We’ve sifted through the details for you so you can get outside faster. In this article we’ll cover things to keep in mind when choosing a radio for your next trip and some of the top-rated models of the year.

For more of our top hiking gear recommendations, check out the Best Hiking Headlamps. 

Reviews - The Best 2 Way Radios for Hiking

Midland GXT1000 VP4

Specs

• Type: FRS/GMRS
• Battery Type: Lithium Polymer
• Weight: 8 oz
• Range: Up to 36 miles
• Water Rating: JIS4, splash resistant

Features

• Up to 3,124 channel options
• Five animal call alerts
• Weather resistant
• SOS alert
• Bright LCD backlight
• Includes dual desk charger, AC adapter, mic headsets, and belt clips

BEST FOR: HIKERS NEEDING A FAST RECHARGE

PROS: Comes in packs of 2, fast recharge, headsets included

CONS: Only JIS4 splash resistant

View at REI

Backcountry Access BC Link

Specs

• Type: FRS/GMRS
• Battery Type: Lithium ion rechargeable
• Weight: 12 oz
• Range: Up to 20 miles
• Water Rating: IP56, very water resistant

Features

• Water and dust-resistant to IP56
• Option for pre-set channel selections
• Glove-friendly controls
• Push-to-talk option
• Earphone jack

BEST FOR: COLD WEATHER ADVENTURES

PROS: Separate mic unit to clip to pack, glove friendly controls, separate batteries available, battery indicator

CONS: No hands-free, can’t use AA batteries

View at Backcountry

Garmin Rino 750

Specs

• Type: FRS/GMRS and GPS
• Battery Type: Lithium-ion rechargeable or AA battery pack
• Weight: 12.8 oz
• Range: Up to 20 miles
• Water Rating: IPX7, waterproof to 3 feet

Features

• Large touchscreen display
• Electronic compass with accelerometer and barometric altimeter sensors
• Active weather forecasts
• Smart notifications

BEST FOR: HIKERS WANTING GPS AND A RADIO IN ONE

PROS: GPS too, touchscreen, can use battery pack or AA’s

CONS: Expensive, low battery life

View at Amazon

Midland LXT600VP3

Specs

• Type: FRS/GMRS
• Battery Type: Rechargeable battery pack or 3 AAA batteries
• Weight: 8 oz
• Range: 30 miles
• Water Rating: JIS4, splash resistant

Features

• 36 FRS channels
• 30-mile range
• Up to 2,662 channel options
• NOAA weather scan and alert
• Hands-free

BEST FOR: HIKERS LOOKING FOR GOOD VALUE

PROS: 2-pack, 2 power options, NOAA weather alerts

CONS: No USB charge, limited range in use

View at Amazon

Cobra CXT 145

Specs

• Type: FRS/GMRS
• Battery Type: AAA rechargeable NiMH or AAA alkaline batteries
• Weight: 2.2 oz
• Range: Up to 16 miles
• Water Rating: JIS4, splash resistant

Features

• 10 NOAA weather channels
• Roger beep tone
• Call alert
• Power saver

BEST FOR: HIKERS ON A BUDGET

PROS: Inexpensive, lightweight, NOAA weather channels

CONS: No scan feature, no privacy codes

View at Amazon

Cobra CXT545

Specs

• Type: FRS/GMRS
• Battery Type: AA NiMh rechargeable or AA alkaline batteries
• Weight: 2.31 oz
• Range: Up to 28 miles
• Water Rating: JIS4, splash resistant

Features

• 10 NOAA weather channels
• VibrAlert for notifications
• Hands-free feature
• Voice detection

BEST FOR: FAST AND LIGHT HIKERS

PROS: Small with good range

CONS: Only splash resistant, button lock doesn’t disable flashlight

View at Amazon

Midland LXT500VP3 GMRS

Specs

• Type: FRS/GMRS
• Battery Type: Rechargeable battery pack or 4 AAA batteries
• Weight: 8 oz
• Range: Up to 24 miles
• Water Rating: JIS4, splash resistant

