Though rebreathers all perform the same task: removing additional CO2 from the breathing loop while adding the necessary amount of oxygen or nitrox – The way different models execute this task varies. Remember, a rebreather is a huge investment, and thus it’s important that you take the time to find the right machine for you and your type of diving.

One of our goals here at The Adventure Junkies is to make your life easier when it comes to gear shopping. In this guide, we’ll walk you through some things to consider before buying a rebreather and show you our selection of some of the best models out there.

For more of our top scuba gear recommendations, check out the Best Underwater Scooters. 

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST REBREATHERS

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST REBREATHERS

PICTURE	REBREATHER	BEST USE	PRICE	RATING
	AP INSPIRATION EVP CCR	Technical	$$	4.5
	REVO III CCR	Technical	$$	4.4
	AP INSPIRATION EVO CCR	Technical	$$	4.5
	MAGALODON CCR	Technical	$$$	5.0
	JJ CCR	Technical	$$$	5.0
	KISS EXPLORER MCCR	Technical	$	4.5
	SENTINEL REDHEAD CCR	Technical	$$	4.0
PICTURE	REBREATHER	BEST USE	PRICE	RATING

REBREATHERS REVIEWS

AP INSPIRATION EVP CCR

REVO III CCR

AP INSPIRATION EVO CCR

MEGALODON CCR

JJ CCR

KISS EXPLORER MCCR

SENTINEL REDHEAD

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST REBREATHERS

THE TYPE OF DIVING YOU DO

Rebreathers are ideal for divers who conduct long or deep technical dives using mixed gas. These machines are also ideal for underwater photographers and scientists who wish to stay shallow for long periods of time. There are many advantages of diving with a rebreather, but there are also many disadvantages.

ADVANTAGES OF A REBREATHER

Gas and deco efficiency (especially with expensive helium!)

Longer bottom and dive times

Silent

DISADVANTAGES OF A REBREATHER

Expense

Exceptional understanding of the machine and discipline is crucial

Complex

A rebreather should be viewed as a ‘mission specific item.’ Your field of diving should be able to exploit all the merits and benefits of this piece of technology. Considering the exceptional cost, maintenance, and life risk that the machine imposes, you’ll need to consider whether a rebreather is ideal for your type of diving.

If you are just learning to dive or can complete your dive goal and mission on a single tank of air, then maybe a rebreather is not the right piece of equipment for you. Typically, rebreathers are not the ideal choice for general recreational / sport diving.

Rebreathers also come in different designs, and some designs are more suited for certain types of diving. For example, if you are doing lots of wreck penetration dives or tight cave dives then you’ll want a slim designed machine instead of a larger bulky one.

DO YOU UNDERSTAND REBREATHER DIVING?

Rebreathers are a complicated piece of technology. You need to have an in-depth knowledge of how this machine works. Rebreather diving also requires good understanding of diving physics and physiology.

Understanding how your machine works and how it affects your dive profile and body while diving is crucial. You’ll have to complete a four / five-day training course before you are legally able to purchase a machine. This course is only the first step, and you should be prepared for continual learning. There is always room for skill improvement and better understanding of the physics and physiology of rebreather diving.

YOUR COMMITMENT

Owning a rebreather is like being in a marriage. There is no way around it; a rebreather needs proper care and commitment. Failing to do so, you risk equipment malfunction which often leads to death.

Constant maintenance, pre-dive and post-dive checks and regular skill enhancing are all part of owning a rebreather. All these things will take up more of your time than diving with it underwater.

A perfectionist mindset is ideal. You’ll constantly need to check things over and over again. If you are the ‘lazy diver type’ who enjoys taking naps between dives and kitting up as late as possible, then rebreather diving is not for you.

TYPE OF REBREATHER

There are lots of different types and models of rebreathers available today. The most common is the closed circuit rebreather (CCR). You have the option of purchasing either an eCCR or an mCCR. The main difference between the two is the way oxygen is inserted into the breathing loop.

ECCR – ELECTRONIC CLOSED CIRCUIT REBREATHERS

Electronic Closed Circuit Rebreathers use a computer to constantly measure the amount of oxygen in your breathing loop and automatically maintain the PPO2 set point.

MCCR – MANUAL CLOSED CIRCUIT REBREATHERS

Manual Closed Circuit Rebreathers require the diver to constantly check the PPO2 level in the breathing loop and manually inject more oxygen when necessary to keep the oxygen content at the correct level. These machines are cheaper and simpler than eCCR’s but require a whole new level of diver diligence.

SEMI-CLOSED CIRCUIT REBREATHERS

Semi-Closed Circuit Rebreathers are also available. These machines lose gas with every exhalation. They also keep a constant percentage of oxygen, unlike fully closed units. This is not ideal for decompression dives and is better suited for recreational depths.

SCRUBBER AND COUNTER LUNG DESIGN

One of the main life-saving components of a rebreather is the scrubber canister. This canister is composed of a chemical that is responsible for extracting the extra CO2 in your breathing loop. Scrubbers come in different sizes and designs which all affect its duration.

AXIAL

A cylindrical shaped pipe where the gas can pass in a vertical direction.

RADIAL

In a radial-shaped scrubber, the gas passes in a radial direction from the middle of the canister towards the outer sides. The radial design is known to have a longer duration.

