbing uses

CONS: Not as strong as other pulleys, and pricey

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CAMP USA Sphinx

Specs

• Autolock: No
• Breaking Strength: 24kN
• Weight: 93g
• Rope Diameter: <13mm

BEST FOR: HAULING LOADS UP A WALL

PROS: Light and compact, with a higher breaking strength and broad range of rope compatibility

CONS: No auto-locking feature

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Petzl Pro Traxion

Specs

• Autolock: Yes
• Breaking Strength: 22kN
• Weight: 265g
• Rope Diameter: 8-13mm

BEST FOR: EVERYTHING, FROM HAULING TO SELF-BELAYING TO SIMUL-CLIMBING

PROS: The heavy duty auto-locking pulley. Durable and perfect for heavier hauling loads. Auto-locking feature means it has a myriad of climbing uses

CONS: Heavy and pricey

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CAMP USA Tethys Pro Mobile

Specs

• Autolock: No
• Breaking Strength: 25kN
• Weight: 91g
• Rope Diameter: <13mm

BEST FOR: HAULING LOADS UP A WALL

PROS: Light and compact, with a broad range of rope compatibility. Slightly lighter than the Sphinx, with a slightly higher breaking point

CONS: No auto-locking feature

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Petzl Oscillante

Specs

• Autolock: No
• Breaking Strength: 15kN
• Weight: 72g
• Rope Diameter: 7-11mm

BEST FOR: HAULING LOADS UP A WALL

PROS: Easy to use, cheap and ultra-light

CONS: No auto-locking feature and a narrower range of rope compatibility

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Petzl Ultra Legere

Specs

• Autolock: No
• Breaking Strength: 15kN
• Weight: 10g
• Rope Diameter: 7-13mm

BEST FOR: SIMPLE, LIGHT PULLEY TASKS

PROS: Super light and cheap

CONS: No auto-locking feature, small hole restricts the types of carabiners it can be used with

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Petzl Mobile

Specs

• Autolock: No
• Breaking Strength: 15kN
• Weight: 75g
• Rope Diameter: 7-13mm

BEST FOR: HAULING LOADS UP A WALL

PROS: Easy to use, cheap, small and light, and with a broad range of compatibility with ropes of different diameters.

CONS: No auto-locking feature limits its use

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST ROCK CLIMBING PULLEYS

USE

Pulleys have a variety of uses in rock climbing. The one you should choose will depend on what you want to climb. Most uses are for advanced forms of climbing, from self-belaying to hauling loads up a remote, alpine big wall.

If you’re a sport climber and wondering if you would need a pulley, know that you don’t need one. But if you’re a big wall adventurer or a simul-climber or a rope-soloist, then read on.

You may want a pulley for simple hauling or for more complicated hauling of super heavy bags up a 3,000-foot wall. You may want to use an auto-locking pulley to make simul-climbing safe. Do this by attaching one to a piece of protection that will catch the bottom climber’s fall without pulling the leader off of the wall.

You may want to use them to set up a “z-pulley” system to haul a heavier load or even pull a climber out of a crevasse. It can also be useful for a top-rope solo, a self-belay or a tyrolean traverse.

Deciding on the right pulley can make or break your climbing trip. Mistakes can result in serious injuries or even fatal consequences, so always refer to the pulley’s instruction manual to make sure you are using it properly. When hauling, always back up your systems.

STRENGTH

This is a biggie. Pulleys are rated to hold up specific weights. Some have a breaking strength of 15kN, which equates to roughly 3372 pounds. Others are rated up to 42kN or 9441 pounds. What you will want will depend on the intended use.

For small hauls, 15kN is more than enough force. For huge haul bags on big wall adventures, stronger pulleys are better.

Some models have a specific working load limit and breaking strength. The working load limit is the maximum load the pulley can take while it is in use. It is usually twice the maximum working load limit on one rope strand as the pulley usually holds two strands of a rope, which equates to double the force.

WEIGHT AND DURABILITY

As with any climbing gear, weight is an important factor. This is especially crucial if you’re planning to spend a long time on a route since minimizing the load is essential. The heavier the pulley, the stronger and more durable it tends to be. But after several days on a wall, you’ll be able to feel the benefits of a lighter pulley.

Lighter pulleys are generally made of plastic or nylon and not as durable or strong as heavier ones, which are made of metal. The pulleys used in this guide range from 42g to 425g.

CONSTRUCTION

The complexity of your pulley will depend on where you plan to use it. A simple, light, plastic pulley is great for glacial travel. Without side-plates though, the rope will be prone to fall off the pulley.

A pulley with side-plates will help prevent this. The type of side-plate is also a consideration. Some side-plates have curved edges to prevent a prusik from getting caught in the pulley.