Features

• 22 selectable channels
• Up to 24 mile range
• Water resistant

BEST FOR: HIKERS WHO WANT A SMALL BASE STATION RADIO

PROS: Small and light, keypad lock, base station available

CONS: No weather channels, no privacy codes, low max volume

View at Amazon

Cobra MR HH450

Specs

• Type: VHF/GRMS
• Battery Type: Rechargeable lithium Polymer battery pack or 4 AA battery pack
• Weight: 9.6 oz
• Range: Up to 5 miles
• Water Rating: IPX7, waterproof to 3 feet

Features

• Rugged design
• Recording feature
• Ability to float
• Weather alerts
• 3 different watt selections

BEST FOR: HIKERS NEEDING WATER RESISTANCE

PROS: Replay VHF calls, Weather alerts, floats

CONS: expensive, GMRS volume is low, no FRS support

View at Amazon

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST 2 WAY RADIOS

FREQUENCIES

Most of the handheld radios use FRS or GMRS frequencies. FRS channels are free to use without license. GMRS frequencies have longer range but require a license from the FCC to use. VHF are marine channels only for use on the water. If you’re out sailing, you’ll be using VHF to communicate. Ham or Amateur radios have more frequencies and longer range but require a written test to get the license.

PRIVACY CODES

Privacy codes or “Extra Channels” are additional combinations of the 22 main FRS/GMRS channels that radio makers add to help you find a quiet place to talk. These need to be used with radios from the same manufacturer.

For example, we could decide to talk on channel 13, code 10 and it should eliminate chatter from any other code on channel 13. It’s not perfect and sometimes you can hear people on other channels talking. If the specs list anything more than the 22 main channels, they are just privacy codes and may or may not work with other radios.

RANGE

Maximum range with a radio is very dependent on conditions. The range stated in the specs of the radios will usually be the maximum range under perfect conditions, say 35 miles. Up to 5 miles is a common range for GMRS frequencies and up to 2 miles for FRS frequencies. If there is anything blocking line of sight to the other radio like trees or a building will reduce the range.

WATERPROOFNESS

Many radios claim to be waterproof but are actually just water resistant. If you are in a wet environment, make sure you get a decent waterproof rating. The IP or JIS rating will tell you how resistant they are. The higher the number the better. Many radios are JIS4 which is splash resistant. IPX4 will be splash resistant as well whereas IPX7 will be waterproof to 3 feet.

BATTERY TYPE

Some radios use Lithium-ion batteries which will be better in the cold. Some have different options to use either a battery pack or AA batteries depending on the situations. Newer models can charge through a USB power pack or solar charger. Think about what conditions you will be in and how you want to charge your radio. You might even consider getting a solar backpack to make sure you’re able to recharge while you’re outdoors.

BATTERY LIFE

Battery life can range from a few hours to a few days. How long will you be using your radio each time? Can you take extra batteries or battery packs?

WEIGHT

How much can you carry in your pack? You might need to stick with the smaller lighter radios that might not get the range or battery life as the larger units.

NOAA WEATHER CHANNELS & ALERTS

Most radios these days can use the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) weather channels to get updates on local weather. Some will alert you if severe weather is heading your direction. Look for NOAA weather alerts if you want to be notified without having to continuously monitor them.

MULTI-USE UNITS

Some units have other capabilities like VHF radio or GPS on them. These can be useful to eliminate carrying 2 items. Make sure the battery life is long enough for your trips while doing both functions. If you are just looking for a dedicated GPS, check out our article on the best GPS for hiking.

CELL PHONE EXTENDERS

New cell phone attachments like the goTenna plug into your phone and allow you to text other phones with a goTenna when out of cell range. You can’t communicate with anything else but if you just need to chat with friends or family it might be a simple way to go.