COUNTER LUNGS

The counter lungs on a rebreather are the bag like features on the breathing loop. These bags can either be over the shoulder or back mounted. With back mounted counter lungs, the chest area is clutter free. This location of the counter lungs makes exhalation easier but inhalation harder.

Over the shoulder mounted counter lungs are designed to be placed as close to your real lungs as possible. This position has a better work of breathing than back mounted counter lungs, but the chest is cluttered.

Counter lungs also come in a variety of sizes so you will need to figure out which size suits you best.

WHAT OTHER FEATURES WOULD YOU LIKE?

What kind of electronics do you want on your rebreather? What design do you prefer for you Bail-Out valve? Would you prefer a machine with a head-up display and audible alarms?

Scrubber and counter lung design and placement are only one of many design variations on a rebreather. There are a variety of other different features that you will need to look into and research upon when buying a rebreather.

The post Best Rebreathers of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

QUICK ANSWER: THE BEST SCUBA DIVING SPOTS IN SOUTH AMERICA

1. Malpelo Island

2. Galápagos Islands

3. Fernando de Noronha

4. Peninsula Valdes

5. Abrolhos Marine Park

6. Easter Island

7. Los Roques

8. Providencia

MALPELO ISLAND – COLOMBIA

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/montgomerygilchrist

Often compared to Coco’s and the Galapagos Islands, Malpelo is famous for its abundance of large marine life, yet without the crowds. Far off the coast of Colombia, the island itself is only 8 square kilometers. It’s the 300km underwater volcanic ridge paired with the convergence of currents that attracts the sheer amount of marine life. Enormous schools of silky sharks, hammerheads, and pelagic fish circle the island. Sometimes the marine life is so dense, it blocks the sunlight!

Malpelo is not a dive destination for beginner divers, and advanced open water certification is mandatory. Each diver must have his own surface marker buoy and dive computer. There is no decompression chamber for hundreds of kilometers, so stay conservative while diving.

GALAPAGOS ISLANDS – ECUADOR

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/burnsboxco

Often referred to as a pilgrimage trip amongst the diving community, the Galapagos has it all. A unique convergence of islands in the Pacific west of Ecuador, these islands have become renowned for its biodiversity and conservation. Nearly 20% of life found here is found nowhere else in the world! The deep sea upwellings fill the waters surrounding these volcanic islands with nutrients, attracting a unique community of life.

Almost the entire region is preserved as a national park. Picture shoaling Galapagos sharks, sea lions, turtles, whales sharks, dolphins, rays and the iconic marine iguana. Though day trips are possible, the best sites are accessed only via liveaboard.

FERNANDO DE NORONHA – BRAZIL

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/leofrancini

One of Brazil’s better kept secrets, the island of Fernando de Noronha is a divers dream. A two-hour flight from the mainland, this little island is Brazil’s first marine park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It boasts some of the best visibility in the region, averaging at around 164 feet (50 meters).

A plethora of marine life inhabits these crystal clear waters. From tropical fish species to manta rays, sea turtles and reef sharks. Fernando de Noronha is also home to one of the biggest spinner dolphin colonies in the whole world as well as Brazil’s largest sea turtle colony. Preservation is strict, and only a limited amount of tourists are allowed on the island at a time. There is also a hefty tourism tax. Worth it, though.

PENINSULA VALDES – ARGENTINA

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/izanbar

For those who don’t mind bearing the cold, the Valdes Peninsula in Argentina is one magical place. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a mecca for special marine life encounters. Fur seals, southern right whales, penguins and sometimes even orca’s grace these frigid waters. The city of Puerto Madryn is the gateway to this cold wonderland. Plan your trip according to what you hope to see, as life is migrational here.

ABROLHOS MARINE PARK – BRAZIL

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/leofrancini

43 miles (70 kilometers) off the Brazilian coast is a desert-like island archipelago known as Abrolhos. Don’t be deceived by the barren top side look of the island’s; marine life thrives just under the surface. This area is uninhabited except for a few park rangers and is only accessible via liveaboard boat.

The water is bath warm and is home to around 270 species of fish. Sea turtles, dolphins and manta rays are also frequent visitors. If you happen to come during the months of July and November, you might be lucky enough to have an encounter with Humpback whales!

EASTER ISLAND – CHILE

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/DJMattaar

When people think of Easter Island, diving is not normally the first thing that comes to mind. In fact, Easter Island is home to some incredible diving. The average visibility is around 60 meters. Lacking regarding reef life, the main underwater attractions include vast rock formations, arches, and caves. A popular underwater attraction is a fake Moai statue placed on the seafloor. Though there is diving year-round, the best time to dive here is between the months of September and May.

LOS ROQUES – VENEZUELA

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/kjorgen

An island archipelago of 350 islands, Los Roques, is a must for any diver visiting Venezuela. A national park with a population of 1500 residents, the area has remained pristine. The reef life here is thriving, and the crystal clear water is a dream come true for divers. Along with the variety of tropical fish, nurse sharks and even the cheeky manta ray can be spotted here. There are numerous dive sites all around the archipelago. From shallow reefs and seagrass beds to steep walls and caverns, there is something for everyone at Los Roques.

PROVIDENCIA – COLOMBIA

Photo by istockphoto.com/portfolio/Matt_Potenski

The islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina in Colombia are home to the 3rd largest coral barrier reef on the planet. This vast reef boasts over 40 dives sites. From blue holes, caves to even wrecked pirate ships, the variety of sites is awe dropping. A UNESCO protected area, diving here means diving amongst some of the most beautiful corals in all of South America.