A nylon pulley wheel will last longer than a plastic one, but not as durable as the kinds that are made of metal. Most of the metal in a pulley is heat-treated to make them last longer. Nylon and metal wheels are usually on self-lubricating bearings to ensure they run smoothly.

The size of the pulley wheel is also important. A larger pulley wheel will make hauling heavy loads up a wall easier, but this will also increase the weight.

ROPE COMPATIBILITY

Not all pulleys are created equal. Some are designed to work with ropes of smaller diameter, while others are for ones with larger measurements. The range in the pulleys in this article are from 7mm (a tag line) to 16mm (a heavy, but sturdy rope).

For most purposes, whether you’ll use the pulley to haul or belay with, you probably want one that can comfortably accommodate a rope of about 9-10mm diameter. For fatter ropes, which are used to haul enormous loads, a more specialized pulley may be needed.

SIMPLE OR AUTO-LOCKING

A simple pulley will reduce friction and make it easier to pull up a load than running the rope through a carabiner. They are great for light loads and for setting up 2:1, 3:1, or more rigging systems.

They are also cheaper than auto-locking pulleys. If you only need a pulley for basic tasks, choose a simple one.

Auto-locking pulleys are more versatile and typically have a camming device that bites the rope when weighted. This locks off the rope and only allows it to pass through the pulley in one direction. For hauling, it means you don’t have to hold the weight as you reset your position to start hauling again. You can just let the rope go and the auto-locking pulley will hold it still.

An auto-locking pulley also allows you to self-belay because the rope only goes through the pulley in one direction, capturing your upwards progress and preventing you from dropping down if you fall, let go or just sit on the rope.

For simul-climbers, an auto-locking device means the leader can run the rope through an auto-locking pulley and attach it to a piece of protection – either a bolt or trad protection such as a cam or a nut. If the follower falls, the auto-locking pulley will catch him or her without pulling the leader off the climb.

Auto-locking pulleys usually have a feature to disable the auto-locking mechanism, turning them into simple pulley wheels again. This makes them extremely versatile and popular. But, they tend to be heavier and more expensive than a simple pulley. They also tend to be more complex, so you should be doubly sure you are using them correctly.

The post Best Rock Climbing Pulleys of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. These will give you a good range of sizes. This is important for having the correct size on your rack for the placement that you’re about to use.

Most climbers start off with a set of ‘regular’ nuts, then supplement these over time with a second set or some offset and micro nuts. Variety is best, so if you’re going to buy two sets, make sure they’re different brands. This will give you more placement options.

For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Climbing Cams.

Reviews - The Best Nuts for Rock Climbing

Black Diamond Stoppers

Specs

• Type: Standard
• Number in Set: 10

BEST FOR: A FIRST SET OF NUTS

PROS: Great range of sizes, easy to use

CONS: Don’t sit as well as some other brands

SHAPE: Standard curve

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Wild Country Rocks

Specs

• Type: Standard
• Number in Set: 14

BEST FOR: EVERYTHING!

PROS: Huge range of sizes, place easily

CONS: Not available as a full set in the US

SHAPE: Standard curve

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Black Diamond Offset Micro Stoppers

Specs

• Type: Micro Offset
• Number in Set: 6

BEST FOR: FLARED THIN CRACKS, AID CLIMBING

PROS: Copper/iron mix bites really well, flared shape fits granite cracks perfectly

CONS: Smallest two sizes for direct aid only

SHAPE: Offset

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DMM Wallnuts

Specs

• Type: Curved
• Number in Set: 11

BEST FOR: A CURVIER ALTERNATIVE TO BLACK DIAMOND OR WILD COUNTRY

PROS: Different shape gives more variety of placements

CONS: Can get stuck quite easily

SHAPE: Standard with a bit of extra curve

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Metolius Curve Nuts

Specs

• Type: Curved
• Number in Set: 10

BEST FOR: A SECOND SET OF NUTS

PROS: Curved shape gives a huge variety of placement options, lightweight

CONS: Softer wire means nuts can get stuck more easily

SHAPE: Curved sides

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Black Diamond Micro Stoppers

Specs

• Type: Micro
• Number in Set: 6

BEST FOR: REALLY SMALL PLACEMENTS

PROS: Copper/iron mix provides great ‘bite’ in small placements, comes with racking carabiner

CONS: Smallest two sizes are for direct aid placements only – they’re not strong enough for free climbing