The post Best 2 Way Radios of 2022 appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

Not knowing how to trap that heat or get dry can make for a cold, uncomfortable trip. On of our big goals here at The Adventure Junkies is to help you have the best experience outdoors possible. In this article, we’ll go over some tips to help you sleep warmer in your tent all year round.

DRY CLOTHES AND GEAR

Moisture on your skin like sweat will pull heat from your body. Avoid this as much as possible by keeping your essentials dry.

TIP 1. KEEP YOUR SLEEPING CLOTHES DRY

When heading to sleep in your tent, have a dry set of clothes to change into. You’ll want a warm pair of socks, a comfortable set of base layers that don’t cut off blood circulation and a warm hat. Skip the cotton here, synthetics and wool wick and insulate best. Cotton pulls heat away from your body.

One of the most pervasive myths around staying warm in a tent is that sleeping naked is best. For most people adding layers of clothing will make you warmer under most conditions. Research by Liz McCullough at the University of Kansas tested dummies with a base layer and without in their sleeping bags. Those wearing a base layer were warmer.

TIP 2. KEEP YOUR SLEEPING BAG DRY

Keeping your sleeping bag dry is important. It’s your biggest defense against the cold at night. Moisture will pull heat from your body if you’re touching it. Down sleeping bags lose loft when they’re wet, reducing the warmth. Synthetic bags will retain more of their warmth when wet. Store it in something waterproof like a stuff sack and dry it out each morning.

PACK WARM GEAR

At it’s core, staying warm is essentially about trapping heat. Your jackets and sleeping bags keep the heat your body generates in a closed space, making you warmer. Better gear will keep that heat around you longer.

TIP 3. WELL-RATED SLEEPING BAG

A warm sleeping bag is the cornerstone of staying toasty in your tent. Sleeping bag temperature ratings are getting more accurate but how that feels still varies from person to person. Jason Stevenson, author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Backpacking and Hiking recommends getting one that’s rated for 10 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than the nightly low, 20 degrees cooler if you get cold sleeping.

If you’re looking for a new sleeping bag for colder weather see How to Choose a Sleeping Bag.

TIP 4. HIGH R-VALUE SLEEPING MAT

Sleeping on the ground with a good sleeping bag just won’t be as warm as on a well-insulated sleeping mat. There are a variety of sleeping mats to choose from these days. They aren’t limited to stiff closed cell foam and thin therm-a-rests any more.

Every sleeping mat has an R-value which is it’s ability to retain heat. The higher the R-value the less heat you’ll lose laying on top. Like we recommended in our How to Choose a Sleeping Pad article, you can stack two mats and add the two R-values together for a warmer sleep. Look for a pad or combo that has an R-value of 5 or more for the cold nights.

Just because a mat is inflatable doesn’t mean it will be cold to sleep on, or warm for that matter. It all depends on how much insulation is inside. An Exped Airmat Lite 5 has an R-value of 1.7 which will be lightweight, great for the summer, but cold for the winter. The Exped DownMat, with its R- value of 8, will be nice for winter camping.

TIP 5. MORE LAYERS UNDERNEATH

Sleeping on 2 mats will keep you warmer at night but it doesn’t have to be sleeping mats. Wool blankets, foil emergency blankets or spare clothes work as well. The more layers between you and that heat-sucking ground the warmer you’ll be.

PREP FOR BED

Now that you’ve got your gear, a little bit of preparation before you start counting sheep can help you sleep warm and cozy through the night.

TIP 6. HOT WATER BOTTLE

One of the easiest ways to generate a little extra heat is to make a hot water bottle. Pour some almost boiling water into a BPA-free Lexan water bottle and take it to bed with you. Make sure the lid is on tight. Philip Werner from SectionHiker.com recommends placing it at cold spots or where arteries are close the skin. You’ll also have a bottle of clean water to drink if you wake up thirsty.

TIP 7. EXERCISE BEFORE BED

A few jumping jacks or push-ups will get your blood flowing just before you zip in. Don’t do too much or else you’ll start sweating and cool down. You can also just try to change your clothes in your sleeping bag. It’s a workout in and of itself.