The post The 8 Best Diving Spots in South America appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

One of our big goals here at The Adventure Junkies is to teach you the skills you need to make your time underwater more enjoyable. In this article, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to capture your memories while diving.

TIP #1: KNOW THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SHOOTING UNDERWATER & ON LAND

One of the biggest challenges with shooting underwater is getting the right light and color. Underwater, light is affected by depth, the distance of your subject as well weather and surface conditions. Let’s talk about each factor in more detail.

DEPTH

Water absorbs light differently than air does. This means that as you go deeper, certain colors begin to disappear. Red is the first color to disappear underwater. This is why pictures that were taken underwater without a flash look blue or greenwashed. If not using a flash, it is recommended to use manual white balance in order to try and restore some color. Remember to adjust this every 5-10 ft.

To get a more detailed explanation of exactly how light is affected underwater, check out this informative post from LeisurePro.

SUBJECT DISTANCE

The closer you are to your subject, the better light and focus you will get in your image. If you take a photo of a subject that is far away, the photo will mostly appear foggy or blurry. Get as close as possible to your subject.

WEATHER & SURFACE CONDITIONS

The amount of light underwater is determined by the sun. On a dark and gloomy day, the light underwater will be limited. To get the most out of natural light, tilt yourself and shoot upwards. This will allow pictures to capture more light from the sun.

TIP #2: BE A GOOD DIVER

Having to think about all the factors that make a great photo is hard enough on land, now imagine doing this underwater! Being an expert diver is the first step in being a good UW photographer.

Perfect buoyancy is crucial and must be second nature. The last thing you want is to crash into a coral bommie because you couldn’t control your buoyancy as you were changing your camera settings. Also, holding onto a piece of coral while you try and position yourself for a good shot is a BIG no no!

Good buoyancy control will allow you to get close and personal with your subjects without causing a disturbance. If you are a diver who is keen to learn UW Photography but needs a bit more practice with buoyancy control, consider doing PADI’s Peak Performance Buoyancy course. This course will teach you how to hover effortlessly in any position – an essential skill for any UW Photographer.

TIP #3: USE THE PROPER EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR NEEDS

The world of UW photography equipment is daunting. Different diving cameras, lens and accessories are created for a myriad of different photography purposes. Remember, there is no one best UW camera, but rather the right or best camera system for your specific needs and level. Let’s talk about different underwater camera set ups to give you an idea of where to start.

CAMERAS

Point and shoot cameras are recommended for beginners due to ease of use and price. If you are already a competent photographer and want to get more out of a camera, then you might want to consider using a DSLR or mirrorless camera.

DSLR and mirrorless cameras take better images and are more versatile in function. They also have the option of interchangeable lenses. Though this comes at a higher price. It’s important to know that equipment alone will not make you a great UW photographer.

Want to learn more about what camera is best for underwater photography, check out our article all about dive cameras.

HOUSINGS

In most cases, housings and cameras come separately. Compact cameras are more limited in housing options than DLSR cameras. Before purchasing a housing for your camera, ask yourself the following: What is the depth limit of my housing and how deep do I want to go? Are all the controls accessible through this housing? What additional accessories can I add on with this specific model?

STROBES

Strobes are used to compensate for light availability issues underwater. Using a strobe flash will up the quality of your photographs more than buying a better camera.

Backscatter must be taken into consideration when using strobes. Backscatter is caused by the flash lighting up particles underwater. To get a better understanding of this phenomenon and how to avoid it, read this informative piece from the UW Photography Guide. A good tip to eliminate backscatter is to not position the strobe right next to the lens.

VIDEO: UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY GEAR OPTIONS

For a better understanding of the variety of equipment options available, watch this short video by photographer Tony Northrup.

TIP #4: PICTURE THE IMAGE YOU WANT BEFORE JUMPING IN

Going into a dive with the knowledge of what you want to shoot is crucial. David Fleethman, a professional UW photographer, recommends picturing the image you want to get before jumping in. This will help you decide if you will be shooting Wide-Angle or Macro. Read more about the best lenses for underwater photography to help you get the perfect shot.

MACRO UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY

Macro photography focuses on capturing the smaller creatures and details underwater. To take good macro shots, you will need to use a flash. If using a camera with interchangeable lenses, make sure you have a macro lens on and not a fisheye or wide angle lens. A tip for great macro photography is to focus on the subject’s eyes.

WIDE ANGLE UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY

Wide Angle photography will allow you to capture the awesomeness of big ocean creatures or underwater landscapes. Even with wide angle photography, you’re going to want to get as close as possible. If you’re just getting into wide angle photography, practice using ambient light. Once you are happy with your images, try adding strobes.

TIP #5: BE PATIENT!

Brian Skerry, one of the world’s most renowned UW photographers, says patience is key to getting a great photo.

As every diver knows, no sighting is guaranteed underwater. Be patient and wait for your subject. If your subject is already there, wait for the perfect conditions to shoot the image. Allow divers to swim away if they are in the background of the image or wait for your subject to assume an interesting position. The results will be worth it.

Don’t get too frustrated if things aren’t turning out the way the wanted them too. If things are not going as planned, consider adjusting your equipment set up or trying again another day. Remember, underwater photography is meant to be fun!