SHAPE: Standard

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DMM Micro Wallnuts

Specs

• Type: Micro
• Number in Set: 4

BEST FOR: THIN CRACKS

PROS: Color coded, large surface area for a small nut

CONS: Smallest two sizes for direct aid only

SHAPE: Standard

View at Backcountry

DMM Alloy Offsets

Specs

• Type: Offset
• Number in Set: 5

BEST FOR: GRANITE CRACKS

PROS: Offset shape fits perfectly into flared granite cracks

CONS: Only available in larger sizes, heavy

SHAPE: Offset

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Wild Country Superlight Offsets

Specs

• Type: Offset
• Number in Set: 6

BEST FOR: ALPINE CLIMBING

PROS: Thin shape fits into shallow cracks easily, lightweight

CONS: Soft wire makes removal tricky

SHAPE: Offset

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CLIMBING NUTS

SHAPE

Most climbing nuts have some kind of tapered shape, with all four sides flaring out from the base to the top of the nut. Different manufacturers will make their nuts in slightly different shapes. Which is best? There isn’t one shape that’s always better than another. How well a nut fits into a placement depends on the placement itself.

It’s good to have a range of shapes of nuts on your rack. This means you’re more likely to have one to fit any particular placement well. Do this by having nuts from a range of manufacturers.

OFFSET NUTS

Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot.

MICRO NUTS

Micro nuts are, simply, really small nuts. They’re often made out of brass, which is softer than the alloy used in bigger nuts. Although they’re essential for really tiny placements, they’re not as versatile as larger sized nuts as they can’t be placed sideways in the crack.

Micro nuts also aren’t as strong as bigger nuts. Some are often only rated up to a few kiloNewtons, which can easily be exceeded if you take a big fall onto them.

Because of this, micro nuts are only really used for marginal placements and aid climbing. Having a few on your rack might increase your confidence where there would be no other gear, but they shouldn’t be relied on to hold big falls.

NUMBER OF NUTS

Nut sets usually have around ten nuts on them. Buying a set is usually the cheapest way to buy them, so try to pick one that has enough nuts on it to get you started. You’re looking for a big range of sizes and at least ten nuts.

The exception to this is some more specialized nuts such as offset nuts and micro nuts. These tend to come in sets of 5-6.

You can buy nuts individually too, which is great if you lose one or just need an extra size.

LEARN TO PLACE THEM

The best nuts in the world are useless if you don’t know how to use them. Once you’ve bought your first set (or have borrowed a friends), go out and learn to place them correctly.

The safest way to do this is to walk along the bottom of the rock face and find suitable cracks to place them in. Check the nut seems secure, then clip a sling and carabiner to it and stand on it. If it holds, it’s a good sign!

When placing a nut you need to match the size and curve of the nut to the shape of the crack. Look for a constriction in the crack that will hold the nut. Slot it in when it’s wider above, then slide it down to let it sit in the constriction. You want to get as much surface area as possible in contact between the nut and the rock.

‘Seat’ the nut by giving it a good, hard tug downwards. This stops it being lifted out or moved around by the motion of the rope as you climb. It’s easiest to do this by attaching a quickdraw.

It’s a good idea to get professional instruction on placing trad gear before heading out on your first trad climbs.

GET SOME RACKING CARABINERS

As well as buying a shiny new set of nuts, you’ll need to get some carabiners to rack them on, so you can clip them to your harness. Most people rack 5-10 nuts on one carabiner.

If you have more than one set of nuts, it’s personal preference whether you rack the big and small ones together, or a full set on each carabiner. If you go for grouping them by size it’s easier to find the right nut for a placement, but you’re more likely to drop all your big or small nuts.

Rack nuts on a snapgate carabiner. Using a carabiner with a solid gate (rather than a wire gate) can stop nuts getting caught in the gate and then being dropped. Make sure the carabiner is big enough to comfortably hold all the nuts. This will make it easier to select the right one and stop them getting tangled together.

GET A NUT TOOL

A nut tool is essential if you’re going to place nuts on your climbs. Sometimes nuts can be removed simply by wiggling them and reversing the direction that they went in to the crack. But often they can’t – they will have become wedged in place and need more force to remove.

This is where your nut tool comes in. This is a long metal hook, that can be used to ‘hammer’ the nut out. They’re also really useful for retrieving stuck cams that have walked out of reach, or cleaning out grassy or muddy cracks to find a placement. Every trad climber needs a nut tool.

Look for one that has a fairly wide base to hit with your hand. If it’s too sharp you’ll get a really sore hand trying to bash your nuts out!

The post Best Climbing Nuts of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

As well as using them to belay at the crag or in the gym, belay gloves are often used for rappelling. The friction generated by the rope on a long rappel can hurt. Using leather gloves means you’re more comfortable and safer on rappel.

Gloves are also used for aid climbing, where you spend longer holding on to the rope and gear than you would free climbing. Aid climbing gloves are great for belaying too.

For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Belay Devices. 