TIP 8. HIGH-FAT DINNER OR SNACK

To keep your metabolic furnace burning as long as you can, eat a good dinner or snack before bed.

Charlotte Austin, a Seattle-based writer and mountain guide, recommends something high in protein and fat. The slower digestion process will create some heat for you and keep you asleep longer.

TIP 9. STAY HYDRATED BUT NOT TOO MUCH

To keep everything running smoothly like digestion you need to stay hydrated. It’s harder to notice thirst in the cold weather. Draining bottles of water before bed will lead to bathroom breaks in the night though. Experiment to see how much you can drink within an hour of bed without having to get up again.

WHILE YOU’RE SLEEPING

You’re all zipped into your sleeping bag and getting out now would let all that heat escape. Here are a few tips to keep the you, and the heat, in.

TIP 10. HIDE FROM THE COLD IN YOUR SLEEPING BAG

Mummy bags will have drawstrings to pull the hood tight around your face. Some have a strip of fabric around the back of your neck called a draft tube that prevents heat escaping from around your shoulders.

Always breathing into your sleeping bag might be warmer but eventually that moist air builds up and can make things damp. Keep your nose and mouth out of your sleeping bag to breathe. It’s nicer breathing cool fresh air anyways.

TIP 11. EVEN IF YOU HAD TOO MUCH WATER

Unless you really need to get up, stay in your cozy cocoon as long as you can. If you do need to hit the bathroom in the night you might be able to use a “yellow” bottle. Holding it does take more energy to keep it warm. Make sure you can easily tell the difference between your yellow bottle and your drinking water!

TIP 12. SIT-UPS IF YOU NEED TO

If you need to get your blood moving in the middle of the night, sit-ups get your blood flowing without having to leave your sleeping bag. You’ll wake up with great abs too.

The post How to Stay Warm in a Tent: 12 Tips for a Cozy Night appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

WHY USE WALKING POLES?

Before we get into how to use your walking poles, you might be wondering why you should use them at all. Are they just extra gear to carry? Turns out there are many ways walking poles (aka trekking or hiking poles) help you hike safer, faster and farther. If you don’t have a set yet, check out the best hiking poles of 2016 for some good options and tips on how to go about buying your first pair.

1. MOVING FASTER UPHILL & ON THE FLATS

Trekking poles help you go faster on flat ground and going uphill. They let you use your arms to push forward, giving your legs a bit of a break. You’ll be able to hike farther since your legs are doing less work. Also, you’ll find you can go faster over the same distance.

2. SLOWING YOUR DESCENTS

This is one of our 41 backpacking tips for beginners. Going down steep hills, especially with tired legs or a heavy backpack puts a lot of stress on your knees and ankles. Over a long hike, that’s a lot of pounding on your joints. Leaning on walking poles going downhill reduces some of that wear and tear.

3. BALANCE IN TECHNICAL TERRAIN

Walking poles are like an extendable arm helping you balance in complicated terrain. If the trail is very rocky or muddy you can use the poles as two more points of contact with the ground. This will help you stay upright and not face down in the mud. If one foot slips, there are still three points to keep you standing.

4. MANY OTHER USES

Walking poles have many other uses you’ll see on the trail. They can clear stinging nettles or poison ivy off the trail, be a monopod for your camera, make you look larger for scaring away animals or hold up a tarp for overnight shelters. Richard Ayres, International Mountain Leader and physiology teacher writing for the BMC, adds that poles “also help in keeping your body posture more upright, which aids breathing – a useful aid to acclimatization at altitude.”

SETTING THE HEIGHT

One of the most common mistakes with walking poles is setting them at the right height. Here’s how to adjust them to be the most comfortable for you.