The post How to Take Great Pictures Underwater – 5 Awesome Tips appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Scuba tanks come in many different sizes and styles. Just like the rest of the gear, some are options are better suited for you and others are not. In this guide, you’ll learn what to consider when buying a tank. We’ll show you the best models so you can find one that fits your size, air consumption and style of diving.

For more of our top scuba gear recommendations, check out the Best Scuba Gauges.

Reviews - The Best Tanks for Scuba Diving

Faber 80 CF High Pressure

Specs

• Material: Steel

Features

• Nitrox compatible up to 40%
• Faber K Convertible Valve type

BEST FOR: ADVANCED / RECREATIONAL DIVERS

PROS: Best all around tank suitable for most types of diving

CONS: Steel can rust over time if not properly looked after

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Faber 85 CF Low Pressure

Specs

• Material: Steel

Features

• Nitrox compatible up to 40%
• Pro K Valve type

BEST FOR: ADVANCED / CASUAL RECREATIONAL DIVERS

PROS: Steel tank allows for better weight distribution

CONS: Smaller sized tanks loose neutral buoyancy towards end of the dive

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Faber 23 CF High Pressure

Specs

• Material: Steel

Features

• Nitrox compatible up to 40%
• Pro K Valve type

BEST FOR: SMALL STAGE, BAILOUT OR REDUNDANT AIR SUPPLY TANK

PROS: Steel tank allows for better weight distribution

CONS: Circular tank bottom so can’t stand on its own

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Faber 100 CF High Pressure

Specs

• Material: Steel

Features

• Nitrox compatible up to 40%
• DIN/K-Type Valve

BEST FOR: SPORT NITROX DIVERS

PROS: Will give you extra bottom time if you consume a lot of air

CONS: Heavy large duty tank, more drag in the water

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Catalina 63 CF

Specs

• Material: Aluminum

Features

• Nitrox compatible up to 40%
• Pro K Valve type

BEST FOR: SMALLER DIVERS OR SHORT, SHALLOW DIVES

PROS: Light weight and small – good for children and learning

CONS: Not good for long ocean dives

View at Amazon

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST SCUBA TANKS

SIZE

The capacity of a scuba cylinder is an important consideration. There is no perfect size tank for all diving types and all divers. Pony or bailout bottles can range from 6 – 40 cubic feet. Back mounted cylinders range from 45 – 130 cubic feet plus.

The standard aluminum 80 cubic foot cylinder is the most popular size for recreational divers worldwide. This tank is the top choice for dive shops and dive resorts because they can buy them in bulk for cheap. 

The smaller 63 cubic foot tanks are a popular choice for students who are just learning to dive. This size is also attractive to smaller adult divers, kids or people who tend to do shallow or short dives.

If you consume a lot of air and want to increase your bottom time, it’s common to dive with larger tanks. 100 cubic foot or even 117 cubic foot tanks are good options for this. These tanks are also popular among sport nitrox divers who stay at depth for longer periods of time.

MATERIAL

Scuba cylinders are made either from aluminum or steel.

Aluminum cylinders are negatively buoyant when full and positively buoyant as the diver consumes air. Being positively buoyant towards the end of the dive can make the safety stop a challenge. A diver will need to use more weights to avoid floating to the surface at the end of the dive.

Steel cylinders go from being negatively buoyant when full to either negatively buoyant or neutrally buoyant when empty. A diver using a steel tank will need to wear fewer weights. Steel tanks also tend to have a higher fill capacity.

Aluminum tanks are not as sturdy as steel ones. Aluminum is softer than steel which makes them susceptible to dents and damages.

The downside to steel tanks they are more vulnerable to rust in the presence of moisture. Also, they are more sensitive to improper filling techniques.

If properly maintained, steel tanks tend to last longer than aluminum tanks. Steel tanks are usually more expensive than aluminum tanks. But if budget is not a concern, steel tanks are the way to go.

LOW PRESSURE OR HIGH PRESSURE

The pressure in a scuba tank is measured in PSI (pounds per square inch) or Bar, in metric. PSI/ Bar refers to the amount of compressed air in the scuba cylinder. The pressure in a dive tank can range between 2400 PSI up to 3500 PSI (165 – 240 Bar).

Low-pressure steel tanks have a pressure range between 2400 PSI to 2700 PSI (165 – 186 Bar). Low-pressure tanks are the easiest to handle. These types of tanks are best for technical and nitrox divers who use the method of partial pressure blending to create the desired gas mix.

High-pressure cylinders are a new trend. High-pressure tanks allow for a large gas capacity in a smaller size. High-pressure steel tanks will have a pressure range between 3300 PSI to 3500 PSI (227 – 240 Bar).

A drawback of high-pressure scuba cylinders is that they require more metal to maintain the higher amount of compressed air inside. This means that a high-pressure tank is typically as big as a normal low-pressure one and is also heavier.

VALVES

The tank valve controls the amount of air flowing from your tank and connects it to your regulator. The ‘K’ valve is the most popular type of valve used on scuba cylinders. K valves are the simplest of all valves. This valve has a system using a convertible insert that screws in to make it a yoke valve, and screws out to make a DIN valve.

If the tank valve is exceptionally hard to turn or is loose, it will need a service. It is also good to check that valve tank connection for leaks. The best way to do this is to submerge the tank in water and check the connection area for bubbles. If there are bubbles, it means there’s a crack in the tank thread.