Reviews - The Best Belay Gloves for Rock Climbing

Petzl Cordex

Specs

• Finger Length: Full
• Weight: 115g
• Palm Fabric: Double Layer Leather

BEST FOR: GENERAL BELAY USE

PROS: Stretchy back gives close fit, durable palms, reinforced clip-in points

CONS: Back fabric isn’t very hardwearing

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Black Diamond Crag

Specs

• Finger Length: Full
• Weight: 70g
• Palm Fabric: Synthetic Leather

BEST FOR: ALL ROUND BELAY USE

PROS: Cool in hot weather, stretchy for close and comfortable fit, knuckle padding, soft nose wipe on thumb

CONS: Not as hard wearing as full leather gloves

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Metolius Belay Slave

Specs

• Finger Length: Full
• Weight: 80g
• Palm Fabric: Synthetic Leather

BEST FOR: GENERAL BELAY USE

PROS: Hardwearing, inexpensive

CONS: Wrist is quite tight

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Black Diamond Crag Half-Finger

Specs

• Finger Length: Half
• Weight: 50g
• Palm Fabric: Synthetic Leather

BEST FOR: SUMMER BELAY USE

PROS: Cheap, added dexterity, lightweight

CONS: Fit small

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Black Diamond Transition

Specs

• Finger Length: Full
• Weight: 93g
• Palm Fabric: Leather

BEST FOR: RAPPELLING AND BELAY USE

PROS: Hardwearing leather

CONS: Some users report stitching failing

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Petzl Cordex Plus

Specs

• Finger Length: Full
• Weight: 140g
• Palm Fabric: Double Layer Leather

BEST FOR: ALL ROUND BELAY AND RAPPELLING

PROS: Very hardwearing, stretch knuckle areas

CONS: Inconsistent sizing, heavy

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Black Diamond Stone

Specs

• Finger Length: Half
• Weight: 118g
• Palm Fabric: Leather

BEST FOR: AID CLIMBING

PROS: Good fit, good dexterity

CONS: Some users have reported stitching failure

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Outdoor Research Air Brake

Specs

• Finger Length: Full
• Weight: 100g
• Palm Fabric: Leather

BEST FOR: RAPPELLING

PROS: Great fit, stretch cuff, hardwearing, heat absorbing gel pads on palms

CONS: Neoprene wrist can soak up sweat, red dye leaks

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Outdoor Research Hand Break

Specs

• Finger Length: Half
• Weight: 119g
• Palm Fabric: Leather and Suede

BEST FOR: HEAVY DUTY ROPE WORK

PROS: Great knuckle protection, very hardwearing

CONS: Hard to remove

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST BELAY GLOVES

LENGTH OF FINGERS

The length of the fingers of your gloves is the main choice you have to make when buying a pair. Belay gloves are available with full fingers, half fingers and sometimes three-quarter fingers. Some manufacturers make the same glove in both full and half finger versions.

Full finger gloves protect your whole hand. They’re great for belaying and rappelling when you’ll be handling the rope a lot. They’re also perfect for use jumaring and hauling on big walls. The added protection you get on your upper fingers could mean your skin lasts a little bit longer for that hard redpoint.

The disadvantage of full finger gloves is their dexterity. As anyone who ice climbs knows, it’s much harder to handle ropes and tie knots when you’ve got a pair of gloves on. If you go for a full finger pair, try and buy a pair that’s close fitting at the end of the fingers. If the fingers are too long for your hands, the ends of the glove are likely to get trapped in carabiners or knots.

Half finger gloves give you much more dexterity. This is useful when you have to handle a lot of gear, for example if you are setting up anchors whilst on rappel. It’s also essential for leading an aid pitch, where you have to place small gear.

Three-quarter fingers are a good compromise as they protect almost your whole finger, leaving just your finger tips exposed.

FABRIC

Belay gloves are made out of leather, synthetic leather and synthetic stretch fabrics. Most have the palm made out of either real or synthetic leather.

Which fabric you go for is mainly personal preference. Real leather tends to last longer than synthetic, although there are now some very hardwearing synthetic options. Real leather also tends to mold to your hand better and many people find it more comfortable to wear.

Look out for extra reinforcement on high-wear areas, such as the palm and space between your thumb and index finger. Many gloves have double layered leather here, or a second layer of suede.

The fabric on the back of the hand is more variable. Some gloves are entirely leather. Others use a breathable stretch mesh on the back. The lighter the fabric on the back of your hand, the cooler the glove will be in summer heat. Many people also find a stretch fabric more comfortable than leather.

If you’re using the gloves a lot though, a mesh fabric is unlikely to last as long as a leather or synthetic leather back.