90 DEGREES TO START

“Firstly adjust the poles to the correct length – so that the pole handle touches the floor when you grip the pole above the basket with your elbow bent at 90 degrees,” Ayres says on the BMC. If your upper arm is straight up and down, your lower arm will be horizontal. This is your starting point of setting the length of your pole.


Depending on the length of your legs, you might want to shorten them from this height. Everyone’s most comfortable height will be different. Adjust yours until you find a height what’s most comfortable.

Most trekking poles come with three sections, with 2 parts to pull out and lock. I find setting the top section at about 2/3 it’s height works well. Then set the bottom section to the right height to bring your elbow to 90 degrees.

If you’re in the snow, remember that the end of the pole will sink in to the basket so you’ll need to make it a few inches longer.

TIP: CHECK THE LOCKS

Check that the locks are tight once you’re done setting the height. Plant the pole and lean on it a bit. The last thing you want on the trail is for the pole to collapse when you need it most.

SETTING & USING THE STRAP

The second common mistake new walking pole users make is they hold the strap the wrong way. Here’s how to use it most effectively.

When you put the straps around your hands, reach up from the bottom, through the straps, and then grab the handle. The strap will wrap around your hand and let your lean on it so your hand doesn’t slide down the handle if it gets slippery or tired.

Jeff from SoCal Hiker shows how to put your hand through the strap properly in this quick video.

Some walking pole straps are adjustable. Tighten yours as far as they’ll go and still be able to grip the handle comfortably like the video above. Loosen it slightly until you’re able to hold the handle with no problems.

Why use the straps like this? Skip Spitzer has a great answer in an article for Backpacking Light magazine, “You are making a joint by using the strap as a strong, tireless ligament. If you grip tightly, your hands and wrists will needlessly work and stress.”

Of course it’s up to you if you want to use them like this. Some people don’t like the feeling of being attached to the poles and never use the straps.

ADD YOUR BASKETS

Most walking poles come with round discs that fit onto the bottom like on a ski pole. These stop the pole from sliding into deep mud or snow. Some have ski baskets as well that are just bigger than the mud baskets. If the baskets aren’t already on your poles, slide them onto the end and screw or click them into place. They shouldn’t move at all once they’re set.

HOW TO USE YOUR HIKING POLES

Now you’ve got your straps and height adjusted and mud baskets on, it’s time to hike! Here’s how to use walking poles most efficiently.

1. WALKING ON FLAT GROUND

Standing on flat ground, you’ll have your arms at 90 degrees. Every step you take you’ll swing your arms just like you naturally do walking. Step with your left foot forward and swing your right arm forward. If you want, just start by holding the poles in your arms and watch how your arms swing when you walk.

Swing the pole forward, plant the tip in the ground and push off the ground when you step past it. The main idea is to push yourself forward with the poles, one side at a time.

If you come to a large log or rock to step over you can try planting both trekking poles up where you are going and pulling yourself up. Sometimes having one up to pull and one down to push works well.

When you pick up the pole to swing it forward for the next step, try to keep it as low as possible, just above the ground. The higher you lift the pole, the more energy you are using. If the trail is clear, you only need to lift the pole a couple inches and let it swing forward.

Keep a loose grip on the handle. Using the strap properly will help with this. Try holding the pole with only your thumb and index finger to practice a light grip. Holding the handle too tight won’t break anything, it’ll just use extra energy.

As you’re walking, make sure the tip of the pole doesn’t get caught in between two rocks or boards in a boardwalk. If the tip is caught and you pull forward, it could bend or break. If this happens, let the pole go back to the same angle it got caught and pull straight out.

2. GOING UPHILL

Shorten your poles when going uphill. Since the ground in front of you is higher than where your feet are, you don’t need the poles to be as long. Your arms will get tired reaching too high.

If the uphill section is short, you could just ignore it. Adjusting the height of your poles might take a couple minutes and you’ll just be back on a flat section again anyways.