OXYGEN COMPATIBILITY

Certain manufacturers only make scuba cylinders that are suitable to use with air (20.9% oxygen). If you want to dive with a higher percentage of oxygen, such as a Nitrox mix, you need to buy a tank that is compatible with higher percentages of oxygen. The valve needs to be oxygen compatible as well. For a tank to be oxygen compatible, it needs to be oxygen cleaned and serviced by a trained professional and labeled as such. 

The post Best Scuba Tanks of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

ASK YOURSELF, ARE YOU FIT ENOUGH TO SCUBA DIVE?

Diving is a physical activity, so it’s important to maintain a good level of physical fitness. Every diver should have a standard level of cardiovascular, aerobic and physical strength. If you are wondering whether you are fit enough to dive, ask yourself these questions:

• Are you capable of a long surface swim?
• Are you strong enough to swim against a current?
• Are you fit enough to help a buddy in an emergency? (This may entail carrying your buddy to shore or back on the boat).

Are you unsure about the answers to these questions? AlertDiver has an excellent article that can help you test your dive fitness level.

It is crucial that divers perform other physical activities to keep fit. Neal W. Pollock, a research director at DAN, recommends divers to keep active daily. The goal is to be fit enough to dive and the extra physical demands needed to deal with an emergency situation.

Swimming is a great way to build up cardiovascular endurance, leg muscle and comfort in the water. Gary Hall, a former US Olympic swimmer, he gives some great advice on that will help you to prepare for your next dive vacation in his article, Swim Training For Scuba Divers. He emphasizes to do swimming workouts that focus on your legs as leg strength is crucial for diving. He also suggests to practicing swimming with fins on.

There are benefits to staying active – better air consumption and delayed exhaustion. You’ll be able to dive more and maximize your dive time.

WHAT HAPPENS TO YOUR BODY WHEN YOU DIVE?

Humans were not built to be underwater for extended periods of time. It’s crucial to have a basic understanding of what happens to your body during a dive if you want to keep safe. You learned the basics of diving physiology in your open water scuba course. Having trouble remembering? Here’s a video to help refresh your memory.

VIDEO: THE EFFECTS OF UNDERWATER PRESSURE ON THE BODY

Understanding what happens to your body underwater will help you make better decisions. It will also increase your safety and comfort during a dive.

This knowledge of diving physiology is crucial in helping diagnose dive-related injuries and sicknesses. Being able to recognize early signs of Decompression Illness and knowing the basics of how to treat it, can mean life and death in some situations.

ARE YOU AWARE OF YOUR DIVING ENVIRONMENT?

Dive sites vary in difficulty and conditions which means they can change from one day to the next. It’s important to know the best diving conditions for your desired dive site. Before you go out on a dive make sure to do the following:

• Use Windguru to check the weather. Know the tidal conditions, currents and surface conditions of the dive site.
• Inform yourself on local dive laws. Do you need to dive with a dive flag or not?
• If diving on your own and not with a certified dive shop, make sure you know all the local emergency numbers. Where is the closest hyperbaric chamber? Ensure that you have your dive insurance policy number, medical information and emergency contact information ready.
• If diving with a guide, make sure you listen to everything he or she says, no matter how experienced you are. Make sure to follow the dive briefing and stay on route. Be aware of things you need to watch out for.
• Always be aware of your surroundings and what’s happening during a dive. Check your pressure gauge every few minutes and always be aware of where your guide and buddy are.
• Never attempt to dive in an environment that is beyond your training and qualifications. Know your limits. Penetration wreck dives, cave dives and deep dives all require advanced training.

DID YOU DO ALL THE PRE-DIVE SAFETY CHECKS?

Make sure to check your gear before the dive. If you haven’t used your equipment for a few months, test it in a pool before you head out on your dive trip. Check for bubbles and leaks in your BCD. If any piece of equipment needs to be serviced, get it serviced.

If you’re diving with rental equipment, familiarize yourself with your gear. Make sure you know how to release the weights in case of an emergency and know where the BCD dump valves are.

According to DAN, 15% of all dive fatalities are equipment related. These accidents occur because divers don’t know how to properly use their equipment. You should be comfortable with using every component of your equipment.

Do not underestimate the importance of the buddy check! PADI’s “BWRAF” acronym for the buddy check is a quick and easy way to remember what to check for before diving:

B = BCD. Inflate and deflate your BCD.

W= WEIGHTS / WEIGHT BELT. Familiarize yourself with emergency releases system. Make sure you have enough weights.

R= RELEASES. Check that everything strapped on and tightened.

A= AIR. Check that you and your buddies air is turned all the way on. Check that your tank is full. Breathe through each others regulator to make sure it is working.

F= FINAL CHECK. Final visual inspection. Make sure you and your buddy have mask fins and snorkel.

When scuba diving, your life relies on your equipment functionality. There is no such thing as being too cautious.

HAVE YOU PLANNED YOUR DIVE?

“Plan your dive and dive your plan” is a mantra used by divers all around the world. It is crucial to plan a dive before jumping into the water. You need to know your depth and time limits if you want to stay safe.

During your scuba course, you will have likely used dive tables. These are notorious for causing confusion and technical difficulties. The good news is a variety of electronic dive planning equipment is available. An eRDPML – an electronic dive table makes dive planning easy. A dive computer tells you for how long can you stay at your depth level during a dive. Computers are a good tool to use in conjunction with traditional dive tables.