WRIST CLOSURE

Most belay gloves have an adjustable wrist closure. Often this is a velcro tab that can be closed as tight as you want, or left loose.

It’s important to find a wrist closure that isn’t too tight, as that will cut off circulation to your hands. But it needs to be tight enough that the gloves don’t ride up in use and become baggy on your hands.

CLIP IN LOOP

When climbing, you’re unlikely to want belay gloves on all the time. Get a pair that have an attachment point for a carabiner so you can hang them from your harness when you’re not using them.

KNUCKLE PROTECTION

Some gloves have extra knuckle protection on the back of the hand. You won’t need this if you’re mainly belaying at a sport crag or at the gym.

If you’re belaying a lot on cramped trad multipitch anchors, or rappelling complex lines, your knuckles will thank you for having some extra protection. It’s great for aid climbing too.

The post Best Belay Gloves of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Whether you are a gym climber, trad climber, sport climber, alpine climber or all of the above, our goal here at The Adventure Junkies is to help you pick the best belay device and get you one step closer to your next adventure.

Awesome belay technique is the most important part about being a great belayer. As belaying is critically important to the safety of the climber, we recommend learning proper belay technique from an expert or through an AMGA-certified course to get you going.

For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Pulleys for Rock Climbing. 

Reviews - The Best Rock Climbing Belay Devices

Petzl GriGri

Specs

• Weight: 6.1 oz
• Rope Size: 8.9 mm - 11.0 mm
• Style: Brake Assist

BEST USE: SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH

PROS: Smooth rope handling, easy to use, standard brake assist device in the industry

CONS: Fairly expensive, single strand only

ROPE SLOTS: One

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Black Diamond ATC Guide

Specs

• Weight: 3.2 oz
• Rope Size: 7.7 mm - 11.0 mm
• Style: Auto-block Tube

BEST USE: MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING; SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH

PROS: Great for belaying a second on multi-pitch climbs, accommodates single or double ropes, good value

CONS: Lowering is difficult in guide mode, not ideal with thicker ropes

ROPE SLOTS: Two

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Black Diamond ATC

Specs

• Weight: 2.0 oz
• Rope Size: 7.7 mm - 11.0 mm
• Style: Tube

BEST USE: SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH

PROS: Very lightweight, inexpensive, accommodates single or double ropes, good for rappelling

CONS: No guide mode for use on multi-pitch climbs

ROPE SLOTS: Two

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Wild Country Revo

Specs

• Weight: 8.6 oz
• Rope Size: 8.5 mm - 11 mm
• Style: Brake Assist

BEST USE: EMERGENCY BACK-UP BELAY DEVICE

PROS: Great option for experienced and beginner climbers alike

CONS: Heavy & bulky

ROPE SLOTS: One

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Petzl Reverso

Specs

• Weight: 2.2 oz
• Rope Size: 7.5 mm - 11.0 mm
• Style: Auto-block Tube

BEST USE: LIGHTWEIGHT EXPEDITIONS

PROS: Lightweight, great for belaying a second on multi-pitch climbs, accommodates single or double ropes, good value

CONS: Lowering is difficult in guide mode, not ideal with thicker ropes

ROPE SLOTS: Two

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Edelrid Mega Jul

Specs

• Weight: 2.3 oz
• Rope Size: 7.8 mm - 10.5 mm
• Style: Passive Brake Assist

BEST USE: MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING; SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH

PROS: Lightweight, small, great value, accommodates single or double ropes, strong braking assistance

CONS: Poor auto-block friction, rappelling/lowering can be strenuous

ROPE SLOTS: Two

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Climbing Technology Click Up Plus

Specs

• Weight: 4.3 oz
• Rope Size: 8.6 mm - 10.5 mm
• Style: Passive Brake Assist

BEST USE: GYM CLIMBING; BEGINNERS

PROS: Suitable for beginners and children because intuitive and error-proof, no moving parts

CONS: Doesn’t lock up immediately for top-rope “takes” or when belaying a lighter climber

ROPE SLOTS: One

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DMM Pivot

Specs

• Weight: 2.6 oz
• Rope Size: 7.3 mm - 11.0 mm
• Style: Auto-block Tube

BEST USE: MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING; SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH

PROS: Unique pivot system for easy lowering when in guide mode, accommodates single or double ropes, good for rappelling

CONS: Not ideal with thicker ropes

ROPE SLOTS: Two

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Mammut Smart

Specs

• Weight: 4.8 oz
• Rope Size: 8.7 mm - 10.5 mm
• Style: Passive Brake Assist

BEST USE: SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH; ALPINE CLIMBING