An alternative to unlocking and re-locking the poles at a shorter length is to take your hands out of the straps and grip it below the handle. You don’t have to stop to change the lengths and you get a shorter pole. Some walking poles like the Black Diamond Trail Pro Shock will have soft grip material below the handle for this reason.

3. GOING DOWNHILL

Just the opposite of going uphill, adjust your poles to be longer when going downhill. You can also hold the poles on the top of the handles for negotiating steeper sections. Test the placement of your pole is secure before putting your weight on it.

4. SIDEHILLING

Sidehilling, or contouring, is when you hike across a hill. One side will be higher than the other. Adjust the uphill pole to be shorter than the downhill pole. For lesser angles, just grab the pole below the handle. If you are switchbacking up a hill back and forth, just switch hands with the poles as you turn back and forth to save time.

5. TESTING TERRAIN

Walking poles are useful as an extension to your arm. You can test rocks to see if they move before stepping or mud pits to see how deep they are. I’ve had rude surprises stepping into what I thought was a couple inches of mud when it was actually more than a foot deep. Mud or snow baskets will prevent the pole from sinking too deep.

HOW TO STORE YOUR POLES WHILE HIKING

Sometimes you need your hands free when you’re hiking. Climbing ladders, checking maps or taking photos are tough to do with walking poles in your hands.

1. STICK THEM IN THE GROUND

If you’re just taking a quick photo and the ground is soft enough, just stick the poles in the ground. Just don’t forget them when you leave.

2. ATTACH THEM TO YOUR PACK

Most backpacks have some sort of straps on the outside for attaching gear. Strap your poles to the side or back of your pack. This is a nice option if you won’t need them for a while. If you don’t have a kind friend to attach the poles to your pack, you might have to take it off first.

Osprey backpacks like the Ariel 65 have their Stow-on-the-Go feature. Put the tips in the loop on the side of the pack and then tighten the bungee on the shoulder strap around the handles and you have your hands free. This is a nice way to store your poles if you will need them soon after.

3. BEHIND YOUR BACK

If you don’t have an Osprey pack with Stow-on-the-Go, a quick way to carry your poles for a short distance is to slide them between you and your pack in the small of your back. It’s not terribly comfortable but it works in a pinch.

The post How To Use Hiking Poles: Tips for Hiking Faster and Farther appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.

WHY WATERPROOF YOUR BOOTS?

1. DRY FEET PREVENT BLISTERS

The first, and most obvious reason, is to keep your feet dry. Having dry feet on a hike is far more comfortable and helps prevent blisters.

2. GORE-TEX LINERS WORK BETTER

You might have a waterproof membrane in your boots like Gore-tex. Re-waterproofing helps moisture escape through that layer. In other words, letting the sweat out.

3. EXTEND THE LIFE OF YOUR BOOTS

Another reason to keep your waterproofing maintained is to extend the life of your boots. You probably don’t want to buy new boots every year. They aren’t cheap. Cleaning, waterproofing and drying your boots will keep the dirt out and the leather conditioned, keeping money in your pocket for other gear.

WHEN SHOULD I WATERPROOF MY BOOTS?

You don’t need to waterproof your boots every hike. There are 2 cases to watch out for.

Scarpa, a popular hiking boot manufacturer, recommends cleaning “whenever they get particularly dirty or when water stops beading (turning to droplets) on the surface of the boots.”

This usually means a few times per year if you are hiking a lot.

WHAT TYPE OF BOOTS DO YOU HAVE?

To waterproof your boots, you need to know what material the boots are made of. You may have chosen full-grain leather boots or lightweight fabric boots. Read about how to choose hiking boots if you haven’t got yours yet.

Each of these materials uses a different product for waterproofing. The process is the same but the wax or spray you buy needs to match the material on the boot. Here’s a list of the most common materials.

FULL-GRAIN LEATHER – Many hiking boots are made from this smooth, stiff leather. It’s probably what you think of when you imagine leather.

NUBUCK LEATHER – Nubuck is full-grain leather but has a sanded finish that gives it a furry look. It requires different products to waterproof than regular full-grain leather.