To be cautious, plan your dive a few meters shallower than your maximum depth. This allows for some contingency room. It is crucial to stick to your dive plan once you have created it.
 

The post What Should Divers Do for Their Own Safety? appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

How many times have you wanted to know your tank pressure and had to scramble all over your BCD to just find your SPG?

Isn’t it much easier to have all your life support information in one convenient place? We think so!

Air integrated dive computers tend to be more expensive than non-air integrated computers so it’s extra important to take the time to do some research before you go out on a whim and buy a new computer. Here at The Adventure Junkies, it’s our goal to help make the research process easier for you. This guide will help you figure out which air integrated computer is right for you.

For more of our top scuba gear recommendations, check out the Best Dive Computers. 

Reviews - The Best Air Integrated Dive Computers

Suunto Eon Steel

Specs

• Compass: Yes
• Mount: Wrist
• Diving Level: Technical
• Gases: Up to 10 Nitrox gases and Trimix compatible

PROS: Advanced in-dive notifications & long battery life.

CONS: A heavy dive computer & its bulky design often makes it slip around your wrist

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Suunto Vyper Novo

Specs

• Compass: Yes
• Mount: Wrist
• Diving Level: Recreational
• Gases: Air & Nitrox

PROS: Extremely affordable for a product with advanced features such as an integrated compass and wireless air integration

CONS: Bulky in size & the strap can be uncomfortable

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Scubapro Galileo

Specs

• Compass: No
• Mount: Wrist
• Diving Level: Recreational and Technical
• Gases: Up to 3 Nitrox mixes per dive. Trimix algorithm can be downloaded

PROS: Battery easily changeable, awesome readability & top notch software

CONS: Mono colored display is not desirable

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Suunto Cobra 3

Specs

• Compass: No
• Mount: Hose
• Diving Level: Recreational
• Gases: Air & Nitrox

PROS: Quick disconnect is a great feature on this computer

CONS: Accessing the different menus is not easy

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Scubapro Mantis 2

Specs

• Compass: Yes
• Mount: Wrist
• Diving Level: Recreational and Technical
• Gases: Up to 3 gas mixes (No trimix)

PROS: Nice small ergonomic design

CONS: Buttons can be hard to press and menus are complicated to find

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Oceanic VTX

Specs

• Compass: Yes
• Mount: Wrist
• Diving Level: Recreational and Technical
• Gases: Up to 4 Nitrox mixes

PROS: Slim ergonomic design for a OLED screen

CONS: Display is hard to read in sunlight

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Atomic Cobalt 2

Specs

• Compass: Yes
• Mount: Hose
• Diving Level: Recreational
• Gases: Up to six Nitrox gases

PROS: Easy to read even in low visibility

CONS: Compass is slow to load

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Suunto D6i Novo

Specs

• Compass: Yes
• Mount: Wrist
• Diving Level: Recreational
• Gases: Up to 3 Nitrox mixes

PROS: Stylish dive computer & easy menu navigation

CONS: Watch strap buckle is plastic & can easily break off

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST AIR INTEGRATED DIVE COMPUTERS

DIVING LEVEL

The first thing you need to consider before investing in a dive computer is your diving level. Dive computers are available for all types of diving levels. It is important to buy a computer that is suitable for your specific diving level and needs. There is no point in buying a rebreather compatible computer if you are only a PADI Open water diver. Not only will it be a waste of money, but it will also be complicated and confusing for you.

MOUNT SET UP

Air integrated computers come in two styles: Hose mount or wrist mount. With air integrated wrist mount computers, the connection between the tank and the computer is wireless. To access your tank information, you will need to screw on the wireless transmitter to your first stage. This transmitter then reads your tank information and sends it to your computer wirelessly.

A hose mounted computer is attached to the rest of your dive equipment and tank using a pressure hose. Hose mounted computers are bigger and heavier than wrist mounted ones.

Although there is a redundancy of information when having an air integrated computer and an SPG, we suggest you keep the SPG. Your tank information is your lifeline and it is always good to have a back up in case the computer fails.

BUDGET

Air integrated computers can range from a price of $300 to over $1000. The more expensive computers have more features such as mixed gas capabilities. Don’t waste your money on a computer that is capable of mixing multiple gases if you’re not a technical diver. Hose mounted computers tend to be cheaper than wireless air integrated wrist mounted computers.

If budget is a big issue for you, check out our article on the best dive computers that features some great options for divers with tight budgets.

GAS MIXES

Consider what type of diving you will be doing. Will you be doing Nitrox dives? What about multiple mixed gas dives or trimix dives? Will you be diving on a rebreather or open circuit?

Not all dive computers are capable of dealing with these types of dives. Make sure you get a computer that is capable of keeping up with the particular type of diving you’ll be doing.

READABILITY

Hose mounted computers tend to be bigger than wrist mounted computers. This makes them easier to read. Wrist mount computers can come in either a circular design or a TV like LCD screen layout.

The LCD screen design tends to be easier to read and has space to display information as graphics. The LCD screen display is the preferred model for most technical divers as it has space to clearly display multiple gas mixes and decompression information.

LIGHTING

With older dive computers, you need to shine your dive light on your computer to read the information in a dark environment. Backlighting is a newly added feature on some computer models. This allows you to see your computers display without having to use a flashlight. Computers that use an LCD screen also do not need a flashlight to see the information. This is useful for someone who does a lot of night diving, wreck penetration or cave diving.