PROS: Good value, durable, dynamically brakes the climber in a fall

CONS: Somewhat bulky, jerky when rappelling/lowering

ROPE SLOTS: Two

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CAMP USA Matik

Specs

• Weight: 9.7 oz
• Rope Size: 8.6 mm - 10.2 mm
• Style: Brake Assist

BEST USE: BEGINNERS; SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH

PROS: Gradual camming action, anti-panic system blocks rope in emergency, easier for lefties

CONS: Very expensive, heavy, not as smooth as a GriGri, single strand only

ROPE SLOTS: One

View at Backcountry

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST BELAY DEVICES

BELAY DEVICE STYLE

BRAKE ASSIST

Brake assist belay devices offer a mechanical advantage to help the belayer to brake effectively. These devices are especially useful when you are belaying someone on a project (a route that is very difficult for the climber) and catching lots of falls. They are also great if your climber calls “Take!”, because with proper belay technique no extra slack can pass through the device. Brake assist devices are often equipped with a camming mechanism.

PASSIVE BRAKE ASSIST

Passive brake assist devices also help with braking when tension is applied in the system. These devices work by pinching the rope between the device and a carabiner.

TUBULAR

Regular tubular belay devices offer no brake assist. These devices arrest a fall by relying on friction between the rope and the device coupled with proper belay technique. They are simple to use, light and inexpensive. 

AUTO-BLOCK TUBULAR

Auto-block tubular belay devices have an additional metal loop on the side. The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top-belay a second. Top-belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto-blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall.

In all situations, the brake hand should never come off the rope when you are belaying. Remember that even brake assist devices are not foolproof and must be always be used with correct belaying technique.

SINGLE OR DUAL ROPE SLOTS

One advantage of dual rope slots in a belay device is that it is easy to rappel using the same device. In many situations routes may not have fixed anchors, meaning that rappelling is often necessary. Many multi-pitch routes also require that climbers rappel to descend.

Climbers who prefer to climb alpine and multi-pitch routes with twin or half ropes also need a belay device that can accommodate both ropes at once.

WEIGHT

Are you heading into the alpine or planning to tackle some long multi-pitch routes? If so, weight is probably one of your deciding factors when choosing gear. Belay tubes are much lighter than brake assist devices and tend to be a great choice for these pursuits. They are also simple to use and have two rope slots which make them great for rappelling. 

If you tend to climb mostly in the gym or on single pitch routes outside, weight is less of a concern and a heavier brake assist device is a great option.

CARING FOR YOUR DEVICE

Store your belay device when it is clean and dry. If gunk has accumulated in your device, use an old toothbrush to gently remove it. Inspect your device regularly to watch for grooves or sharp edges forming in the metal which may come in contact with your rope.

The post Best Belay Devices of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Trad climbing gear is a big investment, so it’s important to know what options are available before you buy.

Traditional climbers use both active and passive gear for protection. Camming devices (active “pro”) are a versatile gear innovation and we at The Adventure Junkies are devoting this entire article to teaching you about them. Before your trad rack is complete however, consider adding a least one set of stoppers, also called nuts, for your passive protection.

For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Climbing Nuts.

Reviews - The Best Cams for Rock Climbing

Black Diamond Camalot C4

Specs

• Number Available: 10
• Size: 13.8-195mm
• Weight Class: Average

PROS: Best cam in the industry, first to produce a double axle, good in tight placements, new ultralight version also available

CONS: So popular that you run the risk of mixing up your cams with your crag mates

CAM LOBES: Four

OFFSET AVAILABLE: No

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Wildcountry Friends

Specs

• Number Available: 8
• Size: 20.6-194mm
• Weight Class: Light

PROS: An update of the original commercial cam from 1977, great in horizontal and awkward placements due to narrow, flexible stem, hollow axle reduces cam weight without sacrificing strength

CONS: Slightly smaller range per cam compared to Camalots

CAM LOBES: Four

OFFSET AVAILABLE: No

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Black Diamond Camalot X4

Specs

• Number Available: 6
• Size: 8.4-41.2mm
• Weight Class: Average

PROS: Four lobes offer great stability for a small cam, stacked axle on three smallest sizes gives greater range than any other small 4CU on market, flexible stems and good in flared cracks

CONS: Expensive

CAM LOBES: Four

OFFSET AVAILABLE: Yes

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Metolius Ultralight Mastercam

Specs

• Number Available: 10
• Size: 8.5-71.5mm
• Weight Class: Ultralight

PROS: Best value on the market and 20% lighter than original Mastercams

CONS: Stems are a little stiff, short sling might be limiting

CAM LOBES: Four

OFFSET AVAILABLE: Yes

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Metolius Ultralight TCU

Specs

• Number Available: 7
• Size: 6.6-35.5mm
• Weight Class: Ultralight

PROS: Lightest cams available

CONS: Cams may walk more easily than others, not useful in pin scars

CAM LOBES: Three

OFFSET AVAILABLE: No

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DMM Dragon Cam

Specs

• Number Available: 8
• Size: 13-114mm
• Weight Class: Average

PROS: New version with enhanced friction, good in tight placements, built in extendable sling