SUEDE OR SPLIT-GRAIN LEATHER – Suede is furry-looking like Nubuck but thinner and more flexible. It usually requires the same treatment as nubuck.

FABRIC – Fabric is a whole different product than leather. If it looks synthetic, it’s likely a fabric of some kind.

If you’re not sure, you can always look it up on manufacturer’s website. They may have specific information about your boot and what it is best for that type of material.

THE PROCESS: HOW TO WATERPROOF BOOTS FOR HIKING

STEP 1. CLEAN BOOTS

The first step to waterproofing your boots is to clean them. Waterproofing waxes and sprays won’t do much if your boots are covered in dirt.

Clean your boots after every use if you can. The less mileage you put on them dirty, the longer they’ll last.

Most of the time, you can wash with clean water and a soft brush. You’re just looking to get all the dirt off the outside.

When you’re going to re-waterproof, it’s time for a deep clean. Take out the laces and insoles and get as much dirt off as you can. If necessary, you can leave them in an inch of water for a couple hours to loosen tough dirt on the sole.

To get boots really clean for waterproofing, outdoor gear retailer REI recommends “running water and a specialized boot cleaner, saddle soap or, if no other options exist, a mild dishwashing soap.”

To prevent the buildup of salt and dirt inside the boot from grinding into the leather or fabric, wipe the inner liners with a damp cloth.

Now you’re ready to waterproof.

STEP 2. WATERPROOF BOOTS

Each boot material is different so you’ll need to buy the product that matches your boot. If you’ve got a full-grain leather boot like an Asola TPS 520, make sure you get a product for full-grain. For a fabric and leather combo like the Salomon X Ultra Mid we recommended in the Ultimate Multi-day Packing List, get a fabric and leather product.

You might have some options here with the waterproofer you get. For example, with full-grain leather, Grangers G-Wax provides good all-around waterproofing and breathability. Or you could opt for their Paste Wax for better waterproofing but less breathability.

If you are worried about changing the color of your boots with a wax or spray, Gear-Aid maker McNett says to “test a small inconspicuous area first.”

For a wax-based type of waterproofer, warm it up with a hair dryer and then wipe on your boots. Make sure to cover the entire boot. Wipe off the excess and then buff to a shine if you want.

Some waterproofers are water based like the creams and sprays from Nikwax. For the cremes, apply with the applicator and rub everywhere on the boot. You can use a clean cloth to get it into the tricky parts.

For sprays, cover the whole boot from about 6 inches away. Do a few thin coats. Some products will need a second coat.

Applying on damp boots will help it soak in.

Whatever type of waterproofer you use, it’s important to get into all the seams, creases and around the hardware. Those are the spots where the material is punctured or bends a lot and are most likely to leak.

This video from Nikwax, maker of some of the most popular boot cleaning and waterproofing products, walks you through the process.

When you are looking around for waterproofers keep in mind conditioners are different than waterproofers. Some products do both. It’s good to condition once in a while but it softens the leather. Condition too often and they won’t be supportive enough.

Now that you’ve waterproofed your boots, it’s time to finish the process and dry them.

STEP 3. DRY BOOTS

Wet leather isn’t as supportive or breathable as dry leather so ideally you should dry your boots before you go anywhere. For some waterproofing products, drying solidifies the waterproof layer you want.

Salomon’s boot care instructions say to dry “without the aid of an external heat source including the sun.” Dry in normal, stable temperatures with good ventilation. External heat causes the glue holding your boots together to deteriorate.

If you need to speed things up, put newspaper inside to soak up the moisture and change every hour. You can also point a plain air fan at them.

The insoles might be holding moisture as well so pull those out to dry.

WRAPPING UP

Store your boots in a dry, well-ventilated area with a stable temperature and you’ll have waterproof boots that last you a long time.

The post How to Waterproof Hiking Boots appeared first on The Adventure Junkies.