NAVIGATION

A compass is a crucial piece of equipment for any diver. A new popular trend in the world of dive computer design is the integrated compass. With an integrated compass, you won’t need to where your old bulky dive compass on your wrist. If budget is an issue, it’s important to know that computers with an integrated compass system will be more expensive than those without.

The post Best Air Integrated Dive Computers of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Freediving fins differ in length, stiffness, and material, but all serve the same purpose. The long blade design helps propel you deeper using the least amount of energy.

Buying your first pair can be daunting but don’t worry, we’ve done the long hours of searching for you. One of our big goals here at The Adventure Junkies is to make your life easier when it comes to choosing diving gear. Whether a beginner or a pro, this guide will walk you through how to find the best freediving fins for you.

For more of our top freediving gear recommendations, check out the Best Freediving Watches.

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST FREEDIVING FINS

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST FREEDIVING FINS

PICTURE	FINS	MATERIAL	PRICE	RATING
	Beuchat Mundial One	Polymer Plastic	$	5.0
	Mares Pure Instinct Razor Pro	Polymer Plastic	$	4.5
	Cressi Gara 2000HF	Polymer Plastic	$	4.5
	Omer Stingray Carbon	Carbon Fiber	$$$	5.0
	Omer Stingray	Polymer Plastic	$	5.0
	Mako Competition FG	Fiberglass	$$	5.0
	C4 Red Falcon Carbon	Carbon Fiber	$$$	4.5
PICTURE	FINS	MATERIAL	PRICE	RATING

FREEDIVING FINS REVIEWS

BEUCHAT MUNDIAL ONE

MARES PURE INSTINCT RAZOR PRO

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CRESSI GARA 2000HF

OMER STINGRAY CARBON FINS

 

 

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OMER STINGRAY

 

 

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MAKO COMPETITION FG FINS

 

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C4 RED FALCON CARBON FINS

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST FREEDIVING FINS

1. YOUR FREEDIVING LEVEL

What’s your freediving level? Are you just starting out or are you getting to go pro? Remember, it’s about finding the fins that best suit you, not your dive buddies.

Beginners can stick with the cheaper polymer plastic fins. There’s no point in buying expensive custom made carbon fins when you’re just starting out.

Intermediate & advanced divers, consider a pair of fiberglass or carbon fiber fins.

2. MATERIAL

Freediving blades are either made out of polymer plastic, fiberglass or carbon fiber.

POLYMER PLASTIC FINS are the most common type of fin. Despite the low price, they get the job done. Polymer fins are sturdy and can survive bumps and scratches from collisions.

A big disadvantage to polymer fins is that the efficiency of the fin diminishes over time. Polymer plastic has a ‘memory’ characteristic. When used enough, the plastic blade will start to mold into a curved shape. Why should you care? If the blade curves, you won’t get as much out of your kick as you would if you had a strong straight blade.

FIBERGLASS FINS are more expensive than polymer fins. The main advantage of this material is that fiberglass does not lose shape over time. They are also durable and can survive collisions and bumps underwater.

CARBON FIBER FINS are premiere level fins. Carbon blades are much more efficient than fiberglass and polymer plastic blades. Fins with carbon blades have the largest ratio between propulsion and energy.

They are nice and lightweight but also quite fragile and expensive. They are responsive and completely memory free, which means they’ll stay stiff and straight. They won’t bend over time like polymer fins will.

POLYMER PLASTIC: Cheap but can get bent

FIBERGLASS: More expensive than polymer but won’t bend.

CARBON FIBER: Most expensive option but most efficient option.

3. BUDGET

Freediving fins range from $80 for plastic fins to over $600+ for a pair of custom made carbon fins.

Plastic fins = Cheapest

Fiberglass fins = Midrange

Carbon fins = Most expensive

It’s important to note that expensive fins won’t make you a better diver. A solid understanding of good technique is much more valuable than an expensive pair of fins.

4. GETTING THE RIGHT FIT

A snug fit into the foot pocket is crucial. A loose fitting heel means wasting precious energy.

Often manufacturers size fins to be big as they expect you to wear a pair of neoprene socks with the fins. Make sure you understand the sizing system, especially when ordering online. Check the manufacturer’s website to find up to date size charts.

5. SEPARATE FOOT POCKETS AND BLADE

Do you want to be able to swap out foot pockets and blades? If your answer is yes, consider buying foot pockets and blades separately.

Although this option more expensive than non-detachable systems, they can be quite convenient. This system will allow you to buy foot pockets and blades from different brands. You’ll be able to get the perfect set of fins for your diving style.

Another advantage is when you go to upgrade blades, you have the option of keeping your old foot pockets. This is a particularly nice aspect as breaking in a new pair of foot pockets is often painful.

6. STIFFNESS

Often freediving fins are available at different levels of stiffness. To determine which level is best for you, you need to consider your body type and the amount of muscles you have. A freediver with long legs will produce a weaker propulsion than a diver with short, bulky legs.

Soft Blades = Divers with weaker propulsion.

Medium – Soft Blades = Everyone

The post Best Freediving Fins of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

1. BUTTERFLYFISH, SURGEONFISH & ANGELFISH

Butterflyfish, surgeonfish and angelfish have an oval shaped and thin body profiles. This fish family is also famous for its vibrant colors and attractive patterns.