CONS: No thumb loop makes it difficult for aid climbing

CAM LOBES: Four

OFFSET AVAILABLE: No

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Trango Flex

Specs

• Number Available: 9
• Size: 11-107mm
• Weight Class: Average

PROS: Inexpensive, light for their size, can protect angled and horizontal cracks

CONS: Largest sizes feel unbalanced due to heavy head-to-stem ratio

CAM LOBES: Four

OFFSET AVAILABLE: No

View at Backcountry

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST CLIMBING CAMS

WHY CAMS?

Cams are active protection and represent one type of gear used by traditional climbers. Cams have multiple lobes that are designed to expand into parallel or flared cracks and openings in rock. They can also be used in horizontal weaknesses (common in places like The Gunks). Unlike passive nuts or stoppers, they do not require a constriction to be effective.

We recommend learning as much as you can about cams before you buy. To keep your rack as clean and organized as possible, you may want to limit your choices to as few brands as possible.

SIZES

The size of the cams you need depend on the size of the crack you are climbing and need to protect. A crack is usually described based on how one’s hand fits into it. A “hand size” crack is typically protected with cams in the 40-75mm (around 1.5-3.0”) range, and climbed using hand jams. Many people consider a complete trad rack to be doubles of most of the camming range plus a set of nuts. Be aware that you will likely need more than two of a given size when climbing splitter lines in places like Indian Creek though.

Small cams (sizes 8-33mm or .33-1.25″) are typically used in finger sized cracks and smaller. Cams with three camming lobes are developed specifically as small protection, but modern four lobe cams can be quite small too.

Medium – Big Cams (sizes 38-130+mm or 1.5-5+”) are typically used for hand sized cracks and larger. The industry standard for medium and big cams is the Black Diamond Camalot C4, which introduced the double axle and revolutionized active protection.

WEIGHT

The weight of cams adds up quickly when you consider how much gear trad climbers carry. One strategy to mitigate the weight is to learn which pieces are necessary to protect a route before leaving the ground and then only bring what you need.

In multipitch scenarios however, climbers often carry a nearly complete rack in order to protect all sizes of cracks they may find on the route. In 2016, Black Diamond released their Ultralight Camalots, which shave considerable weight off their cams. Metolius, on the other hand, completely replaced their Mastercam and TCU lines with the Ultralight versions.

NUMBER OF LOBES

Modern spring-loaded camming devices can have either three or four cam lobes. All medium to big cams have four lobes for maximum surface area and stability in placements. In small sizes however, you may find yourself deciding between three or four lobes. Four lobe cams can occasionally walk into cracks, whereas three lobe cams can walk out of cracks. While the two designs are essentially interchangeable in small placements, three lobe cams have narrower heads and are often a better choice in tighter spots.

OFFSET CAMS

An offset cam, also known as a hybrid cam, is built with two lobes of one size and two lobes of the neighboring size. These specialty cams are useful in flared cracks where the size of the opening changes from front to back. They are more commonly used in places where trad routes were originally aid climbed and pinscars remain in the rock to place protection in. If you are using cams for aid climbing, offset cams are a great choice.

MAINTENANCE

Always inspect your climbing gear for visible damage. If you are concerned, several cam manufacturing companies will inspect your cams for you as well. The trigger wires and slings are often the first places on the cam to show wear, but both can usually be replaced. Always ensure your cams are clean and dry, and store them away from UV light and corrosive materials. If your cams get wet they can easily be dried and re-lubed.

The post Best Climbing Cams of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Here at The Adventure Junkies, our goal is to help make your life easier when it comes to gearing up for climbing. In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to choose a quickdraw and show you some of the best models of the year.

For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Carabiners. 

Reviews - The Best Rock Climbing Quickdraws

Petzl Spirit Express

Specs

• Gate: Solid
• Lengths: 12, 17 cm
• Weight: 3.3 oz

PROS: Clips smooth and fast, ergonomic dogbone is easy to grab, keylock technology prevents rope from getting caught

CONS: Fairly expensive, not ideal for trad or alpine climbing

SLING: Polyester

MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 23 kN

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CAMP USA Orbit Express

Specs

• Gate: Solid
• Lengths: 11 cm
• Weight: 3.6 oz

PROS: Great value, keylock technology prevents rope from getting caught

CONS: Heavy, one length only

SLING: Polyester

MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 22 kN

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Petzl Ange Finesse

Specs

• Gate: Wire
• Lengths: 10, 17 cm
• Weight: 2.2 oz

PROS: Lightweight, modified keylock technology prevents rope from getting caught, durable

CONS: Expensive, small biners, specialized

SLING: Dyneema

MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 20 kN

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Mammut Crag Express

Specs

• Gate: Solid, Wire
• Lengths: 10 cm
• Weight: 3.6 oz

PROS: Easy to grab, keylock on bolt end, wire gate on rope end adds lightness

CONS: Heavy, notched gate occasionally gets caught, one length only

SLING: Nylon

MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 24 kN

 

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Mad Rock Super Light

Specs

• Gate: Solid, Wire
• Lengths: 10 cm
• Weight: 2.6 oz

PROS: Great value, keylock on bolt end, wire gate on rope end adds lightness

CONS: Notched gate occasionally gets caught, one length only

SLING: Dyneema

MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 24 kN

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Edelrid Nineteen G

Specs

• Gate: Wire
• Lengths: 10, 18 cm
• Weight: 1.7 oz

PROS: Extremely light, remarkably easy to clip

CONS: Notched gate occasionally gets caught, very small biners, specialized

SLING: Dyneema

MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 20 kN

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Black Diamond Freewire

Specs

• Gate: Wire
• Lengths: 12, 18 cm
• Weight: 3.5 oz

PROS: Great value, large enough biners to grab with gloves on when ice climbing

CONS: Notched gate occasionally gets caught

SLING: Polyester

MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH: 24 kN

View at Moosejaw

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST QUICKDRAWS FOR ROCK CLIMBING

CLIMBING STYLE

The style of climbing you do can help you narrow in on the best quickdraw choice for you.

QUICKDRAWS FOR SPORT CLIMBING

Sport climbers tend to prefer beefy draws. A wide dogbone is much easier to grab for those times when you’re working a route or need to pull on a draw. Large biners are also preferred because they make clipping easy and efficient. Solid gate keylock carabiners are great for sport climbing and top roping because they won’t get caught on the rope when unclipping.

QUICKDRAWS FOR TRAD & ALPINE CLIMBING

Traditional and alpine climbers are focused on weight. Quickdraws designed for these disciplines will have lightweight carabiners and skinny dogbones. The carabiners are usually wire gate as these are lighter and less prone to icing up.

QUICKDRAWS FOR ALL-AROUND CLIMBING

All-around quickdraws have elements that make them suitable for the climber that does a little bit of everything. Often these draws have medium width dogbones, are in a mid-weight range, and have good overall handling.

SOLID GATE OR WIRE GATE

The carabiners on your quickdraw come with either a solid gate or a wire gate. All carabiners need to latch in some way when the gate closes.

SOLID GATE CARABINERS

Solid gate carabiners have a groove in the gate which slides over the smooth biner nose, and are referred to as keylock biners. Keylock biners have no notch for the rope to catch on and are ideal for sport climbing.

WIRE GATE CARABINERS

Wire gate carabiners often have a notch on the nose to latch the gate when it closes. In response to ropes getting caught in these notches while unclipping, some companies have released innovative solutions like hoodwire technology and modified keylock. Wire gate carabiners are lighter, less prone to gate flutter, and do not ice over as easily as solid gate biners.

WEIGHT AND STRENGTH

The carabiners and the dogbone both contribute to the weight of a quickdraw. Alpine and traditional climbers use a lot of heavy gear, so lightweight quickdraws are a huge plus. Small wire gate carabiners with narrow dogbones are common for this type of climbing.

All climbing carabiners meet a minimum strength standard, however heavier carabiners are often rated to a higher kN strength. A quickdraw rated to 20 kN along its major strength axis can handle up to 4500 lbs of generated force.

Controlled experiments that test the limits of gear have found heavy and higher strength carabiners often handle more high factor falls before warping or breaking. If you’re sport climbing and expect to be taking repeated giant whips on your quickdraws, look for heftier biners.

LENGTH

The length of your dogbone comes down to personal preference. A quickdraw with a shorter dogbone will be less expensive, but longer quickdraws are more versatile. If you are climbing routes that wander, longer draws can help reduce rope drag.

LIFESPAN

Always monitor the dogbone that connects the two carabiners on your quickdraw for wear. UV light and abrasion are the two big killers of slings. Dogbones usually last between two and ten years depending on the amount of use and the manufacturer recommendations.

The lifespan of the carabiners is indefinite, but with a lot of use they will eventually need to be replaced. Watch the groove at the base of the rope-end biner, which can wear down and develop sharp edges after repeated use and falls. Also, watch for sticky gates that no longer close or other visible damage.

Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on the lifespan of your gear. Check your gear frequently, and be smart.

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