Out of the three, surgeonfish have the most solid color pattern. Some species of butterflyfish have either eye-like spots on they’re bodies or black stripes. Butterflyfish are amongst the most common fish encountered on reefs worldwide.

Angelfish tend to be bigger than butterflyfish and surgeonfish. The largest species of angelfish is the Grey angelfish, found in the Western Atlantic Ocean. This is a particularly large group of fish, compromising of hundreds of different species. Have a look at Fishbase to get a better idea of the diversity of individual species in this group.

2. GROUPERS AND BASS

Groupers are an easy fish to identify on reefs. Groupers are a big and slow moving fish. Groupers are most commonly brown colored with black dots or splotchy markings. One of the most recognizable characteristics of a grouper is the large gaping mouth.

In some places, groupers can be the biggest fish on the reef. According to the Florida Museum of Natural History, the Atlantic goliath grouper can grow up to 2.5 meters in length!

Bass have more elongated bodies than groupers and tend to be smaller. Bass like to hang out on the seafloor. Common bass species include the seabass, white bass, and striped bass.

VIDEOS: HOW TO IDENTIFY GROUPERS & BASS

3. PARROTFISH AND WRASSE

Parrotfish and wrasse are one of the most vibrantly colored fish you will encounter in the ocean. Similar to the land birds, parrotfish fish have a distinct beak-like mouth and rainbow body. Parrotfish use their pectoral fins to swim, while their tail is used for speed bursts. They inhabit tropical reefs in all of the world’s seven oceans. They can range in size from about 1 ft to 4 ft.

Wrasses are smaller and have longer shaped bodies. There are over 600 species of wrasse, with most of them falling under 20cm in length. Although the largest wrasse species, the humphead wrasse, can grow to over 2.5 meters.

One of the most well-known species of wrasse is the bluestreak cleaner wrasse. These small hard working fish set up ‘cleaning stations’ on the reef. They spend their days cleaning larger fish from parasites and other contaminants. They have even been known to mistake divers for fish!

4. DAMSELFISH AND CHROMIS

The damselfish, despite its small size, is famous for being territorial on the reef. They are often seen aggressively swimming towards bigger fish and sometimes even scuba divers. This territorial characteristic is one of the easiest ways to identify this fish. One of the most recognizable species of damselfish worldwide is the sergeant major damsel.

Similar to wrasses and surgeonfish, damselfish have one continuous dorsal fin. Damselfish can come in a variety of colors, including red, blue orange and yellow. Chromis are more docile than damselfish and have a more elongated body shape.

VIDEOS: HOW TO IDENTIFY DAMSELFISH & CHROMIS

5. BARRACUDA AND JACKS

Jacks and Barracuda are larger predatory fish and can be seen circling the reef in search of a meal. They are silver and smooth and have deep forked tails. Jacks are also commonly known as trevally. They are often seen swimming in the open blue water of the outer reef. Common jack species include big-eye, amberjack, and bluefin trevally.

Often feared by divers due to they’re ferocious features, barracudas are an unusual looking fish. The iconic elongated silver body and fearsome needle-like teeth make them unique. There are around 26 species of barracuda, varying in different sizes and colors and behavior.

It is common to encounter more than one species patrolling the reef during a dive. Have a look at LeisurePro’s handy guide on how to better identify the different species of barracuda.

VIDEOS: HOW TO IDENTIFY BARRACUDAS & JACKS

6. FLOUNDERS, SCORPIONFISH AND FROGFISH

This group of fish are bottom dwellers and have a knack for camouflage. You’ll be lucky to spot one during a dive. Flounders are paper flat like fish with eyes on top of their body. They like to bury themselves in the sand to hide from predators. The color of the skin often resembles the color and texture of sand as well, making spotting them an even bigger challenge.

Instead of hiding in the sand, scorpionfish camouflage themselves to match their surroundings. They are often found motionless against a piece of rock. They are highly venomous and raise their spines when approached. Scorpionfish have a stumpy shaped body and a slightly angled mouth. They are often mistaken for stonefish. Stonefish have a more upturned mouth and an iconic grumpy appearance.

Frogfish are excellent at camouflaging as well. They have webbed pectoral fins, which they use to ‘walk’ on the seafloor. Also known as anglerfish, frogfish use a dangling appendage in front of their face to attract small fish to prey on.

VIDEOS: HOW TO IDENTIFY FLOUNDERS, SCORPIONFISH & FROG FISH

7. GOBIES AND BLENNIES

Gobies and blennies are amongst the smallest fish spotted on the reef. They spend most of their time hiding in small crevices or holes in the sand. Blennies have small appendages above their eyes that resemble little horns. They are commonly seen perched on their pectoral fins, observing the happenings of the reef.

Gobies also rest on their pectoral fins but in a flatter and motionless stance. Gobies live on the seabed and can be spotted while resting on the sand. Unlike blennies who have a continuous single dorsal fin, gobies have two distinct dorsal fins.

Gobies are infamous for their symbiotic relationship with pistol shrimps. Gobies use the hole dug by the shrimp as a form of protection, while they act as the eyes for the shrimp, watching for predators.

VIDEOS: HOW TO IDENTIFY GOBIES & BLENNIES

RECOMMENDED READING & TOOLS

Reef Fish Identification Books

Fish Identification Cards 

WhatsThatFish.com

The post How To Identify Fish While Scuba Diving appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.